wannabang

Dcons are rated 300 wrms, right? 8 x 300 = 2400 watts... Still looking forward to the build, though!

Can i ask why you put it as close as you can to the battery? like what does that do for you having it that close to the battery? If you put the fuse 3 foot down line from the battery, the 3 feet from the battery to the fuse is unprotected. If you put it close to the battery, it minimizes the amount of wire unprotected. Example you ask? I was young and didn't know any better. I found a perfect spot to mount my inline fuse holder on the firewall. Well, the wire going down the fender melted and dead shorted to the body and smoked the wire. Luckily it didn't blow up the battery. I think most MFG's I've seen spec it to be within 18" of the battery. I just shoot for as close to the battery as I can get. okay i was just curious because i have mine the whole way up by my amp. but i dont have it any where it can get hot and melt. so thats good. it was a more convient spot that we found plus the wire im running isnt very flexible Meh... his wire didn't melt because it got hot... well, I guess it did, but it wasn't just temperature. If I can't find a convenient spot with 12 inches of the battery, I just let it float there. I'll be getting two more fuses, one for the front battery, one at the back battery to the front, and another on the back battery to the amp. Unless someone thinks that's overkill.

Got another coat of chrome on after sanding with 150, 220, and 300 grits. Tomorrow, I'll being doing another 300 grit sand-down and coats until it shines, then a clear coat. I got the power cable ran today, got about 5 feet left over! I ran it under the car so tomorrow I'll just be tying it up. I still need to run the RCAs and remote wire, but the trim panels are being tough. Got the hinges, too, so after those go on, the floor should be pretty quick to complete. Then carpet. Thursday, I'll be tinting the fronts 20% with Llumar, and if I don't need the pain killers that day, I'll be able to work a good 5 hours on the project. Monday's looking like a realistic goal if everything is here by the weekend (minus the carpet)! I have a feeling I waited a tad long to order the sub... More pics tomorrow!

Thanks for the update.

http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/xs-power-556-i-bar-multi-top-post-terminal-adapter-top-only.html I've been told these are on backorder from XS. Does the SSA Store have any ready to ship?

Try Jegs out of Ohio. Says they'll ship on the 22nd...

You won't fry anything. My post was straight from an XS Power rep. He said something about the flooded battery balancing out the amps capable from the AGM, which isn't altogether good, but it won't "fry" anything.

You shouldn't mix AGM and flooded batteries. Current draw is a better way to see what battery you need.

This.

Cool! I look forward to seeing it. x2

I believe the rule of thumb for aeroports is 10-14 sq.in. of port/cube. slot is 12-16 sq.in. You should be fine.

Quick check up on the thread before I leave. Tape up the edges before gluing?? Never done so... What's the purpose behind that? The tape you see was there to prevent the paint from hitting anything other than the port. It doesnt bond as well. I'm not sure if its because the paint prevents the glue from soaking into the wood or if its because the glue just won't bond to the paint due to composition. Kinda like oil and water. Ahhhh, I see. You're saying if I'm painting prior to gluing tape up the edges I will glue. I did, sir, except for the 45s' area in the port, but I'll be sanding that away and putting the 45s in before I get this second coat on, so it should be fine.

I loved the idea of kerfing, but since I was tight on time, I skipped it. I just use 45s inside the box. Not as efficient, but they work. Check out the AQ750 ($199), it's 750 at 1 ohm @ 14.4 volts, and if you're not running 14.4 volts, no worries, it'll be fine, Still, you should be modest with the gain, always. Woofersetc.com has a SAZ-1000 ($299) which would be a perfect match for the one SA-12 @ 2 ohms. I'm in favor of the slot port, as well, don't be afraid to do some math and make sure that port is perfect to eliminate as much noise as possible. Good luck with the build, my man!

Keep it up! Congrats, as well!!! Personally, I cut out caffeine and replaced what I eat often with organic items (grass-fed beef, cheese, peanut butter, jelly...). I find myself feeling better with more energy and I don't depend upon caffeine to get through the day anymore. I completed Insanity last month, which was insane, but it did what it was supposed to do. Dropped weight and toned muscles I didn't know existed, so if you're looking for something a little easier than convincing yourself to go for a run and life weights or whatnot, I loved insanity. You always felt the intensity and it gives you a real easy way to track how well you do. Also comes with a food guide, which I didn't use, but nonetheless it's awesome.

So if my amp is fused for 150A and my Alt puts out 150, a 150 amp fuse is too small with 1/0 gauge.....? Ahh, just read Impious' post. So I'm fine, then... right?

I had the same problem recently. Ended up getting an XS D3400 and an XP950. Hopefully it will be enough for the system. If it's just dimming that you're getting, than I'd assume a bigger starting battery would be all you need, but others should chime in. XS is definitely awesome and were super quick to reply to my emails.

Question for everyone. When installing my second battery, do I need a fuse at the starting bat, at the rear bat from starting bat, and from the rear bat to the amp? 3 total fuses? And should I make them all 150 amps if that's what my amp draws? Knu has their Konfused model (KNI-11), and I was planning on getting two of those if I need three, since I already have one of the cheaper ones. Which location could I get away with putting the non "high-current" fuse at?

Love the ride, my friend.

I've been contemplating doing this to the grille, and chrome interior pieces on my car. My wheels are a gunmetal-like color already, so the chrome kinda looks off. Does it peel off easy, or is it like a window sticker or would I need a hair dryer and lots of patience, cuz my grille is relatively large?

Quick check up on the thread before I leave. Tape up the edges before gluing?? Never done so... What's the purpose behind that? The tape you see was there to prevent the paint from hitting anything other than the port.

Relatively productive day, today! Lots of pictures taken! Got all those after-thought measurements done, worked around the obnoxious metal pieces around the spare tire, and this is what I got! The corners nearest the plastic were rounded to prevent scratching, but they aren't in contact with the plastic, and the spare has room to be wiggled out! Got all the pieces for the floor ready to be attached and now I just need to get the hinges and carpet in order to finish the floor. I'll be installing some wood pieces around the spare in the open areas to serve as a brace for any load I put on the center piece. Then I got to the box. Didn't make it too far, but got the one of the port walls in and painted. I'm going to go with chrome, since there's no black on the car, and the box will be tan with a stained baffle, so I didn't think blue (to match the outside) would look too well. I've got a couple chrome-like pieces inside the car and the grill compliments it, so i thought it'd be kinda cool. First coat: Tomorrow I get my wisdom teeth taken out, so it will definitely be a day off for me. More progress on Tuesday. Hopefully I'll be done by next Monday. I'll be wiring the car as soon as I get that floor done.

My progress on the box: ^^Those are the boxes that go under the floor, if you recall the SketchUp model. I threw them in to see how they'd fit and line up with the board that goes along the back for support. ...got some more measuring to do, but it fits. The spare can still squeeze out. ..note to self.. When drilling pilot holes, especially from underneath the project, never put more than half the projects weight off the edge of the table. ...the result of the drop: ...and a nice-sized bruise on my ankle... And I began the box: Not bad for two hours. Now for a great dinner downtown with the girl. More to come, y'all, stay tuned.

Thanks, man! So, everyone, tell me what you think of this idea I had, today, while cutting the pieces. I had half a sheet of sandply leftover, and, after some math, found out that I could cut the rest of the box without using the second sheet of MDF if I did the 2nd baffle out of plywood. Save's me $33 (poor, college kid... especially after buying the car). So, we have some leftover stain from our hardwood floor, and I thought it would be cool to rattle can the box to match the tan interior, and stain the plywood baffle. Thought it'd be really different and look really nice. I'm just concerned about the strength of the wood after staining the baffle...

Cops where I'm going to school are picky when it comes to tint, but my car will be parked outside and quite a distance from my dorm, so I was looking for something that wouldn't draw too much attention from cops, but still have the benefits. Since the factory tint is 20%, it makes sense to just add 20% on the front. The one shop that said I couldn't get in until the end of the month also sells a clear tint that offers UV protection and heat reduction, so I may add that to the back if I find some extra funds. As for now, I have some of the pieces for the box cut out, and might get to assembling some, tonight. The pouring rain sucks.

Yeah... I was thinkin' 35% would be too light... I just had hoped to get it done before college. Know anything about Ziebart? They use their own tint, and have a 26% film?