DarkTinman

Also, how much space needs to be between the box and the inside end of the port?

Alright, so here it is. I have been looking around and i can't find any topic that talk about building a L port or how to build an L port. I am going to have to do this with my box (unfortunatly) and i would like to see how some of them were done. I have looked all over "SPL & SQ / Fabrication" and "Build Logs" but i can't seem to find it. I found one persons video of him doing it but only the last cut. It would be awesome if i could get some real experience about the "L" port and any tips/tricks. Hopefully this topic will help more people out then just me! I look forward to seeing what you guys have to say!

No, there are no rules that say that. It is regularly the easiest to do that though as you can imagine just by thinking about the build.Definitely making this hard. Generically you only need to worry about the length and not shape. Turn it as you have to, but when you do the only shape consideration is to minimize the restriction to air movement and you are golden. Oh okay cool. Try to make the bend as smooth as possible is what your saying correct? No, there are no rules that say that. It is regularly the easiest to do that though as you can imagine just by thinking about the build.Definitely making this hard. Generically you only need to worry about the length and not shape. Turn it as you have to, but when you do the only shape consideration is to minimize the restriction to air movement and you are golden.X2It's easier to build it off to the side.The only reason I have shown these "L" shaped ports isbecause I generally tune on the low side with large port area.Typically the larger the port area and the lower the tuning,the port will need to be fairly long. Yeah that's where i am at now. I'm checking it out and i am going to be tuned at a nice and low 32. That means i have to have a 38 inch long port with a 8.5 tall and a width of 30 long. Should be good. Another question that came up. With working with the curve and trying to see how many inches the port is how do you do that? I ask because i was drawing out my port and stuff and i can see that the bottom curve is long but then the top one is just a bit shorter then the bottom on the curve part. This doesn't effect anything correct?

Yeah okay. That all makes sense. That's what i was planning to do actually but just hadn't gotten to it because it was just a test baffle. 6 sheets huh? I am thinking 3 sheets, 2 plywood and 1 mdf on the front to make the subs look flush I got you covered down below lol Thanks! Alright guys, for this baffle, i wasn't very specific. The baffle you see there is just my test baffle. I wanted to see what you thought of adding those pieces of plywood on the back and if that would affect airflow. Tomorrow i will be working on my box. This is the plan. First, redoing the baffle. I will be putting 2 layers of plywood on, then a layer of MDF on the front to make the subs look flush on the box. I will be scrapping the idea of trying to make this a removable baffle because honestly it's getting ridiculous to try and if i did i would have to weaken my anchored pieces. Also, i will be redoing the port. Now this is the part where it gets hazy. Do i still want to make it removable? So that i can have low of the lows then a high tuning for comps? Yes, but will it stay intact and be strong? Not as strong as a stagnant baffle. So i think i will be making this non removable. I want to tune at 32hz. The L port will have to be built. Now my idea right now is to take the same exact design of the baffle (The old baffle and use it as a template) then build that L port smack in the middle of the enclosure. Problem? Does airflow get effected and if so, how much? Is there a better/easier way to do it? I don't want to compromise in my box building. Random side questions, What is the best way to mount the subs? What is a good way to keep the baffle in place? Obvious glue and screw but is there a certain type of screw? (probably not but might as well ask) Is there any tips that you have that might help me? I really appreciate you guys taking time to listen and help me out on my build. I wouldn't have gotten this far without support and constructive(ish) criticism!

Any thoughts on the baffle?

Oh so it bends down? Sorry, bends up Okay, so from looking at your builds (That are looking pretty legit) the port needs to be build to a side of the wall?

^Front view^..................................................................................................................^Side view^

So these are on sale now or whats the story with them?

Probably... Well with the L shape it should stay inside the box and not have a problem with that. No i mean the bend in the port itself, where you shape the L, because if it's a hard 90 degree angle it is harder and bad for the airflow in and out of the box, or so i am told...

Yeah, sorry i guess i need to be more specific. I am talking about a slot port that goes right in the middle of the box and it's an L shaped port. So it is cut wood forced to bend. Does that make sense?

Oh okay. Well i mean around the port, not through it. Meaning the air inside of the box circulating around the port before it goes in or out

Alright guys, so this is the question. Do you think this bracing affects the air movement in my box in a negitive way and also is this a good idea? I KNOW that this is a very good way for bracing but i don't know about constriction of airflow and anything else like that

I know right? I can't wait to play them with something but i don't have any amps ATM Good question, i would have to ask justin lol

Doesn't it affect the airflow inside of the box and how sturdy is this type of port? Is it harder for the subs because of the long shape of the port itself?

Alright, it's been awhile. But i have been semi busy. Sorry this took so long... Thanks Justin (TripleRperformance) for the subs!

Haha i saw it but i would be pissed if i was the guy on the motorcycle. I mean dang. Stupid lady, i am planning on getting a motorcycle too. Still doesn't scare me enough

Yes. I am asking if there is any advantages or disadvantages to using this L port design. With the port being in the middle (for me) of my box, would it affect the air trying to flow out of the port?

My alternator was also hard to install. Like j-road said, the alternator had to be forced into place. Also the screws that i was sent never fit and i had to get new ones that threaded correctly. I didn't have a problem with the plug because mine is a bit different then J's. Thanks for looking for problems and providing J-road! Also, if you sell these alternators to other accord owners, could you explain the engine being bogged down, and the fact that the ECU has to adjust to it. That really freaked me out when i first put the alternator in. I had to take it into a shop and then was just told that it was just the alternator. Waste of money on my end but what did i know?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fRT_5yOq0C4&feature=related

Why? It's pretty much just delaying the building process. Built the box with one single layer of 3/4 plywood, braced it like a MF. Was riding at 17 cubes. Then when i got my bigger amp, i layered the inside with another layer of 3/4 MDF x2, good answer phi

I layered the inside with MDF to cut down on cubes. Because before i was running just 1 1800D KAC-9104 kenwood mono block. So i needed a bigger box. But now i am running that 3500 AQX

Yeah thanks kyle. Good to see it's not just my car. Thank you for the videos you posted. Update: (LOL) So... We took it in and pretty much he told us the same thing that kyle showed us. That the ECU needs to compensate and re-learn where the volts sit at and etc. So i pretty much wasted my time taking my car over and maybe even got a amplifier ruined! Wish i knew that this was going to be normal for the alternator to do this then i would've never taken it in.