wannabang

Would airflow remain efficient if I made the slanted edge completely vertical, essentially make the box two different size rectangles, one on top of the other?

Two tens means I'm definitely going sealed. I'll look into it. I thought about just sealing the icon 15 I have, but I'm also trying to make my spare more accessible. Currently, I have to unscrew the box, disconnect all amp wires, and rock the box onto it's back (since it's too heavy for me to remove myself). These boxes on the side would make it easier to access the spare, and allow ample luggage/sitting room, and a little space to put the seats down and haul bigger objects. Overall, it gives me back the features of having an SUV. The only think now is, where do I mount the amp?

1200 is easily fine. I have mine on about 1200, ported. The thing slams, and I love it. Been thinking about going sealed for some more space.

Rick, that's what I assumed. I wish I could DMM it, but the car isn't in my driveway and the friend doesn't own one.

After my friend pulled his equipment out to get to his spare tire, he replaced it, but could not get the fuses to stop blowing. The way the story has been told to me, he has hooked everything back up the way it is supposed to be, started it, blew the fuses, bought new fuses, blew those, too. What am I missing here? Or what isn't he telling me? Anyone have a solution?

Oh, forgot to mention, these are the fuses in the amp we are talking about.

Obviously as small as possible within the subs requirements, but he's set on the Type-R. So, simply an LOC and find some way to bypass the sub limiter?

I haven't installed anything in a year, but my buddy needs an experienced mind. He's got an eighth gen civic si, and would like to replace the stock, 8" sub. He's up for complete removal, since he knows he won't get a true subwoofer-type sound without an enclosure or sealing the trunk. Now, it needs to be extremely stealth (carpeted box, all black, tucked in the corner, no visible wires anywhere). He's dead-set on a type-r and an alpine 500W amp to match. I'll set him up with some black knu wiring, too. Two options I've thought of for the box: -Sealed, cut to the shape of the rear, side of the trunk, carpeted, with a grille. -bandpass, carpeted, ported up and toward the center of the trunk. (not much familiar with bandpass, nor am I sure this is a viable option). Now, his civic, I guess, has a volume cap on the stock sub, so we cannot use the subwoofer speaker wires to run a line-driver from. He's willing to give up his rear speakers for this, but that's a lot of re-routing wires, right? To do so, I would need to run the speaker wires from a rear speaker to the back, and hook those up to the line-out driver, right? Anyone know if there's a bypass for the volume cap on the stock sub? Thanks for any help, y'all.

I want him to look at the SA-8. He wants to keep it as small as possible. What would I be looking for on the DMM if there is factory filtering.

I'm pretty handy, I'd say. I can figure out just about anything to do with wiring and taking apart the interior. Unless we're talking aftermarket processors and whatnot, I'm not sure what his budget will do. He's entirely against changing his head unit, and we used an LOC last time (that's what it's called, thanks) and the volume cap superseded it. I figured the rear speakers would have some sort of filtering, but I guess I'd assumed with all the filtering going on that the HU would be smart enough to allow me to turn it all off. When we cranked the gain on his last system, it just sounded like poop and wasn't even entirely loud. How would these processors help? I'm new to those.

Sounds like a grand master plan! Clean whip. That Xcon should do it in well. Welcome!

Apparently, the mod bug bit too hard. Got "The Stubby" antenna from Craven Speed. Can't comment on the radio reception, yet.

Howdy, y'all. I purchased a 2008 Ford Edge last month and had equipment picked out for it before I even bought it. I've done a few builds in the past including a few enclosures for friends and I'll be heading off to college this fall and this will definitely be an ongoing build log, but I hope to have the sub in by the start of school. I've recently been picture happy... Anyway, onwards! The plans: Audio: Head Unit: Pioneer AVH-P2400BT Speakers are staying stock... for now. Amp: Cadence ZRS-7500D @ 2 ohms Sub: SSA Icon 15 Electrical: I'll be needing a second battery or new alternator. I'm thinking an XS D3400 as a secondary. For now, TBD. Other: Lighting: Turn signal, interior, and reverse LEDs. Contemplating HIDs... Interior: Already have WeatherTech Floor Liners. Windows: I'll be tinting all the windows minus the windshield. I'm pretty set on 50% over the factory privacy tint. Fronts could be 35, 20, or 15. TBD. I'll start with pictures of the car: Before purchase. WeatherTech's, before install. ** I know, the bottom one is backwards...** In car. Guess what came in today! Free, two-day delivery! I am so pumped. If the weather gets nice, I'm off work Saturday, so I'll get to installing this and a buddy's speakers (and hopefully his HU), too. Tune in, get comfy, and give advice!

Thanks, guys. Good idea on the hand-around-bit, Parrish. I had originally went to the store to buy the flex loom, coincidentally, the guy I asked where I could find it also installed car audio! He had said that the few bucks I'm spending on the product wouldn't do much. He'd had his run outside for years with no protection and no problems. The car's high enough off the ground, and threaded through enough places that I'm not all that worried about it. You read the whole thing?! Damn! Sen, I found Dan, of DTBL, on fordedgeforum and many owners use him for the interior and exterior lighting. I will definitely be doing vleds when I find something I want that Dan doesn't offer, more specifically a switchback turn signal LED.

Got the rest of the interior LED'd. Thanks to Dan at Daytime Britelites. They're very bright. Got some cool stuff hopefully for this summer. Think I'm gonna chill on the mods a little and save some cash.

I'd think it could easily be done! Underseat builds I think are fun when they're simple and quick. For the two I put together, we put grills on the subs and a couple washers with the screws to boost the seat up just enough. Shouldn't be hard at all. As for equipment, just make sure the everything fits and measures up to the rest. The choices are yours.

First, determine your budget, and then how much space you want to sacrifice. If you're just lookin' for a little bang, I've done a couple truck systems under the ex.cab seats for ~$500 with a couple low-end, 10" JL subs in sealed boxes, and 500 watt Alpine amp, alpine HU, and some decent 4 gauge wires.

I have a Viper 5704. Love it. The alarm alert is noticeable and the alarm is sufficient. No problems, and looks great. The fob's been well. Got it installed mid January and the first time I had to charge it was last week. Pretty good, I'd say.

It was pretty cheap, but gave me a lifetime warranty against fading, cracking, and bubbling, so I'll just have it replaced if it gets to that point. Saved me ~$30 on just the front two windows.

I have SunTek on my windows. Pretty good looking stuff and it's the only film the guy I had do mine has used in his 20-some years. He is also the guy the state uses to tint their government vehicles in the area.

It's been quite awhile since I've posted here. I figured I'd update how the car's doin'. I need to open the dash to find out why my steering controls won't work, but other than that, everything's great. Have been in touch with a guy on fordedgeforum who makes custom lights for the car about getting interior LEDs. Have some Ebay ones in the map lights right now. Stock's on top, the LED is the white plastic. Living that college dorm life. Not super bright, but they work pretty well for the $5 spent. I have plans to do the rear dome light and the license plate light. Also, have a taillight mod I'll be doing over the summer, or when it's warmer.

I didn't mean to be offensive, M5. Just wanted some more experienced input into what I chose. I've heard some loud HT equipment, but haven't heard enough to determine if it's what I needed. Thanks for all the input guys. dem beats, I figured that would be the case. My roommates two computer speakers + sub are enough for most nights, but being maxed out all the time distorts the music real bad.

I'm a student at a university with 100% on-campus residence, and this means we always party in dorms. I've done a few installs in cars, but have decided to work indoors this winter. My roommates and I typically host on weekends, and so far, the roomy's Harmon/Kardon computer speakers + sub have done a decent job, but I think it's time to step it up... and give the little things a break from max volume LOL. I'd like to know which way I should start looking: PA or home theater speakers. I originally thought two towers (two full-ranges and a tweeter in each) and a sub would do the job well, but I'm not the expert. I've seen places with a few bookshelf speakers and a couple places have a couple PA speakers, and I typically like those parties better since the music's a lot louder. The parties are ragers with not much conversing LOL, and it's typical to be heard across campus (of 2800 students). Don't worry about us disrupting the town, since we're isolated on a hill, it's pretty secluded and don't interrupt the town often. Feel free to suggest a direction. I can do research for brands and whatnot, but if you wanna throw in your two cents on equipment, do it. As far as the size of the room, think a little bigger than a small apartment's living areas (kitchen + dining room). Thanks in advance!

I love my Icon. It slams and looks amazing. Enjoy yours once you get it!

M5, I guess I'm goin' with cheap garbage then. Besides, when you're drunk and just want something loud, as long as it's not distorted, it doesn't matter. Parts-express is where I'm looking for subs.