wannabang

Cool, walmart has that for cheap. Let's see what happens. Apply and hope for the best! I have to run the ground wire and plug everything into the amp, so if the shoe goo works, I'll be bumping by tomorrow. Thanks, Stefan. No problem. It shouldn't take much, I would apply a light layer, let it dry for 45min, then do again once or twice. Also for future reference I believe silicone shares a chemical with a lot of the foam surrounds, so when applied it can deteriorate the foam. Box looks nice by the way, I really like the mounting panel's finish. I definitely noticed that when I looked at all the adhesives WalMart had. I picked one up that was foam-safe, but it was labeled "Crafter Adhesive" or something, so we'll see how it holds.. Also, thank you. Looks good in the car. Next weekend I'll probably have some more free time to get some more done. Damn, I guess it's good only going to school 20 minutes from home.

Cool, walmart has that for cheap. Let's see what happens. Apply and hope for the best! I have to run the ground wire and plug everything into the amp, so if the shoe goo works, I'll be bumping by tomorrow. Thanks, Stefan.

Everything was going great today... ...and yes, I do realize I have to paint that one edge... OH THE HUMANITY!!!! ...the story is, my screwdriver actually broke in half (shaft away from handle), not sure how, but the shaft went through the cone... **ehow says I can fix this with some silicone sealer. Anyone think I should try that before ordering a recone kit?

The sub arrived at the house yesterday, and my dad graciously finished the staining for me. I'll be home to get it all put together this weekend! Thanks for the patience! (Sorry for the shitty quality. It's a screenshot I enlarged on my phone....) Should look real nice against the tan interior!

Sub's been shipped, but I start classes Monday. Build to continue next weekend.

85$!! I hope that can with Life time warrenty, and gaurentee never to bubble or fade... Yessir. Lifetime warranty, never bubble/fade/crack, and a refund if I find any imperfections within 30 days. Real nice guy. Looks good mate! cheers Gracias, amigo! That empty hole has since been filled with the wire that will run to the amp.

Small update: Got the batteries in, and the floor carpeted with the exception of the front, beauty panel. The back piece will have to be carpeted with two different pieces. The box's baffle has to be stained again and all of it painted for it to be completed. The sub won't be here in time, so I won't have it totally completed until it does (should be within a week).

Sorry to revert to topic back to the build, but I've got some pictures and a piece of the floor carpeted. Also, everything, but the sub, has arrived in the mail! What I have done of the box so far. Port is nice and shiny.. maybe too shiny for the Galaxy S3 camera to focus... Cut out the hole, too. And to decide which stain I wanted for the baffle: I ended up picking the one on the left. I figured it'd set off the chrome and give contrast to the tan the best. The lid in the floor has been carpeted. The pieces on the side have not been put on, but they're there to hold the carpet's sides down and show y'all how it should end up going together. And all that came in the mail! XS Power i-bar 556 posts, 6 feet of ground wire, and two more fuses! Oh, and the XP950 came in, too (not pictured). That thing is super compact. Car should be wired and the floor should be carpeted by Monday. Looking forward to getting this all done, fellas!

It can work. I'd run it at 2 ohms, if you haven't already bought the sub, but I'm not you and I don't care much about the amount of power. I'm going to be running the Icon (1250 watts) on 1100 watts, but I've done systems that give the subs a couple hundred over. Just be careful with your gain, man.

It's an arbitrary number-not based on anything. I'd suggest he buys an amplifier that fits his budget, made by a reputable company, and is advertised to handle the impedance point he wants to wire the coils to. Whether his budget allows for a "1000w" amp or "2000w" amp, seems null to me. I would agree with Mr. Stephan here. Keep within your budget, and find a decent amp that can handle the wattage rating at the impedance you're running at. If you're not trying to hit numbers, your ear won't be able to pick up much of a difference. If you're going to go more than rated, make sure you do it properly, and you're set.

Get an amp that fits your budget, and if not too much over the RMS of your sub. Without the coil configuration, we can't help much with the amp. In cars, I've found subs to be louder facing back, but my cheap-ass faced it forward to eliminate some of the trunk's rattling, to avoid buying deadener... although, I know in my last car, with a trunk, an 18 wouldn't fit vertically... Either way it will get loud.

I got some more progress done on the floor, just gotta screw all the pieces together, now. The box is half-caulked, and just needs the baffles, and the carpet is waiting to be put on. I picked up the last role from O'Reily's. They were the only place in town with tan. LoL.

I'm trying to avoid shipping at this point, but I may have to hit that up if this Kraco stuff doesn't work out, or I decide not to use black...

Thank you! It's become a tad stressful with my deadline being 1 week. Hopefully everything will be here Monday and I can get the carpet somewhere local.

Finished the paint, port, and got the top put on. Still need to get some carpet for the floor. Anyone have any recommendations, local stores, that sell automotive carpet, or something thin that will pass for it? I'll have pictures tomorrow.

Gotta go get some more spray paint, but before I left, I got the hinge for the center of the floor on, and the back beauty panel. There's going to be a small gap, as you can see, but it should be a big deal. Need to find carpet, and make the rounded piece at the end... This false floor thing is challenging when ya got all these things you want under it...

Cool, I'll have to look into that. Thanks, fellas.

I have a Ford, and there's this feature that doesn't shut the radio off until the doors open. Also, I will be going to school this month, and campus is small enough that I won't be driving the car unless I'm heading to the mall of back home. From what I've read, an isolator seems necessary in my case (D3400 and XP950), but I'm not sure if the diode-style will be practical, and if it's safe to have an isolator rated for higher amps than the system draws.

Just got home from getting the windows done. Pretty happy. He recommended 28%, but I got 18%. For $85, not bad. All pictures taken with sun directly overhead/slightly toward front of car. I'm not sure that it's actually darker than the rear, as it looks in the last picture, but the hue is definitely different. I'm happy.

Mine doesn't time out that I know of, but the lights stay on for ten minutes when the doors remain open for longer, unless I lock it.

I think I'll just modify my habits to opening the door when I turn the car off. LoL

Got the power wire run under the car today. Since this is the first time I'll have ever run wire under the car, I'd like to know if I ran it safely. Besides the obvious of avoiding the exhaust, is it too close tot he engine? Or Should I avoid zip-tying it to the fuel line? The wire is always above the lowest point of the car and the only time I can see it getting hot is on its way down from the battery and when it goes up through the grommet, since that's when it is closest to exhaust or engine. Has a good 4 inches of room, though.

Well, the car plays the radio until the doors open, and I don't always immediately exit my car. Also, it will sit for lengthy periods of time outside since I'm going to college and campus is walkable. Y'all know more than me, though. LoL.

I intend on sanding plenty. I want it to shine! I used a rattle can clear in shop class a couple years back and it worked fine. I'll avoid the ones you mentioned, though. ..My grandpa's got a gun, but I ain't sure I wanna get into all that. I'll probably just use the extra clear we have around the house. Thanks for the heads up. I don't mind knowitalls, they help me learn. It's Krylon Premium Original Chrome. From Wally World. If it ends up bad on the test piece, maybe I'll just skip the clear coat. How do you know...??

Use the Torres Box Calculator. It is my favorite, hands down, and super easy to understand and use. The port length will be what determines your tuning frequency, and the height and width will determine you port area, generally speaking. http://www.mediafire.com/?w40an4l5ygh56g8 Lemme know if that link works. I got it off SMD's forum. Or you can google it.