stratusrt01

OK, and you know how it sounds how? You couldn't even really hear the sub, all you could hear was the vibrations and the roof flexing.

I was impressed considering it's only 1500 watts, but he's a young kid who just wanted to be the loudest on the block for his money, so I did what I could for him.

I went with the sanded smooth and painted to match the exterior myself. It's nice looking, but hell to keep dust free, and doesn't exact manage reflections well:

finally got the front stage all setup, and painted and fiberglassed. Time to start building for the bass now.

I had edead v1 on my trunklid and around where we cut out the rear deck. I say had because the 1st time it got over 90 degrees, I found it stuck to the top of my amps and my subs. It just fell off. I have Cascade V-Block now, and no problems whatsoever.

What's the height of the enclosure? Hard to check all the numbers without that, but Corey is good at transmission lines. Just don't try to give it rms in that enclosure if you value your subwoofer. 800-1000 watts would be plenty.

it's actually missing 2 pieces, the gauge cluster surround was very brittle, and ended up breaking when we were taking it off. I have a new one, it's at the paint shop now. The center piece houses my center channel, and is currently still getting some fiberglass loving.

well, you know at least one of the options...... I have a few options available right now, but "to wall, or not to wall, that is the question" here's a few pics without the flash where you can see the actual color, not just the glare of the White Ice Pearl.

No turbo kit, I have a Rippmods supercharger setup for it, although I'm not happy with the electronics, so I'm going to do it up switching to a GM hot wire mass airflow sensor and a MAF conversion with it which will help accurately measure the airflow. Still working out the details, but the 3000GT guys have been doing it for a while, and it uses similar electronics.

As soon as I get another 100.4, I will be switching to full active crossovers. I have a nice classic RF Symmetry also to help with the task.

Can't you give them multiple warnings till it stunts their posting? We can warn someone into oblivion here. They still exist as a user, but they can no longer post until we decide to either decrease the warning level or until mark or aaron ban them. if we give them 3 warnings, they automatically get a 3 day ban. It's not an IP ban, so most just create new accounts and cause trouble, and even then after 3 days they are automatically let back in. If there's a spammer who only posts twice, we can't do anything about it except for delete the posts, they can come back 3 times before we can give them a 3 day ban. Don't take me wrong here, my issue is with Shon, not with any of the SSA crew, since we've brought this up many times before and nothing was ever done about it. I have nothing against SSaudio or denim, I have utmost respect for the guys. And although I'm a ROE moderator, I like this site a lot, and I frequent it often, it's kept under control and I like the atmosphere and the people here. Reminds me of ROE a couple years ago before the kids showed up.

The idiots on ROE would be weeded out if the mods had the power to take care of them and not give out "warnings"........

well, I guess I'll hang up my mod hat on ROE then. If Shon doesn't trust me enough to give me admin access like I've asked for for a year, so that the mods actually have teeth, and wants to bring in outside help, I guess he doesn't need me anymore. I've been trying to get Shon to take actions for a while, but he refused to give anyone admin access, so good luck to you guys. I try to moderate fairly, but still get crapped on a lot, but oh well, what can you do?

I'll get some better pics of the door panels tomorrow when it's daylight. I have 2 sets of CDT HD's in each door, with the imaging tweeters in the A pillars, and the CDT centerstage setup flushed into the center of the dash. All will be running off a Sundown SAX-100.4, and very soon there will be a set of M6's in kickpanels run off my 100.2. Just have to rebuild the kicks, they had some structural flaws.

hmmmmmm, I was just talking to Jacob a couple days ago about the new install for bassrace. I could handle 4 10's for bassrace.

oops, missed this thread...... I did do a 149.5 with no testing in my trunk with the seats folded up, yes, you heard that right, seats up!!! with a pair of 10's on the 4 SAZ-1500's. I'm working on the new setup, kind of hoping the Nighshade comes through soon, so I can still give it a good reaming.

the box is 30x20x15, subs back, port to the side...... very nice box, I'm using one as my computer sub right now with the SD-1's, and everyone's been amazed by the output. Don't know if it's really tuned low enough for true HT use though.

I built almost that exact setup, simple out of mdf. I think I could have gotten really creative with the fiberglass if the truck was here, but I built off of straight measurements. This was for a single 10" sub though:

I would have done a little more homework before going with PAP, noone has gotten anything considered "good" numbers from their subs at all.

where are you at in NC? If you're close, I can help you out.

I've used about every one of them, and I have to say that I've had best luck with Cascade Audio products coming straight from them, I don't know about the kits they sell on ebay though. They were followed very closely by Second Skin. The worst I've used was edead, it got up to 90 degrees, I turned on my subs and it sounded like one was blown, I opened the trunk, and the edead had fallen off and landed on the subs. Noone seems to have used the Cascade, but IMHO, it's awesome.

I would think a Transmission Line tuned to the car's resonant freq and boosted around there also would be sweet. Get a driver with high sensitivity, the T-Line will lower the power handling anyways, and you'd be extremely loud. The TLine would be huge though.

I'm currently using 2 SD1 12's for my computer sub setup in a transmission line, and I love 'em.

1.75 cubes tuned to 34 or 35 I believe, can't remember off the top of my head.

Well, got to hear my first set of SD-1 10's yesterday. Let me be the 1st to say that when I initially saw them, I was a sceptic and was wondering what the hell Jacob was thinking. But, I still wanted to give them a listen and see what they're all about. To my surprise, I was shocked and amazed by those little subs. I expected them to sound good, but what I didn't expect was the amount of output that a pair of $100 10's on 300 watts would have. I was amazed. With no real tuning time, just sticking the woofers in the box, hooking them up to the rear channels of a 100.4, and letting them rip. Needless to say I was impressed. Impressed enough that I picked up a pair of SD-1 12's to test out completely, not just for a few minutes. Then on my way home, I started to think about it. I got into car audio in 1988, when IASCA SQ comp was the only game in town. We didn't have huge amps, 1500 watts was unthought of to have in a street driven vehicle, only manufacturer sponsored demo vehicles had that much power. Subwoofers all looked like the SD-1, there were no 2500 watt rms subwoofers, we wouldn't have thought there would ever be. Most people were running 200-300 watt setups for bass. If you have 600 watts, you were king of the streets. And they were loud. Hard to compare numbers from back then with the termlab numbers, but I competed in 0-50 watt class and during testing, hit 144db sealed up in 1992 with 2 Kicker Comp 12's and an Autotek 7050XX. This may explain why I like this woofer. High sensitivity, high Q, great sounding woofer that'll get loud on low power and sound great doing it. Kind of a flashback for me. Expect a more detailed review of the SD-1 12's soon, as I build a couple boxes and give them a good listening to under a lot of circumstances. I would say IMHO, if you are looking at other low priced speakers, give the SD-1's a chance, you may be surprised, I was.