MONSONwarrior

It's not "bad" wire. It's simply fact that the Kolossus Flecks carries more current than the KCA. The Copper wire will run cooler and carry more current. If you want to run KCA that's fine, just don't push it to it's limits. If you want a sports car, buy a sports car. If you want a gas saver, buy a gas saver. Can't have both. Well I'm just trying to figure out if I will be okay, I'll be running it to 3 Shuriken BT120's and running a new AQ3500d and AQ4x90 off it, so around 450a of draw at full tilt. You wanna run a potential 450 amps into a wire with a 250 amp fuse? Just think about that for a second... I wouldn't actually be running 450a through this wire though, seeing as how my alt only gives out 250a...

It's not "bad" wire. It's simply fact that the Kolossus Flecks carries more current than the KCA. The Copper wire will run cooler and carry more current. If you want to run KCA that's fine, just don't push it to it's limits. If you want a sports car, buy a sports car. If you want a gas saver, buy a gas saver. Can't have both. Well I'm just trying to figure out if I will be okay, I'll be running it to 3 Shuriken BT120's and running a new AQ3500d and AQ4x90 off it, so around 450a of draw at full tilt.

Why would KCA be so bad if Knu rates it at 250a and Kolossus is rated at 300a? I'm in this same debate and it's about double the price to run Kolossus. My alt only does 250a so I figure I'd be okay to do my runs of power and ground with KCA since I won't be pushing more than 250a through it?

Better make this box rigid or it will shake the shit out of your gun and cup holders.

Damn, I've always said eff-eye

What is that box covered in? I love it.

You will lose low end by doing this but your TL numbers will gain. Generally as a daily driver I'd do sub and port back and as long as there's room around the box for the sound to pass into the cabin you'll be okay.

Amperes = Volts/Ohms Amperes = Watts/Volts

I did a little testing on my alt and I drop to 13.8 at the alt when playing full tilt and 13.2 at the amp so my cable drop isn't too bad. So far the DB Electrical alt has been doing great and keeping up with my system demands but can anyone help me with how many batts I will need in the back and what kind? I'll restate the fact I was looking at doing 3 Deka 9a31's for 400 bucks but am open to other things and wanna stay under 600.

This is only temp. I've only got a couple more months on this set up until I have the funds to run the new one. It'll be Knu 0 gauge, the battery bank we should be discussing here, (2) Fi BTL N2's, AQ3500 and AQ4x90

what does your voltage drop to? I don't drop below 14 at stop lights with my AP1500, and that thing isn't the most efficient in the world.

Daily and comps but mostly daily.

I currently have 4 gauge for my AP because that's all it accepts but the 4500 will have 0 gauge. Even with my 4 gauge the meter at my amp reads 14's at full tilt. But for future reference the AQ3500 does 4300 @ 1 ohm and 14.4v.

Yes, from an AP1500 to an AQ3500

I current have a 250a DB Electrical alt installed with a Deka 9a78DT as my front battery running 1500 watts. At idle I drop to around 13.9 and when cruising I stay right at 14.5 volts. Now I want to run 4300 in the near future and need to know how many batteries and what batteries would be best. I'm kinda thinking three Deka 9a31's but am open to other things and am willing to buy used. I want to try and stay around 600 for all of them so gimme an idea for how many and what I should get.