Swimmerdude

yea, have everything as far to the drivers side as possible. Some other things to test would be with the box almost against the back gate, the box a foot further from that, and like 3 feet from the gate. Your scorew ill differ.... just got to find what does best in your car. Hey, even having one of your sun visors down can gain you .5!! LOL.

It can be possible to get a 140 with a box tuned to 45hz. Some things that will help you are tuning around 5hz below the resonance frequency of your vehicle. Hopefully you can find that out. If not, 45hz is a good starting point. Next, trying to minimize impedence rise. With impedence rise, i bet the sub will be lucky to see even 400 watts, probably even less. Get some 8g wire and use that for speaker wire. Also, make sure you 45 the corners of your box. Add some bracing to it to, but from what i have seem, dowell works great to minimize air resistance inside the box. Then when you are metering, box placement will be key. You can gain yourself maybe up to 1db by just where you box is placed in the car. If you can manage to get some testing in, this is a key thing to test.

I would definitely try out a ported box before throwing money at another sub. A new box costs what, 25 to 30 bucks and a few hours of time... compared to a few hundred. Now, you say you like sealed box's for low end extension. How low are you talking about?? Maybe below like the 25-30hz mark the sealed might be better, but other than that, the ported will be all around better for what it sounds like you need.

I have seen quite a few drivers play in oversized boxes, even some fi x's. Really, you are going to gain a good amount of efficiency. This means you wont need as much power for it to reach its limits. In an oversized box, too, you will be getting some insane low end. The box will generally play a little flatter but you wont have exactly tight bass compared to one in a smaller box.

do a center port for music. From what i have seen, center port will sound better for music.

hypnotize is in that range. the first bass line is high 30's i believe, second bass line is 34hz..... which is where i peaked then it goes into the 40's or whatever that higher note is.

Hey, What are some numbers you guys have been hitting with you Rl-p's.... whether it may be for straight SPL use or just a daily driver and got it metered. I didn't really find any numbers of the Rl-p's and searching didnt help really. If you could, name Car it was in, power, box, and size of Rl-p's.

I'm on the poor side of using equipment. I have home depot cut the large pieces, then i use a circular saw for the smaller stuff. I use a level as a straight edge to get straight cuts. Then i use a saber saw for holes, i dont have a router yet. I use tite bond or pro bond for glue.... better than liquid nails because they are made for wood and liquid nails is made for many things. Use wood screws, deckmate's are the way to go;) And you dont need to go crazy with screws, they are only there to hold the box together until the glue sets, which is what mainly holds the box together. For braces, i use dowell or for high powered installs, i got with threaded rod usually.

All i have to say is enclosure design is everything. Don't get too cought up in drivers that are close to the same and the t/s specs of the drivers.

I was told the Eclipse has Pause on the remote, so I am ok with that. As long as i have the CD read before I get up into the lane, running slow wont bother me.

I might want to get an Eclipse CD8445 and get rid of my Alpine CDA-9851. The Eclipse has a ton more tuning features and the 8v pre-outs. But, you guys seem to not like the Eclipse... should I get one, or no?

woooooot!! Fi is here!!! Welcome.

The only reason I still am keeping my Alpine is because it has a pause button!! And Pause buttons aren't even on the controller's on other head unit's too.

I watched all of it, thought it was pretty sweet. Maybe better design for the sub?? And don't use a sun roof car next time!!! That 161.2 at 16hz was sweet... you could see the car shaking like crazy!!

Meany!!! No need to abuse them lil guys, they never did anything to you now, did they!!

When i looked at the standings for just USA in Street B for DB Drag, you gotta be over 150 to be in the top 30, and that is just in the USA. Street A is easier(well duhh) and so is Street C for some reason. Single 15" or Dual 12" i would say are one of the most common setups right now.

mmmmmm.... that should be awesome. I can't wait to find out the results.

what equipment are you going to run, i want to know!!!!

What meter was being used when you got the RL-p metered and what kind of car??

Just play the sub at lower to moderate volumes. I just go through listening to different music so it plays all different kinds of stuff. Some people use test tones, sweeps and stuff like that. But the key issue is to make sure you give the sub a couple many hours(some say 10 hours is a good amount) of lower to moderate volumes to let it loosen up.

Ya know what, some person actually did use a Jackhammer for competition. I read about it somewhere, dont remember though, but he built a huge enclosure for it, got tons of power for it, and let's just say everyone laughed at him when he did a run. I don't know any scores though, I wish I did.

Since when did you start offering 12" rl-i's??

I was reccommended once to run 2 DD 2512a's because in most cases, both of them would be better than have a 9500 series i guess. They are Dual 4ohm and I think you could get them new for that price. Maybe a single RE SX... but because of the price hike, you will probably have to find a used one. That is all I can think of at the moment....

how about you venture in the car audio world... venture real far... like a good spl sub that is easy on the wallet... eh, eh....

I would pass on the Alpines because they are losing more and more features every year. The Pioneer 680mp will have plenty of features for you. That Pioneer has more tuning than that lower end Eclipse there. I have heard the new Panasonics are getting to be really nice and well built and as the Kenwoods are pretty nice too. Overall though, I would reccommend the Pioneer 680mp, I actually want one myself once i can sell off my Alpine.