burko

Does anyone quick scope in Modern Warfare 2? I've had an HD PVR for a while and decided I'd make a new youtube channel strictly for gameplay. Some things to expect include MW2 montages/clips, "let's plays" of Gears of War 2, Mario Kart 64, GoldenEye 64, Mario Tennis 64, and just about every other popular Nintendo 64 game. I already ordered a device for capturing the composite signal coming from the N64; for some reason the composite inputs on the Hauppauge don't work with any console earlier than PS2. Here's a video I made today to give you an idea of the kind of quality I'm working with. I would really appreciate a like/subscription. I will return the favor! Watch in 720p!

Excited to see the SW get walled! Tuned in! p.s. the ticking is probably just a pokemon card strapped to the serpentine belt smacking the engine block. Easy fix...

Not going for quality. Going for fun! I'm not gonna be playing by myself.. Thank you!

I'm planning a build of 1 Fi BTL N2 18s off of two Crescendo BC3500s walled off in my truck, and I'm using the Torres Speaker Box Tuning Calculator. I'm wondering exactly what the "# of Common Port Walls" option means. I understand that it refers to how many sides of the box are going to act as sides of the port, but I don't know why the back of the box isn't considered a side of the box. I have about 52" of width to work with, so I'm looking for the port to be 50.5 inches wide, so it would span across the entire top of the box. I've been messing around a little bit with some of my options and I'm not quite sure what the option I mentioned is referring to. If someone could clear this up, I'd appreciate it. Is it simply because the "4th" wall is just an extension of the third?

This is absolutely ridiculous!! Not sure if that's your YouTube account or not, but it now has another subscriber!!

Voted!! Good luck to Andrew!

This build looks pretty cool! I've heard nothing but good reviews about the Skar subs. Good luck!

What's up fellas, recently my house was robbed and my Xbox, 42" Panasonic Plasma, modded controller, and a bunch of other stuff was taken. I could rant on here about how pissed I am, how I'd kill the person if I found them, blah, blah, blah, but I'm over it and it's time to pick a new TV. The insurance is covering everything minus the deductible, so I've pretty much got a fresh slate to start over with. I record with a Hauppauge HD PVR for fun, so I need a TV that at least has component inputs. I loved my 600Hz Plasma, but there was a SLIGHT lag, not near as bad as an LCD, but still noticeable. I remember playing on my dad's old tube set and it was perfect, but it was standard definition, so I couldn't record gameplay. My question to you guys is: Is there an HD-ready tv that plays as well as a tube television? Any responses are greatly appreciated. p.s. my GT is mC CROWNandCOKE

I see lag (or input lag) as the time between a movement on the controller and movement on the screen. I realize that the Panasonic plasmas are fairly close to no lag, but it just doesn't quite compare to the old tube sets. I may end up going with a tv similar to the one I had, as I am not into playing Xbox nearly as much as I used to be. I quick scoped, which, if you're unfamiliar with it, calls for well timed movements and shots. Input lag on any tv other than CRTs made this next to impossible. I'll probably end up going with the Panny, I don't think I'm willing to give up a beautiful crisp display for something that I don't still have much interest in.

I just may go with a Sony Trinitron CRT or something of the sort. I would really like to have absolutely lagless gameplay.

Just a heads-up, it could've been mentioned and I missed it, but the RE box calculator is NOT correct. It tunes a little on the high side. I would download the Torres Box Tuning Calculator, as it's tuning frequency is correct. You might also look into the new FCON that SSA is producing! I think they would be perfect for this build! Good luck!

OP, the BTL will be fine in 7 cubes. Get in contact with one of the guys that build boxes on here and they can give you a quote, like Audibel Customs or Argent Audio

dont mean to sound like a noob.... front stage???? Just kiddin man, the front stage is speakers other than the sub/subs.

With just 2 batteries on 2000 watts you will more than likely have some voltage drop. Seeing as how your truck is a 2500, it probably has a pretty large alternator, so I could be wrong. I'd do what Ohjay said and install it first. If your voltage is dipping when bass kicks in, another battery wouldn't hurt. Also be sure to do the big 3, it helps a lot.

Shit is crazy man!! Nice setup!

Thanks for the replies everybody, I'm glad I figured it out. I'll probably go ahead and order 20 or so feet of black and maybe 7-10 of red so I can have some extra wire and possibly make my own jumper cables, sounds like a good idea. Thanks Ohjay!

This may be something extremely simple and I may have just wasted my time by making this video, but I'm a little stumped as to what my problem is. I saved myself a lot of typing and you guys a lot of reading by just making a video. Give it a look and tell me what you think! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YXu_Jx9_xKA Took forever to upload the damn video.

Thanks for the suggestions everybody, I took Shizzon/Sefugi's advice and figured out that my extra battery wasn't grounded properly. I temporarily switched it to a different place and it reads a lot better now. I just have to get some more wire and I should be good to go. Thanks everybody!

I hear ya on that one man. I'll give it a shot.

My wire was literally about a cm too short to ground at the place you recommended.. I have to either find another ground that would be as sufficient or order more wire. I'll take a better look tomorrow. I was so pissed/tired/drenched I couldn't even look at the truck.

Well the wire between the two batteries isn't fused.. I checked the fuse going to the alternator and it's fine.

Worked on it for 2 1/2 hours today and the only thing I managed to do is strip out the negative terminal on the starting battery and drip sweat all over the engine. Oh, Shizz: http://s742.photobucket.com/albums/xx69/burke_sellers/?action=view&current=2011-07-06_22-46-38_351.mp4

So I should go from the engine to the chassis? And about grounding to the fender.. Why would it still read correct voltage at the grounding point? Could this be causing my problem? And unfortunately I'm upstairs directly above my mom's bedroom and she gets PISSED if a mouse scurries across the floor much less me talking. I'll shoot ya a pm and we can talk tomorrow if you're available. Without a Frame ground as your starting point, you have no ground ... Yes I think this could be your problem ... and a few other small things ... yes, pm me and we can talk tomorrow ... this will be fine ... you have a AT&T phone ?? Hmm.. I have Verizon. Is that alright?