SubSam

If you do own an engineering company AND possess the know-how to contribute in your company I would consider you in extreme minority nowadays. It's all about opening a company then putting your feet up and letting the cash roll in right? It's a shame really, nobody has passion for their work anymore. Now about that paper bag problem I think we should wire up a BtL with ninja stars on the dustcap and burp our way out lol

Ooh okay don't do that then lol I try and solve all my problems with solvents

4" coil going into the N3 or NSG?

Got access to chemicals? Either toluene or phenetol take off almost any obscure epoxy/glue. Clean up the old glue for a better fit (if needed)

Try fiberglassing in this weather man... I buy more hardener than resin by volume lol but its the leaves blowing around that really piss me off. Anything for the sake of perfect sound

Just wait for the NSG lmfao four neo pucks will rip up some baffles

And what's your signal setup? Sound processor?

I think you gotta fiddle with your levels on your amp... if you know your power is dirty don't get close to a clip but on sure you can get them subs moving with that power.

Im sure you could make it fit, but its up to you to be creative enough to pull it off. That's the fun part anyways, it may take you weeks to get it right but anyone can

Yea my name should really be AmpSam I could go for days on anything Electric Power but I know very little about how speaker motors work physically other than some diagrams and calculations from a sophomore fields and waves class... I see lots of curving field vectors interacting dynamically with a larger fixed flux and my brain just gives up when I try to imagine the sinal wave in from the amp translating into an accurate sound pulse, I just decide I'm too tired to think anymore Anyway your job is fascinating, I've enjoyed lots of professions, can't say I've gotten to play with as cool of equipment as you guys tho (maybe the 500 MHz NMR in the chem lab, but its kinda boring)...

Sorta.. It's a completely different understanding on how flux flows and works.. Generally speaking it is a fluid dynamics problem meets physics meets mechanical engineering and a dash of electrical engineering thrown in as well..given your background i'm you are all too aware of that one . Scott and I did the very first original N2..and for some reason I was looking at it with a smart ass little grin when I was machining the parts to go together and yelled at Scott to come out in the machine shop.. Simply said "I wonder what will happen if we make this thing a half motor...just to really mess with peoples minds" ..and here she sits now ..simply me being a complete smart-ass and it works beautifully. Lol that's pretty awesome. You know what they say, "the genius that invented the mule was none but a jackass" Can't try it if you don't build it

I love the new magnets, if you think about it they're so much stronger than the ferrite magnets of old. The horseshoe-shaped flux coming out of that end of the magnet equals the circular flux from a standard magnet. It's genius. An sq woofer doesn't need a huge flux, it needs a [mass] balanced, concentrated flux. Or at least that's how I think about it, I might be totally wrong Can't wait for my N2 now.

An inside shot of the bracing:

I recommend a .75" window brace and 2x3 lumber for the other bracing:

If you really do have to go sealed you may want to get that aluminum inductance ring option (they still have that for the Q right?) That is a good heatsink for the voice coils and helps maintain proper driver behaviour through hard bumpin as the coil sheds heat easily, as well as the inductance mentioned in the option's name.

Cooling option x2 :coughportedcough:

if that was too confusing without pictures let me know and I will upload some for you

Sure man, you have several options, and if there's going to be no plexi window to see into the box then bracing should really be very simple and easy to accomplish. First, you have to just look at the box and see which areas have the longest unsupported regions. Just like you can't build a cantilever bridge that is too long without sagging, you can't have a long piece of .75" MDF without support. There is some volume absorbed in the bracing process, so if you are tight for volume its not clever to overkill the bracing.(I would say that you aren't tight for volume at all, but I know you want to stay close to 7 cubic, so lets be efficient with bracing here) The style of brace depends on again how long an area needs support. Window braces, or the equivalent Y or H brace made from 1x1 or 2x2 lumber will serve you well for that long, unsupported length you have in the top piece of your box. You can use larger lumber, but I wouldn't use bigger than 2x3 for volume's sake. The left side of the box (as seen from the pictures) doesn't have the support of the right side as there is no port there, so you could use more bracing to prevent torsional flex not only from the bass but from driving forces. I would recommend cutting a few 45 degree cuts out of lumber to support it top/side and bottom/side. These cuts can be relatively short, if your window/H brace is wide enough. If you made the 45's in each corner the way I recommended, those will serve as bracing as well, leading me to believe the last bracing you may want to add is to the baffle, tho its extra thick already, one 2x2 @ a 45 degree orientation from the bottom to baffle and top to baffle couldn't hurt, and the same goes for the back piece of the box. Congrats. Your box should be braced well enough to run a car over it

YYep I know... just to give me something easy to brag about to all the NEWBS that claim JL! or MTX! or some other brand... I can talk circles around them with those sort of points such as the importance, no wait NECESSITY of proper cooling features and motor balance... the sensitivity itself is irrelevant but the better design features tend to trickle down and represent a higher dB rating, even though the most important aspect of any properly made/cooled woofer is the consistency of the t/s parameters at high output and under long steady use. As I said before, its hard to sell stuff to ppl that don't even speak English, its nice to have some numbers on a paper to point at. Edit: the better features don't HAVE to represent higher sensitivity... eh why did I even bother asking lol I did say it was irrelevant in my original post, I was just curious... trying to get the Fi guys to leak some early t/s parameters my way

At my shop we carry T2s and T1s along with our JL line, not to compare them to the value of Fi Audio but the new T2's are pretty beastly in their own right. Rockford goes back and forth with domestic vs overseas production, but they're back on the right track. We got rid of their product line for years, just brought them back last year. I may work with a lot of brands, but I got Fi Qs and a new N2 on the way for my cars... that's what I have to say about that

Yea I whipped up a dual 5" port design too, but I'm convinced he wouldn't be able to build it outside his trunk and get it in this design should be a good balance between ease-of-construction and proper enclosure performance, so I think... Appreciate the thumbs up either way

nice router work... never hurts to add cosmetic features to a quality sound build

Got them girls with R.I.B.S. eh? Seen that plenty of times... Ratio Induced Bitch Syndrome. They think they're hot and all that till they step out of their area code.

Lol yep got dual relays mounted under the inverter too... gotta keep those accessible until I finish the rest of the system... then I can flush the inverter in there and make it look pretty... don't worry, I will post a full build log when its done. Waiting for my N215 to arrive (Scott told me they ship out the 22nd), and I gotta finish by Dec. 2nd for an installation demo. Here's a sneak peak, haven't attached the baffle, tho I glassed it up good yesterday. Here's where the N2 is gonna sit: And yes that triangular brace doubles as a mount for a triangular plexi window fiberglass corner bracing is a must also

Center console wall sockets are so handy