Deto1992

dude whats with the font? Btw, you can wire each driver to its own terminal at 3 ohms a piece and the amp will drop the impedance internally to 1.5 ohms.

I actually have an Aq hdc3 12 that was in my previous setup. I ran about 1500 clean watts to the driver but was never really satisfied. However, I did not experience any mechanical issues. Unfortunatly, it seems that quality has decreased quite significantly since the move overseas so it is possible that it may just be a faulty driver. However, it cannot hurt to turn your gain down a bit and see what happens.

Nobody can really tell you exactly what the issue is. If I were you, I would not overpower the sub to the extent that you have. Try powering it around 1000watts like it is rated. Theres really no reason to expose the driver to extreme power unless you are concerned with spl numbers.

Well in this case, I apologize for the bad recommendation. In all honesty, I was unaware of the issues; thanks for the correction.

Hey thx alot for the help bro. do you know where i can buy 0 guage wires for the big 3 and about the battery should i install a h/o alt if its going to be a bigger battery For some good quality affordable cable you can go to weldingsupply.com. Also, if you truly plan on running 2500w daily, you should definitely invest in a high output alt. In some cases you can get away with holding off on the ho alt but, if you really do have $3000 to spend, theres no reason for you to wait. If you can fit it under your hood, a nice group 31 batt such as the xs d3100 or deka 9a31 is a must. A large batt such as the ones stated could probably satisfy your system for daily beating. However, additional batteries are always a plus as long as your alt can keep upp. If you dont want to dive into all these upgrades right away you could always get a smaller amp, maybe a 1500d or something similar, which will be less harsh on a stock electrical but still satisfy a Btl until upgrades are practical. I dont know how to instal an alternator and wire it up to the battery. should i buy the h/o alt and battery then get it serviced at a shop? and will my electrical components be safe with a bigger battery or will it equal out the power with the amp? one thing is i dont want a whole load of power going to my electrical components and then see it get blown up. i am up for this upgrade but i need to know if its safe to do so I myself have never installed an alt but, if I was planning to do so, I would probably just watch a couple vids, ask for some advice and give it a shot. Probably not the smartest method but to each his own. If you feel uncomfortable with such installations than it would probably behoove of you to have it serviced at a shop (hopefully they dont charge you up the ass). Also, an electrical upgrade will not fry your stock electrical components. If anything, it will be beneficial to your cars stock electrical system in total.

Hey thx alot for the help bro. do you know where i can buy 0 guage wires for the big 3 and about the battery should i install a h/o alt if its going to be a bigger battery For some good quality affordable cable you can go to weldingsupply.com. Also, if you truly plan on running 2500w daily, you should definitely invest in a high output alt. In some cases you can get away with holding off on the ho alt but, if you really do have $3000 to spend, theres no reason for you to wait. If you can fit it under your hood, a nice group 31 batt such as the xs d3100 or deka 9a31 is a must. A large batt such as the ones stated could probably satisfy your system for daily beating. However, additional batteries are always a plus as long as your alt can keep upp. If you dont want to dive into all these upgrades right away you could always get a smaller amp, maybe a 1500d or something similar, which will be less harsh on a stock electrical but still satisfy a Btl until upgrades are practical.

your links dont work

How about you take it out of the box, find a model number and do some research. How can you expect somebody to give you information about a sub when you only include one picture and no model numbers. For all we know, somebody couldve reconed any brand motor with some MA audio parts.

Get two Skar VVX 12s. From what I have heard they are good drivers and I have no doubt that they will be louder than a single mtx 9500 12. However, it always comes down to install so take your time and do it right.

Get the Btl. I cant promise that it will sound better than the xcon because it most likely wont but it will get much louder. You will definitely be pleased!

Go to the tech section and check out the ported designs for an icon 10. As far as I know, the Icon and Q are fairly comparable and a design for an Icon 10 should work with the Q.

What are the benefits of using aeroports rather than a standard port? Are there any negatives? Just trying to learn a bit more before I waste my time building a new box. Thanks for the help guys

In a single chamber, dual sub ported box, are there any negative effects of having one driver in front the port and one placeed after the end of the port?

The Fi Bl is known as a low end monster so if youre looking for a prominant low end you can place your confidence in a Bl. Additionally, 950 watts rms will work wonders with a Bl. GoodLuck

Is building a new enclosure out of the question?Its not difficult and you could really benefit from a nice new box.

In all honesty, you could run a single 500w rms driver with a 2500 watt amp as long as you have your gains set properly and you dont abuse the volume. I dont understand why someone would think that you could not run 2 Icons on 2500watts? Sounds completely plausible to me.

In all honesty, your better off saving your money and building one proper ported enclosure, whether it be your console idea or just a regular box. Two Icon 12s, in the right enclosure, will fill your cab up with bass like you would not believe. Unless you are looking for ear drum shattering bass and considering comps, I wouldnt spend the money on four Icons. Additionally, I do not know the status of the Icons at the moment sorry.

I will agree that the prices are outrageous. I do understand that they need the extra bucks to stay in business but it gets ridiculous sometimes. For example, I needed to pick around 50 ft of 1/0 gauge so I thought I would take a ride to avenue sound. Just for your knowledge, avenue sound has more than one shop here on long island so theyre not exactly struggling compared to your averga elocal shop. I get there and proceed to tell the man at the counter that I need 50ft of 1/0 for around 150 bucks. Soon after, he calls me back to the desk and tells me that he can sell me kicker 1/0 gauge cable for $8/ft , making my total $400 . I proceeded to leave the shop and he calls me back to tell me that he can get the price down to $6.50/ft just for me. Ticked off, I told him about Knu who sells quality 1/0 gauge for around $3.50 a foot. Then, as if I am completely ignorant, he begins to tell me that it is so cheap because it is not true 1/0 gauge and that Knu is skimping on their cable. Not for nothing, it would behoove of car audio shops to be straight up with their customers. I cant speak for everyone but I am way more likely to give a shop business if the employees are straight up rather than condescending con artists.

Personally, I would get the Icons. Not that the other drivers havent, but the Icons have proven to be an outstanding driver time and time again. People will vouch for both output and sound quality with the Icons. As long as they are not out of your budget, I cant see why you would get any other driver unless you just preferred a different brand.

There are several amps that we will great pushing two drivers at 1000wrms but it all depends on your price range. I do know that somebody is trying to sell an incriminator audio 20.1 in the classifieds for around 400. If I remember correctly it is rated at 1800 wrms at 1 ohm but Im sure it can provide above rated watts.

maybe i am wrong and i appreciate you bringing this up because i did not know this. but could i just set the dials all to the same spots on both amps? I really dont know to be honest, Im just starting to increase my knowledgee about electrical. I do know that if youre running 2 amps there is a dominant amp and slave; this may affect settings. Like I said, hopefully someone who knows more will help inform us both on the matter. Until then, you may want to hold off on the two amp idea just because Im sure you dont want to deal with the extra difficulty.

I understand that you are set on running two amps but it can be difficult to align the settings for both amps. I wish I could expand for you but I have only heard that it can be difficult to set the amps equally, maybe somebody who knows more will chime in.

When youre running your 1/0 gauge from alt to batt make sure you tie the cable away from your engine. If not, the heat of the engine can melt the exterior of the cable and you will be in some serious troublee. Just thought Id throw that in here to make suree you dont forget. Good Luck mann but definitely be carefull because things can easily go wrong if the job is not done cleanly.

Just find the batt in your car and see what brand it is and what model if possible. Then just search the model on any search engine and you should be able to find some dimensions.