jokers10

SAE-600d - Is it a 4 or 8 gauge power input? I am reducing the system in my daily driver now that I have a project vehicle. So I don't need all of that heavy 1/0 gauge in my little jetta. I will keep the big 3, but want to reduce the main line running to the back of the car. Going to use a 600d to power a single SD2-12D2 in a birch box to save a bit of weight, and lift the ass of my car a hair. The SA-10s will move to a Blazer, until I can get 4 SA-12s or 15s.

HT setups can have both Ported and Sealed enclosures for the sub stage, and the full range. It really depends on the room and the sound desired. From what I am reading, I would recommend doing a PA setup. It sounds like you want to have fun with volume. Start with a mixer and build from there. Go to Carvins web page. US made sold directly from Carvin and you will be surprised with the prices. I just found out they have a EQ/Crossover/Signal Processor/USB controlled awesomeness for $380. Make sure the mixer you get has a sub stage out, and then you can add that once you get it built.

If your overall goal is loudness over sound quality, then stick to a PA system. Carvin is the brand I tend to go to. They have some package systems that are a balance of loud/SQ, and have multiple inputs so if you have a friend who has DJ gear, they can plug into your mixer, and then the next night your guitar friend can plug in and jam out as well. You can always add a sub-stage after you get the volume you need for parties. If you want sound quality that gets loud, I would recommend building your own HT speakers. I built a pair of bookshelf speakers that I was planning on using just for my computer. They were supposed to only handle 50 watts. I haven't clamped them but my amplifier is capable of producing much more, and I have never experienced a more full sound from a system without a sub. They fill the entire house with quality sound at about a quarter volume, and fit on my desk. plus they only cost abour $150 for the pair.

After having a day to think about this car show, I want to mention that this was probably one of the worst car shows I have been too. Not because of the quality of the venue, or the cars presented, but the information that was lacking. I showed up as the doors where supposed to open as I always do so I can get more unobstructed photos, and not have to dodge too many people. There were no signs off the main streets pointing towards a car show. I walked into the entrance and there was one person working the garage door that was accepting both people and cars to be displayed. There was no posting of event happenings, like where the car audio stuff was even going to be done. I stayed here from 10 AM to about 1230, and nothing was going on, except cars still showing up as I was leaving. I only stayed until 1230 to get a demo from the AudioQ Chevy at the end of my gallery. That was the highlight of the show. One open door demo brought almost everyone from the building over to it. Just a tip for those who do events like this. Post flyers with event details. The more information the better.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/53578447@N06/sets/72157630274781774/ I didn't realize Flickr was limited now. Will find another location to share the whole set, but here is the last 195 photos.

I have some pictures. Mostly lowrider stuff. I was only there for the first 2 hours, then had to jet. I will go through them and delete anything blurred, and then create a Flickr folder for the event.

3 db is not a huge difference though. Your ear can distinguish the difference between the 3db, but it is not a night and day difference. 3 db is about the difference of 1 maybe 2 clicks on the volume know depending on your head unit.

It also depends on the setup as well. If a sub is setup with an enclosure that pounds at 400 Watts, pounding a 1000 Watts, will only sound just a bit louder. That is why when I design systems, I always choose the woofer size first, based on the amount of space available. At that point you pick the motor, amp combo that fits the budget. So why buy a larger amp if a smaller one will produce close to the same output? It is all about headroom. Clean efficiant power is where the sound is at. Stuff is gonna break if your amp has to run at full tilt all the time.

your old alternator.

I have done it in a few vehicles. Your best option is to remove the carpet, and look up into the firewall. You might get lucky and find an unused grommet, or plastic filler plate. That is what happened in my old dodge ram. I had an auto, and they covered up the hole for the clutch master cylinder with a plastic piece. Drill a hole and smoothed it out, and never had a problem.

looks like autozone has a 130A for $160 plus core. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Import-Alternator/2006-Toyota-Tundra-2WD/_/N-joisiZ93xme?itemIdentifier=729571_23521_4449_

I would have thought that there would be a bigger alternator in a V8 Toyota. I would do some research for other trim levels and see if Toyota made a high output version, because snagging one from the junkyard would be the cheapest.

Gotta go through a hole either at the firewall and run the wire under the carpet, or at the rear of the vehicle and run the wire under the car. I like using the big ol waterproof grommets. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_35298_Scosche-WPG0-10.html

Why not use a recommended enclosure from the SSA webpage to be safe? There is a tab at the bottom of their product page for enclosure recommendations, and Pre-designed enclosures.

You are going to use this in your home audio setup?

Look at lower priced amps. It is hard to start naming brands, because someone will throw a fit because you called their [email protected]@p

Careful when saying that. "Watts" are just a mathematical result of amperage times voltage. Just like "horsepower" is the result of torque over time. Not all "watts" are the same. Clean watts vs, clean watts are the same. Once you go below 1% THD you are talking about clean watts. Keep the signal clean and your subwoofer will die due to soft part material degradation faster than burning the coil. It requires a lot more coin to get a clean 2K watts on a Class A/B than a Class D. And your ear won't hear the difference.

It is just the way these SA-8s are designed. Perfect if you want to run 4 in a deep/wide low profile enclosure, but not really designed to save space if you use just one. The two SA-10s are rocking my world though. Of course once the bass bug bites, you always want more. I am now thinking of upgrading to a third SA-10, or going with 12s next time.

I have done a lot of searching and can't find anything in general to the problem I am having. I am ready to pull the trigger on the pre-order of the SA-8v2, but I cannot get the enclosure figured out. I am not looking for a pure SPL, or a pure SQ enclosure. I want to be able to listen to it at normal volumes for most music, and then dial in the remote knob when the bass is pumping on certain songs. I want a small vented enclosure with 1 D4 SA-8v2. (I want a vented enclosure because I haven't heard any success stories with a sealed enclosure) I will be powering this sub with a SAX-1200D (I know it is overkill, but I want the option to add a second or a larger pair of subs at a different time). The problem I am running into is this. I have set 2 internal dimensions, Height and Depth, at 10 inches, because I want the variable to be the width when adding for port length. This would make my internal width 12 inches to have an internal volume of .69444 cubes without speaker displacement. I am guessing the displacement would be about the same as the last version at about .1 cubes, making the internal volume roughly .6 cubes. A 1"x10" port, tuned to 30 Hz would need to be just over 47" long. This would effectively increase the width of the enclosure to almost 25 inches, if the port was run up one side of the internal structure, across the back of the enclosure, and finally double backed on the other side of the enclosure. I could live with an enclosure with external dimensions of 24.75"x14.25"x11.5." But I have heard that a 1"x10" port would cause significant port noise to possibly include whistling. A 2"x10" port, tuned to 30 Hz would need to be over 96" long. Now we are looking at a 36" wide enclosure which I am not even sure if it would fit in my trunk, and I might as well be running two SA-10s at that point. Has anyone successfully designed a box for a single SA-8v2 tuned to the recommended frequency, while keeping the structure relatively small, without the use of an external port, or passive radiator?

It looks like I can make the trip up from Altus.

Going to grab this when I get home.

That box is not bigger then recommended for the Icon 12". Op what is your budget on a subwoofer and what are your goals with this setup? This should help us give you better answers You are correct. I misread the rocommended enclosure chart.

If the tuning is right, you might be able to get away with an ICON. Box is a bit larger than recommended, but with you throwing less power to it, it will probably work pretty good.

What frequency is the box tuned to?

You could do a low powered wall for $1500 pretty easily. Four Sundown E15s on a single SAZ-1500D would be pretty damn loud. That would cost about $1000 retail for the subs and amp, and you could probably stick with the stock alternator for the 1500D. A nice 1/0 knukonceptz kit with extra for the Big 3, and building materials would cost about $500. Best bet would be to build inside the vehicle. You would be able to get the most airspace. Will this be replacing the rear seats, or behind them?