jokers10

you might be able to snag a used sundown 1500 for your budgeted price.

Pay a little more and get the DCONs. DCONs will absolutely kill Comp VRs.

I downloaded all 7+ gigs of it 2 weeks ago. Listened to some of it, and realized it mostly sucked. If you want it, just search around for a bit. Someone will repost it.

http://damoreengineering.com/dd1.html That site has a file at the bottom of the page which is the test tones used for the DD-1. Start by downloading that, and then I have detailed instructions up in post #4.

Cool, thanks for taking care of him. Been following the build since I have a similar car.

Before I recommend this build to someone, I want to be sure it would sound ok. I have an associate that has a late 70s Vette. Baddass little car. The previous owner installed a flip screen Pioneer deck, and updated the speakers. He says it sounds ok, and gets loud but lacks the lower end like most installs that don't include subwoofers. What he wants is just to include the low end that the upgraded speakers lack, while retaining as much room as possible due to the tiny cabin this car has. My initial recommendation would be to go with the Sundown E10D4 in a sealed enclosure being powered by the Alpine MRP-M500. My enclosure would be a simple cube with internal volume measuring .52 cubic feet including speaker displacement. Does my assessment of his situation match my suggested application of equipment? (Do you think this will meet his expectations?) Is there any issue with running the E10 in a sealed enclosure, like the non-recommendation of the SA-8 in a sealed enclosure?

Now that I have initially answered here is a detailed responce. Throw in a test frequency. I use a 40Hz, because I use it for my DD-1. Test the AC voltage off of one speaker wire going into the LC2 (but disconnected from the LC2). Turn the volume up until the DMM has a steady signal. Then reconnect your LC2, and move the DMM leads to the output of the LC2. Increase the Main level on the LC2 until you have a signal on the DMM. Then verify your Low pass filter is turned all the way up, Subsonic all the way down, bass boost and gain all the way down, and disconnect the remote bass knob for now. Plug in the RCAs to your amp, and move the leads of the DMM to your speaker outputs, and play the same tone, at the same volume, and turn the gain up to see if you get a signal.

Forgot to mention. Do this with the AC voltage setting.

I can't chat at work, so I will suggest using a multi-meter. Put in a test tone, and check each spot you are supposed to have a signal.

that is it.

There is a Twit.tv show called Home Theater Geeks. I love almost every show from the Twit crew. You might like it as well.

Car audio and Home audio are only the same in that each system produces sound. The acoustics are important in both are important, and vary depending on what you are looking for in the system. I would turn to a home audio forum for the experts in that field. I used to be a part of home theater shack. Pretty good forum, lots of experts, and only trolls/flamers when the topic generator hasn't read anything.

lol, I misread that. six 15s, six amps. Yeah what I said above.

What is a 15s-6? If it is a normal amplifier you can just use the RCA outputs. If you are not strapping the amps you are never running into a master/slave situation. You are simply passing the signal from amp to amp. It is only a through however so the signal might be reduced for 6 amps, so I would also recommend a line driver.

I hate to do a build log before I am completely done, but it looks like I won't get much else done between now and when I leave for Korea, and when I get back, I will probably upgrade, so the build will start over at that point. Starts off as a stock Jetta with an upgraded head unit. Not the best of head units, but it does what I need for now. It is a Kenwood DDX-418. The GLI model comes with from the factory with a Monsoon audio system. This consists of a factory 8 Channel amp running a tweeter and woofer in each door. It sounded good, and got loud, but there was significant lacking of the low range frequencies. Anything below 80Hz was either distorted, or non existant depending on the frequency. What I was looking for in my build was to replicate the frequencies below 80Hz accurately, while still being able to crank up the bass when the song begged for it. For my upgrade I decided to go with 2 Sundown SA-10D4s. I heard nothing but good things about the SA line from Sundown, and expected these woofers would perform to my needs. For power I figured I would try what was recommended by the manufacturer, and go with Sundowns own SAX-1200D which matches the RMS value of the woofers at 1 Ohm. I knew from the beginning that a properly built enclosure would make or break my build, so I researched and found a designer that like Sundown, had the most positive reviews. I filled out a project assessment form after I decided on my equipment, and patiently waited for my design based on my parameters. What I got in return was exactly what I expected. Professionally completed blueprints with everything taken into consideration. 035 by jokers10, on Flickr With that done I started on the build. And now the pictures: (sorry they are so out of focus and grainy. Using my iPhone 4.) 001 by jokers10, on Flickr 002 by jokers10, on Flickr 003 by jokers10, on Flickr 004 by jokers10, on Flickr 005 by jokers10, on Flickr 006 by jokers10, on Flickr 007 by jokers10, on Flickr 008 by jokers10, on Flickr 009 by jokers10, on Flickr 010 by jokers10, on Flickr 011 by jokers10, on Flickr 012 by jokers10, on Flickr 013 by jokers10, on Flickr 014 by jokers10, on Flickr 015 by jokers10, on Flickr 016 by jokers10, on Flickr 017 by jokers10, on Flickr 018 by jokers10, on Flickr 019 by jokers10, on Flickr 020 by jokers10, on Flickr 021 by jokers10, on Flickr 023 by jokers10, on Flickr 024 by jokers10, on Flickr 025 by jokers10, on Flickr 027 by jokers10, on Flickr 028 by jokers10, on Flickr 029 by jokers10, on Flickr 030 by jokers10, on Flickr 031 by jokers10, on Flickr 034 by jokers10, on Flickr And finally a video. Not really a lot going on here. Just 2 views of a 0-60Hz sine wave sweep. The quality isn't the best since yet again I was using my iPhone 4 and the image stabilization in iMovie. It sounds mechanical, but almost all of the noise is from the cars body panels. I only have the trunk lid done with some peel and stick Rammat. Lots of interior noise in the second view. I will fix that over time. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8yuhexPZFQ

Lol, PTs never got good gas milage to begin with.

I would cut MDF to narrow the port, and find out how many it would take in order for it to sound lower. You could have them temporary stuck in place with double sided tape.

My calculations are closer to 43. How does it sound? You would have to cut down the width of the port by 1.5" (2x3/4" MDF laminated) in order to lower it to around 38Hz.

Thanks. It was the first ported box I have ever done, and the first time I carpeted a box. Lots of firsts going on with this build.

Air Force. I will be there for a year. I am sure it will be a blast. I will be about 40 miles south of Seoul.

Finally did a build log for mine. check it out:

No, you don't need a fused distro block. I would use distro blocks like the Kicker models, where you can use 1/0 gauge on both sides. You do however need a fuse on both ends of the positive runs as close to the batteries as possible. If you only do one side with the fuse, you could short the wire, blow the single fuse close to the battery and still be hot on the wire. If it continues to short, then you will probably end up with a crispy car.

Yeah, as long as you keep the power clean you should be good. I am probably going to be running the new Sundown 125.4 when I get back from Korea, so I don't think they would work in my build. Also I think I will need to be upgrading my sub stage when I get back from Korea as well. SAX1200D + 2xSA-10D4 in a PWK enclosure blends well with my factory system. With an upgraded front stage, I am going to have to step up to like 2K, and 2 12s.

I bet they sound nice, I would just be afraid to give them too much power. At least they are cheap if you do. Are you using the factory amp for your highs? I can't remember if this was discussed.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-372 those?