Ktownmazda6

My friend is getting one, and I suggested to him a mb quart amp running 400 watts rms. Would it be overkill to push the envelope to 500rms? He was asking me, but I am not the expert. Im pretty sure he isnt gain happy, but I am just curious if 500 would be fine, and to watch the gains, or 500 at all? I tried a few searches but I cant say I searched long, because he is waiting on me, and I have a few things to get done before the day is up, so I apologize. Thanks! -Chance

My LOC: http://www.pac-audio.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=563&CategoryID=28 Unfortunately, no the 4 channel has no RCA out.

lollll

Lol is this a joke? This thread HAS GOT to be a joke he started.

@yomama: Yeah I have an idea of port calculations now, but I didnt know if on those port length calculators u use if you were supposed to type in the gross vol, or net to get the length required on the port. @Skizzy: I will more than likely do port side, and sub front or back onlly because of my setup. My box is a wedge, and the port doesnt have mush room on any of the corners. Idk how the mazda 3 is for trunk inlet, but the mazda 6 has a huge trunk, but the entry from the seats, and even the trunk alone are very small. I only have about 16" of height max, and thats fromt he seats end. Thats why I am doing a wedge, so port facing is limited. Unless I havent come up with a better known idea yet.. lol. Moneys tight so I am stuck with this for now.

This is a box plan I made, and want some output on this. I was hoping someone could double check "my work" as you would call it, to see if everything seems okay. Image attached along with specs below: box image Specs: For a 15" fi ssd in a 1st gen mazda 6 trunk. .75 MDF Gross box volume 4.05 cu ft. Net volume: I suck at math, no clue. Hoping to be within 3-3.5 cu ft range? 4" aeroport tuned @ 33hz. ***optional setup (I am leaning towards this)*** 4.05 cu ft. gross with 6" aeroport tuned @ 35hz. Dimensions: 15" tall x 35" wide x 30" BD x 4" TD x 29.15" angled front panel length. As I said, honest opinions are GREATLY appreciated, as I want to nail this project. Thanks! -Chance

yeah thats what I thought you meant, but I ask a lot of questions cuz I have ADD really bad.. lol. Yeah im pretty stoked about this box build to be honest with you. I am actually not building the box this time. Im kinda workin out a deal with a buddy that does liners (Tuff Customs). Hes going to build it and spray line the box. Im just waiting on the flares to come in for the port. I may be designing a new logo for him in exchange for a box build, give or take some $$$ on the side too. I have one final question,a nd I think I will have it all figured out. I understand volume, but when I calculate the port dimensions on one of those calculaters, do I type in the cu ft. of the box after woofer cu ft taken out too? Like gross is 4.3 or something (i cant remember), net was 4.01 I think before subtracting the driver volume. Would I plug in that number to calculate it? Right now its claiming I need it at 12" long for 35 hz.. Thats with flared ports. I just want to be sure that adds up to 35-36 hz range.

hey man I apologize, it did not show your post a sec ago!! Are you in a hatch model or sedan? I assume sedan cuz hatch came out in 05 right? Im currently running sub up and port up, but I just assume I would have had better results with the sub facing the seat. Not the case in this car eh?

Hey Skizzy thanks man, I appreciate the tools! Ive been using the12volt calcs, and pspinc calcs so far. I will check that one out and add it to my list of goodness. lol. I learned that port noise could be a problem with the 4" after I made this post. Now, with that set aside, and I may be over analyzing this.. In a medium/large sized trunk (approx 19" inside by 44" wide), must the port run to the side, or top? I currently have it planned for the side. It doesnt appear to have much room to port up, with the type of box I will be building.

Awesome, thats what I was leaning towards. Otherwise everything else checks out? Im assuming its going to have a "harder" hit being tuned to 35hz instead of 32hz on my old box, or has someone "misinformed" me? I dont trust a lot of things I hear from people around my area (Keller, TX).

Awesome.. I decided upon 15" H x 24" D x 41" W for now, with a 4" diameter port going 6" deep. Net for that box before sub and driver disp. was 3.47168. I should be ok, as long as I am 3 cu ft. or more. I think I will build this one after more research. I just wanted to make sure I was at least having the right idea based on what you guys explained. I think if I do just a little more research, I will be good to go! Thanks a million for everybody's help and input!

New to the audio scene and was posed with this question.. Lets say I am trying to squeeze a box into my car, and the trunk fully stripped, can only accept a box that is a max height of 15.5". Would it be possible to fit a 15" Fi SSD in a box that was reduced to 15.5 inches tall? Wouldn't that affect the integrity of the box, being that thin on the top and bottom, or would that even work period? More in depth: Id have to bet that there would be a lot of sanding/sawing involved. I am in a predicament, as my sub faces up in my 1st gen mazda 6 sedan. The actual trunkspace has PLENTY of width, and depth, but the entrance inlet from trunk, or seats is not vary tall. As stated in a post a few months back, in a pretty much now dead thread.. I stripped my whole trunk to bare metal, including removing the back seats, and a 18Hx15.5Dx38.25W box would not fit normal. I had to put it to where the sub was pointing up. Bromo gave me plans for a 3 cu ft. box at 17Hx14Dx38W (props to you Bromo), but I am still concerned of spending money for the build, and it still not fit. Long story short, is 15.5" mounting height possible for a 15" fi ssd? (I prefer to describe situations, so you guys have more info.) Thanks in advance! -Chance

Thanks everyone!! Here is what I have come up with. It is a struggle for me, as I have never been good at anything geometry/number related, but here is what I came up with: I made a angled box, with (1) aeroport. Tell me if this sounds right for approx 3 cu ft. 14"Hx24"Dx38.5"W, with the angled baffle being approx 27.8". (1) 6" round aeroport on the side, that is 18.848" deep. I hope that makes sense? That claims about 3 cu ft. But idk if thats considered net or gross, or whatever.

Thanks, sorry your post for some reason did not show up a sec ago.

Exactly. All you need is enough volume and for it to fit on the baffle so tip it Sweet. Does that effect the tuning or port in a great way? How would I calculate port dimensions when its angled like that? I know you guys are probably tired of hearing the same questions over and over from various people, but I am going to milk as much info as I can!! I apologize for that. heres a usefull tool http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp AHA!! So basically, in this instance, I would usy an angled box, with an aeroport!! Correct?

Exactly. All you need is enough volume and for it to fit on the baffle so tip it Sweet. Does that effect the tuning or port in a great way? How would I calculate port dimensions when its angled like that? I know you guys are probably tired of hearing the same questions over and over from various people, but I am going to milk as much info as I can!! I apologize for that.

Oh crap am I that retarded right now? Do you mean basically an angled box? ...FML if I am that retarded.

loll thanks guys. In noob language, diagonal baffle sounds like my greatest enemy right now. (granted theres not much of my brain left as I worked my 9 hours today, and I am tired). What the heck might that be? If I need to use the search button, I guess my lazy butt will do so.. lol. Thanks Everyone!

I rally apologize for such LAAATEE response on this!! 08 was actually the last of the 1st gen. The trunk is deep and wide, but not very tall. I have been thinking about that lately.. I just do not have box knowledge to make it perfect in height. I never got to cutting the sheets as he recommended above. I still need to give it a shot its just im always working :-( Believe me I DO NOT want it facing up. It DOES rattle the deck like crazy.. I know this is meant to be in another topic if I ask this but as far as cu ft. and tuning are concerned, does one make it sound louder? Lets say a box tuned at 30 hz and 4 cubes.. will it be louder than a box thats 33 hz at 4 cubes? What happens when you reduce the cu/ft? I was curious about that.

I cut a box according to the ssd cut sheets, and it is in a 08 mazda 6i sedan (non hatch model). well.. Downside is it does not fit with the sub facing the seats. I gutted the trunk to bare metal to see if it would help me try to squeeze it in.. NADA. I PROMISE you it does not fit any other way unless I somehow build it in the trunk. So my dilemma, is that the sub is pointing straight up towards a panel, and a lot of the bass "energy" is soaked up from it. Is anyone knowledgeable to give me the smallest possible dimensions for 33hz ported box? I suck at numbers, they give me headaches, and I failed alg. twice in college.. lol. I know that sounds lazy, but sub boxes are not my trade, I would much rather a forum expert show me their idea, since there are people here that love that stuff anyways. If I would estimate, the box would have to be no more than 17" tall (where the sub is at), and maybe 13-14" deep? The width can be 38" wide. Would that even suffice to be 3 cu ft. after a type of port is inserted? I can grasp cu ft. but not when a port comes into play. I am looking at this box, but I am not sure what the tuning is on it:http://www.topedgeonline.com/Single_15_ported_sub_box_p/hb1x15spl.htm Does anyone know the tuning of that box, or if it would work? You know if all else fails, I would pay someone to build it if you are interested.. Another note to mention.. Is it even worth fixing, do you think a panel soaks up enough energy from the sub? Thanks for the help in advance. For people's information, I did try the "search" function, but my internet is slow so I wasn't looking too long, and nor did I find something that would quite describe my problem. Thanks, -Chance

Thank you sir!! I appreciate your help on the forums!

If this specific question has been covered, or if this is posted in the wrong place, I apologize. I have not seen it yet on my research. I purchased an armdso nano O-Scope at a good deal, and figured I could maybe use it to tune my amp finally. I know the dmm method of tuning, but I figured why not try it with my oscope. The only thing is, my knowledge is non existent with electronics ironically. How would you tune it with a 1 probe x1-x10 with an alligator ground clip? I assume the probe just goes in the positive part of the amp to tune it, and the alligator goes on a ground source? The one I purchased does not have a 3.5mm jack with the black and red probes. It is a single x1-x10 probe. How do I tune it with just one probe like that? I understand how to tune one, when you have TWO probes (blk/red), but how when I just have one? Specs if needed: Im running a mb quart onyx at 1000rms for my loaded 15" fi ssd. needless to say, I am hooked on the bass, and would like to tune it lol. gain is all the way down, as I never had a good way to tune it. Thanks for the future help, it means a lot, as not all of us are as knowledgeable as some of you guys! That's why I am here!

Update for you guys: Problem solved. Im an idiot and forgot that I adjusted the bass to -5 instead of -3 at some point on my HU. I now have it set at -4, with my gain up maybe 15%, to where it goes up to 14 volume without clipping. :-) Thats about loud enough for my ears, but I still want more bass B-). Maybe one day when the budget can afford it!! Thanks for everyones help and input, it is greatly appreciated. I would rather not stay a forever in this forum, and you guys help expand my knowledge! That, and google.. lol.

Well somethings lying to me!! lol. I retested it, cuz it just didnt seem right, and now it can go all the way up to 18 before clipping!!! Am I missing something here? I mean I can CLEARLY tell when the waveform starts to square out. Could the power wire coming off have anything to do with it? After the first time I tested it, at some point I noticed the big red power wire came loose for the amp. I thought the amp would not power at all in that situation? Am I right? It may have come off just after I tested it, im not sure. But anyways, I find it rather odd that I can go to 18 now according to the oscope. No settings have been touched at all on anything since I tested it last time.. Its mind boggling for a guy like me.

Well, I did everything properly (or so I think), and it is saddening to know that the factory mazda 6 head unit, or more so my amp, with matched input, gain all the way down, and bass at -3 out of 6 would clip at VOLUME 12!!! I have always debated getting a new head unit, but they look so tacky on my specific vehicle.. This though... This may be the nail on the coffin. I cannot bear to reduce my bass to something that weak. Ive been playing it at 12 this whole time thinking there is NO WAY it could possibly be clipping. I did it intentionally until I could tune it. I was rather shocked that it was clipping at volume 12.. The head unit goes to 33. I mean I know its a factory head unit, but still... Thats ridiculous.