jokers10

I paid $75 for a harbor freight router, and used one of the edge guide rods to turn it into an infinitely variable (7"-20") circle jig. Maybe I need to post a video of that.

Yeah, that is a weird shaped stock radio. It would look silly to add something aftermarket. If you end up going for the SQ route in the future you could look towards getting an OEM integration product like the Audison Bit series or the RF 360.3.

Copied from the manual: "GTO™ Great Turn On: No need to look for a trigger wire. The LC2i turns on all by itself. Just hook up the speaker level inputs and as soon as you turn on the factory audio system the LC2i will power up as well. After the LC2i turns itself on, it provides a 12 volt trigger output to turn on your amplifier. A Jumper which you can reach from the end panel allows you to set this feature on/off for specialized installations. The factory default setting for the GTO™ circuit is always ON."

Post a pic of your stock radio front face. I want to see if it is worth keeping. And why so many topics. You could have just asked about the line converter here again. p.s. No progress on my amp install in the Jetta over the weekend. Gotta get the house on the market.

yes, but I would recommend a better quality conver such as this http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_43567_AudioControl-LC2i.html

35 hz is fine for daily. I tend to run mine a hair lower, but it depends on your vehicle and the music you listen to.

If you want both daily sound and a setup optimized for a specific competition would be to build 2 boxes. Think about it. You wouldn't be carrying this second box everywhere you go, just to competitions. And your primary every day box will remain clean and unassuming. If you are dead set on using one box, the build a box with an external pvc port, and find another pvc pipe that fits inside of it. Look up Blue Man Group's Drumbone for what I am talking about.

how you gonna cut them speakers holes?

Now we need some max external dimensions you are willing to sacrifice for an enclosure. This at a minimum would need to be greater than your required air space, plus the displacement of your slot port, and your subs. What vehicle is it going in will also help.

Still looking for a good answer on this. Really thinking about picking up a pair of these, but not unless I get a good set of tweeters, and my 100.4.

Are you going Slot, or AeroPort?

Do what I do, and run quick disconnects on your box. That way if you need trunk space, you remove the box. On a day to day basis, most people only carry junk in their trunk.

My boxes final exterior measurements for my Jetta box ended up being 38" wide, 12" tall, and 14" deep. Almost exactly what you are looking for. The structure of it is complete, I just need to apply the finishing touches, and get my amp wired up to see how it sounds.

CVR's mounted upside down....gross. Whatever, it's your build. I wouldn't use Aero Ports, only because there is no need. Why spend money on plastic when a slot port will look better, and be built into the box. Yes you lose some volume in the box, but it is negligable. I would pay for a custom design if I were you. Four 15s is a large build, and while I mentioned bracing, I haven't seen you mention it anywhere. Good luck.

Too much deadener???? Is that possible? What could be happening, is that now that your car is not radiating all of those vibrations through the body panels, you are hearing what is actually coming from the speakers. Sounds to me like it is time to upgrade.

This is an easy question to answer. No doubt, with that power I would use an SSA DCON. Either the 10 or the 12 would work in your situation. I personally would go ported. You are looking for more output, and the proper ported enclosurewill accomplish that.

If you have a sub, 6x9s are a waste of money and the time it will be required to seal them off from the subwoofer. Money would be better spent increasing the front stage. If you don't have a sub, new 6x9s, 2 or 3-way, would sound better than factory speakers. The ones you linked can handle 100 watts RMS, Which normally means the 17ish watts rms your deck puts out, probably won't move them very much, but will still probably sound better than stock.

Most of the time when using a slot port configuration, you use one side of the box as the port wall. This just makes it easier, so you don't have to make as many cuts. I am assuming the deminsions provided for the box are external, and for the port are internal? If that is the case, and you are not doubling up the thickness of the walls, you could increase the port width to 45.5" (47"-1.5" for exterior walls) keep the same 5" port height, and would need to make the port about 16.5" to tune to 35 hz. This would give you a port displacement of about 2.2 cubic foot. So your box is down to 14.2 Cubic feet before subwoofer and bracing displacement. What speaker(s) are we building this thing for?

All the wood is cut except the mounting holes for the speakers. Gotta see if the wood shop on base has a circle jig, otherwise I will make my own. I started assembling and painted the port area tonight. Once I get the speaker holes cut, and it finished assembled, it will still be a while before I bump. I still need to wire my amp up, and I have a Parts Express order on the way to finish the box. I will be taking leave at the end of next week, so it, plus tons of pictures will be complete soon.

Just started cutting the wood for the box last night. Taking my time to make it perfect.

In 1998 I had a Jeep Cherokee that I had two JL Audio 15W1s (I could be mistaken on the series, because it was so long ago they don't even list them in the discontinued section). I ran them sealed with a Kicker ZR240. That was the first time I had ever seen window flex. I didn't even bridge the amp. I had stereo bass going on. But these days, I would just go with one modern ported woofer over older sealed subs if I was lacking room.

What it sounds like you are trying to get at, is that you are asking why he doesn't run the coils parallel instead of series. This would make the amp see about 1/4 ohm. Not many amps can handle a load like that. But I could be mistaken. You could mean something entirely different. If you did, I am sorry, please rewrite it. What I would do in this scenario, is run a seperate wire to each post from each coil that is going to the post like the diagram shown. At the binding post I would solder ring terminals onto the wires, and tighten them on the back of the binding post with the nut supplied.

Yeah, I enjoyed mine, and had no problems with it. The Power Guard technology has something to do with limiting power output when distortion is present. This was designed to prevent distortion from making it to the speakers, or limiting power when it does, so you don't hear it, or damage your speakers.

I actually had 2 of those back in the day, like 99 or 2000. I powered a couple of subs with one. Never used the other one. I ended up giving them away. "The Power Guard circuit is patented by McIntosh Laboratories"

I doubt ambient air, regardless of box type, has any effect on cooling the coil. It will take longer to heat a coil up if the temperature of the air is cooler, but I don't believe either enclosure has an advantage in keeping the coil cooler. The argument of a sealed enclosure keeps recirculating the same air over the coil, which gets warmer with each pass, would counteract any gain received by bounce back. ^--- This was just something I made up, and it might not contain any value, but it seems to work in my head. I say focus on building an enclosure based on the type of audio you listen too, with the specifications of the woofer, vehicle, and power taken into consideration. I doubt overheating a coil is a real concern with the accounts of box design based on ported vs. sealed.