jokers10

Yeah I forgot to mention TA. Active Setups and Sound Processors go hand in hand in the SQ world.

Congrats on buying the noisest modern civilian vehicle ever sold. I have seen people spray bed liner in the interiors of their jeeps to quiet them down. Most of your noise though will come from the flat body panels, windshield, and all the gaps that make a Wrangler cool in the first place. Being able to remove the top, doors, and tilt forward the glass, makes the wrangler the ultimate beach/cruising vehicle. It is sort of like buying a john boat for the purpose of water skiing. It can be done, but it would take quite a bit of work to get it there. I would just compensate for the noise by buying larger amps and heavier speakers.

From what I have read on the subject the difference between an active and a passive setup is the crossovers. I have seen active setups using external powered crossovers like the ones from AudioControl, but the most common that I have seen lately, is using the crossovers built into todays modern amps.

You can always do it the long way if all you have is spare time. The long way is becoming a regular at a shop, and applying just to be a hand. A hand will clean and clean, and learn by watching. Then they will upgrade you to simple jobs, and once you prove yourself, you can become a normal installer. The fast track is to get certified, and do lots of installs privately and take photos of your work. From there you apply with a solid resume.

I just bought one similar to this one: Slim Voltmeter Once I get it, I will test it out compared to my DMM. The reason I went with it, besides the price, is that I want to intall it in a spot that the stinger one would not fit.

The SAZ-2500D is stable at 1 Ohm. I am sure there are those that run them at 1/2 ohm with no problems, but Jacob probably isn't going to honor a warranty in that situation. Besides the ZCON is rated at 2250 RMS watts and the SAZ 2500D at 1 ohm is rated at 2500 RMS, so it should be plenty. If it were me, I would order the Dual 2 ohm coil, and wire it in parallel to 1 Ohm.

Since no one who suggested is really posting why, I will try to help. Back in the day if you wanted tight, punchy, accurate bass, usually associated to rock, and country music, the obvious choice was sealed. This was also true if you wanted a SQ oriented system as well, because musical accuracy is more important than overall volume. If you listened to Hip Hop, and Pop music, or wanted a more SPL oriented sound, then people would choose a Ported enclosure. What has happened though in the last 10 years, is that makers of subwoofers realized they can customize a subwoofer to make it sound accurate in the enclosure it was designed for. So speakers like the Alpine Type R series sound pretty crappy in a sealed box compared to a ported enclosure built to specs. Unfortunately makers of subwoofers who design their subs for a specific type of enclosure, still list enclosure specs that don't really fit the subwoofer. Alpine still lists that their Type R 12" is good for a sealed enclosure at .75 cubes, even though they know it sounds like crap compared to the same speaker and same power in a properly tuned ported enclosure. Even the accuracy of the ported enclosure is better than the sealed enclosure for the Type R 12". So what do we do...Research. If you haven't already bought the subs, do some research and find out what other people are putting in thier rides, and compare this to the types of music that yours will be playing. Figure out how much space you are willing to dedicate towards subs. And finally figure out what your budget is for the system. After that, you should be able to narrow things down, and pick an enclosure type to start working with. If you have already purchased subs, do some research and find out what situations people are happy with them, and design around that. Good luck.

One of my biggest fail moments was back in 98. I kept hooking up my Punch amp backwards, because my other RF amp right beside it, had the polarities oriented the other way. I blew three fuses before the Punch let out the magic smoke, and then I realized what I had done.

I read it as though he wanted a design that would house two DCON 10s, but SSAs suggested DCON enclosures only list single 10" designs.

Changed my mind and went with two Sundown SA-10s. The box is only a couple inches bigger all the way around. And two 10s from the same line as the 8 I wanted to use will be louder, and sound better.

If you want to make it harder for thieves, get T-nuts, hex head machine screws, and thread lock. Oh, and don't forget to bolt your box down. I have seen people go as far as bolting it down from inside the box.

Just a quick question. I am on a quest trying to create a small enclosure for my small Jetta trunk and still have usable space. Slot port enclosures take up a lot of room that a standard Aero Port doesn't. Would a single 4" Aero Port tuned to the right length, be enough for two SA-10s in a reccommended specification enclosure powered by a SAX-1200D?

Thank you. you wouldn't happen to have the Sd also?

That would work, except I haven't seen Jacob post the Xmax values for this line.

I should add what sound I am looking for. I am not looking for a pure SPL, or a pure SQ enclosure. I want to be able to listen to it at normal volumes for most music, and then dial in the remote knob when the bass is pumping on certain songs.

Yeah I designed it for rated power. Talk to the RAM, but I am sure it will cost you.

Hey Nikita, I just got through designing an enclosure for two SA-10s yesterday, and don't mind sharing that with you. Specs are as follows: External Dimensions DWH = 17.25"x29.25"x15.5" Net volume for Sub = 2.2 Cubic feet Port length = About 38" Tuning Frequency = 34 Hz This is using an L shaped slot port. The internal dimensions of the woofer chamber is 12"x24"x14". The port is 3" wide, and 14" tall. I can send you a picture I drew, if you PM me your email.

All the math that I do keeps confirming my original issues. In order to make the SA-8 (an awesome and beefy small woofer) into a compact sub solution, I would have to compromise in one way or the another. The following are a list of compromises I have come up with: Tune it to specs and end up with a box that compares to the size of a box designed for two SA10s. Have a port area too small, and risk the possibility of port noise and/or whistling. Have an external port, that would consume all the space of the correctly tuned box, and be ugly at the same time. Increase the tuning of the port or woofer chamber and hope that it doesn't destroy the woofer or sound like crap. Buy a passive radiator and spend hours tuning the mass to make it sound right. Put it in a sealed box and live with the result. Since I still want it to sound good, I am going with the first option, but dropping the idea of a single space saving SA-8 in favor of two SA-10s or 1 SA-12. Lesson learned: This sub is awesome, and was designed to have a small woofer chamber, but the combination of the smaller woofer chamber and properties of its ultra low tuning, create an enclosure that would be better suited for 2 or more of the same woofer. The theory behind this is that as you increase the size of the woofer chamber the port doesn't need to be as long to acheive the same frequency, but if you increase the chamber size beyond the range of the woofers you are using, it will sound bad, and could destroy the woofer. Good job Sundown on a good product, but it just doesn't fit the needs of my vehicle. Let me know when you build one that is better suited for a small sealed enclosure that acts like a nice ported one.

I just downloaded the manual to the Alpine MRD-M500, and if that is the amp you have it seems rather easy to adjust the gain settings. Download the manual from alpine's support page. It is a neat looking amp, with an interesting way to adjust the settings. Adjustments start on page 11.

My initial thought has nothing to do with the sub bottoming out, but the method you used to set your gain, and sensitivity knobs. Read some more about setting gains, or take it to a shop that can set your gains for you. Most likely your improper gain settings is introducing a distorted signal to your woofer causing it to make noise that shouldn't be there. Unless the box is designed wrong, I really doubt a properly set up mrd500 would bottom out the SA-8.

I just researched it, and the PR costs about $75. As much as I want this one sub, I don't think adding $75 to the price tag os going to work for me. Right now I can get 2 SA-10s for $220. The box would end up being the same size or smaller than the one SA-8 enclosure, and would be able to get louder. The only way to compromise would be to go with a box tuned in the high 40s. Back to the drawing board.

That is about the same response I seem to be getting from everywhere I ask the question. A box for two 10's or 12's is much easier to maintain a smaller footprint than one sa-8 while retaining the reccommended air space. I am almost wondering if a different style of enclosure would be better suited to get such a low tuning from such a small air space. I will measure the trunk tonight and see if a 2"x10" port will work. As long as the corners are rounded would a 2"x10" port eliminate port noise?

Most likely used a chamfering bit on a router, before he assembled the box.

The one from the W7 would probably work. I am think about crafting my own incorperating the sundown logo.

Looks like a small hatch, so I would guess it is the Golf. I am going to be doing the same with my Jetta and the new SA-8V2. I just need to go ahead and pre-order it.