pmureika

Have a good one!

Like it for what?Because you don't have to use your brain! And all the pretty lights.

A 25 dollar dmm would do the same thing.

I hope the new version coming out will be even better.

He didn't answer the question if they could take the power you want to give them. Without being damaged!

I agree; thats precisely why I want to know this sub limits. You're asking a loaded question though. Whether or not the sub can take 20hz at full power depends completely and totally on the enclosure design. Every driver has a rated xmax and aside from testing the only way to see that you don't exceed it at a given frequency is to model it. Keep in mind that EVERY change you make to an enclosure alignment compromises something else it does. Making an enclosure that allows full power handling at 20hz would likely kill it's response on the upper bass frequencies, or kill power handling at those frequencies, or simply hinder the output capabilities. The next question is why the hell are you worried about what it can do at 20hz? Unless you're using it for home theater you'll never REALLY have a need to play it that low in the first place. Music, even edited music, just doesn't go that low. On top of that you're modeling the enclosure as being tuned at 35hz per your original post. No matter what sub you choose it's going to unload below that and get destroyed in a big hurry. The reason I am asking is directly related to the fact that I will be tuning the enclosure at 35hz, so at 20hz it will be practically free air however I wont have a subsonic filter to avoid damage on low frequencies so if a certain song happens to have a 20hz tone at some point I dont want to worry about any damage to the speaker. The sub will have 1000w rms; and Ive had other subs in the past that handled more than 1000w rms on free air without bottoming out. I just want to see if someone has pushed this sub to those limits. I agree; thats precisely why I want to know this sub limits. You're asking a loaded question though. Whether or not the sub can take 20hz at full power depends completely and totally on the enclosure design. Every driver has a rated xmax and aside from testing the only way to see that you don't exceed it at a given frequency is to model it. Keep in mind that EVERY change you make to an enclosure alignment compromises something else it does. Making an enclosure that allows full power handling at 20hz would likely kill it's response on the upper bass frequencies, or kill power handling at those frequencies, or simply hinder the output capabilities. The next question is why the hell are you worried about what it can do at 20hz? Unless you're using it for home theater you'll never REALLY have a need to play it that low in the first place. Music, even edited music, just doesn't go that low. On top of that you're modeling the enclosure as being tuned at 35hz per your original post. No matter what sub you choose it's going to unload below that and get destroyed in a big hurry. The reason I am asking is directly related to the fact that I will be tuning the enclosure at 35hz, so at 20hz it will be practically free air however I wont have a subsonic filter to avoid damage on low frequencies so if a certain song happens to have a 20hz tone at some point I dont want to worry about any damage to the speaker. The sub will have 1000w rms; and Ive had other subs in the past that handled more than 1000w rms on free air without bottoming out. I just want to see if someone has pushed this sub to those limits. I have to call complete and total BS on that one. First of all you don't have any idea how much power you were really applying to those drivers, you didn't measure it. Even if you did the results would be dubious at best. Second, even if the sub were to take the power without bottoming out I guarantee you're stressing the spiders and surround so badly that it won't last long doing that to it. If you don't have a sub sonic filter on the amp then buy one, at least something like a Harrison Labs FMOD. You should not run a ported enclosure without an SSF no matter what driver you're using. Doing so is plain and simply asking for it to get damaged. Thanks for the good reply Alton.

Push any sub beyond it's limits and you will cause damage.

Welcome

Plug those speakers into this. http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp This will give you you final ohm loads.

So its SSA or nothing? OP if those are you two choices go with the X-10". Not that it's SSA or nothing, but I wouldn't recommend either of those subwoofers when you have a similarly-priced option that will perform better on the power he has to give over a broader range of music. I would agree with that.

So its SSA or nothing?OP if those are you two choices go with the X-10". Why?The original post is 1 x-10 vs 2 sa8 v.2

And if its at idle less then that. Search big three on here or google.

What vehicle do you have? Have you done the big 3?

I think they would be the new models because they have to be built and shipped from IA.

I would like to see who is giving the negative or positive rating! Not just letting a person vote without you being able to say something back to them!

I just think if your going to give a positive or negative rating that person should give a reason!

I give you positives because I like what what you say. Not because I disagree with your opinion. Some people take it personal and give negatives because they can!

Then do away with both. My problem is somebody can go back and give negatives on anything you said.

PM Aaron or Mark.Or email ssa.

Drive almost any sub beyond it's limits and you will may cause a problem.

Spam!

Will these really replace a battery?

Take a look at this 15 gcon.

Welcome to the ssa forum.

Sign in At the newbie area and follow the rules. You will get more answers that way. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/forum/11-newbie-sign-in/