trod2902

a never said use just one of those foods as a staple, they are good choices for maintaing a steady blood sugar but a variety is needed in diet.

i posted before i saw that video and im relieved that nothing i said contradicts them lol i should clarify that some fruits are worse than others. The glycemic index is useful for comparing and determining which are better.

carb does not equal sugar Sugar is a bad carb because it digests quickly, but there are good carbs. Good carbs can be found in oats, whole grains, beans and fruits. Fruits do contain sugar but if eaten in its natural state it contains pulp and fiber which slow down digestion, thus nullifying the effect of the sugar. Quick digesting carbs, such as sugar and starch (white potato), are bad because they spike insulin production and actually cause blood sugar to drop below baseline after digested. Low blood sugar (hypoglycemia) is that dizzy feeling you get when you are really hungry. Continually spiking you insulin can cause you to become insensitive to it over a long time, which is diabetes. High insulin will also cause you to store more fat. The glycemic index is a great tool to determine the quality of carb in a food. It rates foods based on how fast they digest, lower being better. Keeping the foods below 60 on the GI consistently should be a good guideline to follow. I highlighted beans because they are high in protein, good carbs, and good fat. Plus, they fill you up with relatively little food. I just got back from Guatemala (spent 8 days) where all i ate were beans and meat, lost 5 pounds of fat and kept all my muscle. I am now a believer in beans lol

I had the same exact setup ~3 years ago and I loved it. what ohm is your BL? is it @1 ohm actually im using a stetsom 1k6d 1750W @ 2 ohm thats why im wondering if BL can withstand the extra 250W it will be fine if everything is set up correctly, as stated above

why dont you recommend the SSD? Its perfect for his budget and goals.

Dont forget SSA is also

He only has a 200 dollar budget so the dcon would be my choice. he also has 1200 watts, so i would get the sub rated to handle that. SSD is the best bang for the buck. 225 bucks for a handbuilt american 15" sub that handles 1000w rms? Great buy imo

It's amazing how much that track has changed over the years. Wonder how many people can name that track by that photo. Texaco raceway

Crap. There goes a nice sub. You've never watched the sub move at those frequencies? Its always a good idea to keep an eye on the woofer when u play a low song, especially when you dont have an adjustable ssf. I did when I first had the sub installed. Watched it as I practically played an entire CD of young jeezy and gorilla zoe. No problems. Volume @ 25. I guess it just progressively got worse. If it was in new condition when you bought it then the suspension loosened up overtime and allowed for more travel, causing it to bottom out.

Crap. There goes a nice sub. You've never watched the sub move at those frequencies? Its always a good idea to keep an eye on the woofer when u play a low song, especially when you dont have an adjustable ssf.

That box must be crap if the port is only displacing about .5ft^3 and tuned to 29 hz lmao.

dc customs can help you

It is based 100% on the cost to produce the sub -- I added ZERO dollars to cover my tooling investment in this driver (In the 5 digits dollar figure wise). Had I figured in tooling expenses and the 100s of hours of testing it would be $200+ easily. It is a pretty advanced driver in regards to assembly so MUCH more labor with spaced spiders, two triple joint rings, dual round lead wires, etc. All of these add up. I've built a few here at the shop for prototype testing and it takes me about 250% longer to build one than it does an SA-12 for reference. If you aren't in the market for a TOP of the line 8" subwoofer in terms of high bandwidth / low distortion output I would really suggest looking elsewhere -- I went all out on this design using no standard parts at all (except the dust cap). The only thing even CLOSE on the market is the JL Audio 8W7 and it is $400+ I am looking at making a third 8" in our line between the E8 v.2 and SA-8 v.2 to fill in the old price of the original SA-8 Maybe just plug the SA-8 v1 back in there But anyways, awesome driver for a great price

I think they are saying porting it through the rear deck and leaving the sub in the trunk will still cause some cancellation.

go to the store and buy it Edit: I mean to store on this website

there are several designers in the custom fabricators section on the forum, check em out!

Thats just pucking pathetic imo People are so stupid Thanks for giving it a try through

4th order BANDPASS It will work because all of the air is moved through the port, the woofer is sealed inside the box.

Hey guys im considering getting this passive radiator for my Fi BL12 TC Sounds VMP 15" The reason is i dont have room to port an enclosure underseat but i may be able to fit this. If i decide to go this route im going to design a port for the enclosure and then calculate the mass of air in that port to add the the PR, is this correct? I just want to run this idea by you guys since you all know so much

good luck getting everything worked out!

all things considered, the icons do sound like the best choice Dont forget IA, bromo just bumped those flatlynes he has for sell too

ya i was just adding that in. its not really useful info for him though because, like you said, its out of budget but it would give him room to upgrade power since its inevitable in this hobby lmao.

i think they will making 12" SP4s soon