jokers10

Yep. I would do the ring terminal on the inside. That way the box could be quickly removed if needed.

Mark is good about responding to these, but I would wager that you can power it however you like, but warranty coverage would be sketchy above the RMS rating.

I almost have everything together for my system, and should have it installed by the end of the month. I drive a Jetta, and my car is just a bit smaller than yours. I chose the Sundown 1200D, and two Sundown SA10s. I got my box designed by PWK. Everything is sitting in my garage ready to go, except the MDF, and the Amp, which will be here tomorrow. I will post a build log when I am done. Maybe it will help you decide on what you want to do.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=091-1245 Just drill holes and put on the post.

Is there such thing as overkill when it comes to wire size? As long as it fits there are no negative side effects for using larger wire.

Saw this yesterday before the server crashed. Woke up this morning and ordered my kit.

Black electrical tape does a good job at hiding LEDs with wrong color syndrome.

the sax-1200d has only one channel. It looks like it has two channels, but they are connected internally.

I wouldn't use the epicenter at all. But any way I would go from the KENWOOD KDC BT848U you have listed in your signature to the MATRIX. If you are dead set on using the Epicenter, hookup the sub output of the MATIRX to the Epicenter. From there connect it all to the DQXS which should be before your amps.

Stefan got to it before me, but every head unit I have seen with my own eyse on the o'scope, is that the max volume before clipping is reduced proportionally to the level the bass level of the head unit. For instance; if your radio clips at 34/35 at level 0 for bass, it will probably clip at 32/35 at +1 bass etc...

You will want to set the gain of the amp at the max level your head unit is capable without clipping. I know that there are head units like the CDA-117 from Alpine that do not clip at max volume with flat settings. I am unsure however if you start increasing the bass level on the head unit if this will remain true. It really depends on the head unit. That being said, once you have your gains set, you can use both to adjust the level of bass, but only by decreasing both. For instance you need to have your remote bass knob plugged in and turned all the way up before you set your amplifier gain. If you found out that your head unit does not clip with both the volume, and bass maxed out, or some level before that point, you need to set it there, and only play to that level and below. I don't see a need for using the head unit's bass level, if your box is designed right for your vehicle.

If you were to run these active on a Sundown 100.4, which tweeters would you reccommend to match them? The Neo Pros would be installed in the bottom of the door in a 03' Jetta with the tweeter mounted in the stock A pillar location. Sub stage is two SA-10s powered by a SAX-1200D ported @34Hz in the trunk.

Yeah, in most cases (less than 2000 watts) just the Big 3 upgrade and a better performing battery will do.

Bought two used Sundown SA-10 D4s. Clear communication, shipped quick using original packaging. I would do business with Mr. Bojangles again.

I am not seeing any feedback options either. Am I overlooking it?

Are you sure the new alternator's pulley is lining up correctly? With a combination of symptoms like a new squealing belt, and that it has popped off, would point that you might need to shim to new alternator in order to line up the pulleys.

I am actually using PWK right now. I have seen what he is capable of on the youtube, and people on his forum seem to really champion his product. I actually have yet to see a negative review of what he does, and knowing him, and how much he charges for these designs, I am sure he would redesign if needed. That being said there is a sticker shock to his design price. But as far as I know he is the only one that takes into account cabin modeling. Timeliness is another concern. It took at least a week to get an initial response. I think this week is justifiable considering he has to look at the data presented and do a preliminary numbers check to make sure that what you want is even possible. I guess what I would like to see is when a case file is opened, where you are at in line. It might be out there and I have overlooked it.

I am just hoping for some more component options in the future.

It depends on if there is soft parts available, and how cheap the soft parts are. It also depends on the time you want to put into it as well.

Have you tried connecting the probe to the test point, and then pressing the auto key? My first inclination makes me think the signal is there, just not on the screen. I would check the Y-position as well.

Sounds like the alternator you bought has a really crappy idle output. I would see about sending it back, and getting a Mechman.

http://www.bcae1.com/ Section 31 on the right hand side.

Did you ever figure out this issue? I used to calibrate o'scopes, and could possibly help.

I don't know for sure, because I don't have one, but every other 12" in thier line-up besides the Z, is 11&1/8" or 11.125". I am sure Jacob will chime in here soon.

You should be fine with that alternator, and 1 XS D3100 @2 Ohms. However if you are going to upgrade your subs, which I would imagine you would eventually, and run that puppy at 1 ohm, I would consider getting at least another d3100 for reserve power.