Deto1992

Although it seems like youre set on a btl, I am going to suggest otherwise like some others have already. No offense intended, a Btl is far from a beginner's driver and powering it sufficiently will cost you a crapload of money in electrical upgrades. If you were to go with two Sa-15s on a sax1200, I am sure you would be more than satisfied. In fact, I am positive that you will be more than satisfied, assuming that you are not surrounded by audiophiles who are all running 2-3k systems. Simply put, two Sa-15s in the right box will make you shit yourself if youre not used to high output substages.

Sounds good. Thanks for the help

I just purchased two eclipsee 88120 subs in a dual chambered custom box in which each chamber is tuned to 34 hz. The subs are dual 4 ohm, so they can be wired down to a 1 ohm load together. But, since the box is dual chambered, I would have to remove the ports and drill through the divider, which I would rather not do, to achieve this 1 ohm load. If I were to wire each sub down to 2 ohms at its own speaker terminal, filling both terminals, what would be the end impedance for both drivers?

It is a hifonics brutus bxi1608d and yes, it has two pairs of speaker connections.

Alright, I'm a bit confused now. My amp puts out 1600w at 1 ohm. Does this mean that, theoretically, both subs would see around 800 watts rms?

Alright, Ill see how everything sounds with the drivers at 2 ohms a piece and if I feel like they could use a bit more power than I will wire them down 1 ohm. Thanks alot for the help. Greatly Appreciated!

Ive always wanted to trust planet audio because of their awesome prices but, in this case, I would go with the audiopipe. There are quite a few guys on the forum here that have used audiopipe successfully and will vouch for the company. So I would definitely go with the ap15001d, a much safer in my opinion.

If its for daily there is absolutely no reason to run more than 1 of the kx2500.1s. You would only be increasing your chance of harming your driver.

Is it possible to tune an amp so that an 8inch sub will act as a midbass driver? I have a kicker cvr 8 and a fosgate prime 250 and I was wondering if I could put the equipment to use and delay my purchase of midbass drivers until I have sufficient funds.

One of the nicest malibus ive seen man. Great work

ohh yeahh!

hahhah good to start the weekend with some laughss

yes they can take the extra few hundred watts without a problem just be conservative with your gain and you will be fine. However, with that being said, you should probably add some more info if you want any additional advice.

If you are set on the Q 15 thats fine; it is completely up to you. But, you are going to need to go sealed unless you want to lose low end output and efficiency with a smaller ported box.

A friend of mine recently purchased two Comp 12s. After building a few different boxes to test different scenarios, the best performances was ported at 40 hz. The drivers had sufficient output while retaining quality at the same time. Personally, I think tuning from 38-40 hz will be most beneficial. Good Luck

Looks awesome man! Keep up the good work

I do not believe that the hdc3 would play midbass frequencies with any glory. Also, to my knowledge, midbass frequencies exceed 250 hz which is the maximum LPF I can set on my amplifier. Does this mean that I would lose all frequencies above 250hz?

If your subs is in your rear deck, and it's free air, and you want to put a midbass driver in the rear deck, also free air.... that's a recipe for failure. At this point, I am running an aq hdc3 12 out of my trunk. The cvr, which is the only driver in the rear deck, would be my source of midbass. The reason I started this thread in the first place was to see if I could use the cvr as a midbass driver to save money. Depending on the output of the sub, you could actually kill the midbass driver. I had a few customers with Crown Vic's that kept killing 6x9's in the rear deck because the sub would push them beyond their limits. I also think you wouldn't hear it so well without it being in some variety of enclosure. alright thanks for the help man. Ill just wait until I can afford some midbass drivers.

haha yes it is on a baffle. It is not just bouncing around in the back of my car if thats what you mean lol.

I know the feeling. Oh well, only thing left to do now.......... go bigger and put the Yukon out of her misery. lol hahaah how much bigger can you go dude? Four Xcon 18s is not too shabby.

If you end up going with the 2 Xcon 15s, you could port them and Im sure they would still sound great quality wise. Definitely better than the hdc3s you had prior.

Sorry I missed this. The really important concept to grasp about any rattle is that it is always two or more hard objects moving and making intermittent contact. Seems obvious but keeping that in mind helps when trying to track them and that's really what you need to do to kill them. Vibration dampers, like CLD Tiles have been promoted as a cure for rattles. This approach may or may not work. It's always the indirect way to solve the problem. If it works, it works because you have successfully reduced the energy available to move the objects that are making contact. A more surefire solution is to identify the objects and either stop them from moving or put something soft between them to prevent contact. This can be a simple as tightening a bolt or screw, adding a blob of RTV silicone or lining one of the surfaces with foam. This all boils down to detective work. What is rattling? The best way to find out is to play music or test tones that cause it and then start feeling around with your hands. Does pressing on the trim panel stop it? Probably the trim panel rattling against the inner skin. A layer of CCF between the two will solve the problem. Can you narrow it down to two pieces of the trim panel? Maybe lock them down with some silicone. No luck? Try the latch handle and lock nob - could be a cable or actuator rod. I have yet to do any serious investigation but the rattling ceases when I apply pressure to door panels. I will see if I can find the true source and get back to you when I do. Thanks for the help!

Awesome work dude!

Get somee pics up mann!!

If your subs is in your rear deck, and it's free air, and you want to put a midbass driver in the rear deck, also free air.... that's a recipe for failure. At this point, I am running an aq hdc3 12 out of my trunk. The cvr, which is the only driver in the rear deck, would be my source of midbass. The reason I started this thread in the first place was to see if I could use the cvr as a midbass driver to save money.