pmureika

Are those what they call bat-caps?

We suggest setting the Low pass high because most people will not have the mids to fill between the 90-100 range. Also, if your box is tuned at around 35hz a 90lpf is perfect. It allows for you to reach from the mid 30hz - up. When it comes to how your system sounds it is all based on personal opinion but what we suggest is because we know what will sounds best to most people who are just installing a subwoofer into their vehicle and nothing else. From soundquebed:

Because you never go past 63hz doesn't make it right dude.

Aren't band pass enclosures hard to adjust the gain, because you can't hear the distortion?

I use a test tone of 60hz. The reason the sub sounds better with a higher lpf setting is you are letting it play tones that your front stage should be playing. This just makes the woofer play sounds that you would not normally hear from it which makes it sound better.

I agree with you but the factory manual says 100-125 when setting the lpf.

what do the numbers go from 20-200? If those are the right numbers just between 12 and 1 o' clock.

between 100 and 125

Look at this amp. http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/us-acoustics-mike-amplifier.html

A band pass can be loud for certain things like spl. But you can't hear distortion when tuning them. That is why they get loud and blow subs, because they get to much power given to them. It's like Thumpper said = blown woofer.

The sun is shining in Michigan.

The 170 amp will work if you don't plan on upgrading to a larger sub amp. If the 240 isn't that much more money wise I would get that one.

What size wire are you running to the amps? Is that new battery a agm type?

What amp are you going to use on your front stage? Are you going to upgrade your battery or add a second one? What electrical upgrades such as the big three and what wire size will you be using?

Congratulations on one of the most idiotic statements I've read on SSA. Only made worse by adding that you are thinking BP. Horrible idea.what exactly makes that an idiotic statement? and what's wrong with a bandpass enclosure? please share with me your knowledge, oh great one, for i am humbled in your wisdom. every bandpass box I've ever built has sounded good and hit hard, so what's the problem with them? and you came close to callin me an idiot, in fact that comment is borderline insulting, so please refrain from any negative comments like that. please, thank you. You need to think about what you said on box sizes. Because a properly sized box makes the sub sound good. Not just sticking it in any size box and it's going to sound great. Are you looking for spl or a sq build?

Don't you find the cooling fan to be loud?

Welcome !

He fixed the link so you can email him now.

If you want screw type rca's then you will be limited on what go will get for your amp. I like them to but I have used many that don't use them and have had good luck so far.

x2 I contacted them and they said another month or so.

I would take a serious look at those new SYNERGY amps that are on this website. Even the US Acoustics amps are nice and have a two year warranty. I would check out there websites and even talk to them about their products.

Then would look at a Fi sp4 series sub if you want a top rated U.S. built sub. http://store.ficaraudio.com/sp415/

Does that mean you have the amp completely off or just running at low volume? Okay

A 2000 watt rms needs 138 amps at 14,4 to put out it's full wattage. So if you have a front stage amp plus vehicle electrical draw you are way short of amps needed to run everything at full volume or even less. Run a less powerful amp and sub will not make you lose much volume or bass. As far as clean sound that depends if you can supply the amp with the proper voltage.

Do you have a green light or is it red in protect mode? The make and model of the amp would be nice to know.