BKOLFO4

Sorry, I did not see you posted again. I was thinking as long as that box is, I woudl make a couple of window braces out of those extra pieces and use them inside the enclosure. See line 2 in post #12.

Tuning it "too low" is not a problem. . . .Tuning it too high is. You either end up with the lowest notes missing, or you try to play them and end up with woofer damage. . . My box in my suburban with (4) Avalanche 15's (not the wall) started tuned to 32 Hz. As I wanted to increase my numbers on the meter, I tried 35 Hz and 38 Hz. 38 Hz was louder on 40+ Hz notes, but there were definitely songs that were missing lower output with it tuned to 38 hz vs. 32 hz. If you want numbers, tune higher, if you are playing music, I would not tune over 34-35 Hz. Brian

What drivers, how many, and how much power????

I have used both in 2 different setups. Direct comparisons with same amps, same box, etc. Just swapped woofers. In both setups, there were 2 differences: 1. The BTL's were slightly louder on the meter (4 15" on 16000 watts were .7 dB louder) 2. Mayhem's peaked ~6 Hz lower and sounded louder to the ear playing music. I had people get in my truck that could tell a noticable difference playing music, and would never believe that the BTL's were actually louder. I tell all my customers - If SPL numbers on a meter are your #1 goal, buy a BTL. If you want an awesome daily beater, buy the Mayhem. PM me your zip code and I can get you dealer info. Brian

How about this: ~4 cuft net tuned to 32 Hz 16" h x 40" w x 20" d Port is 14.5" x 4", 30" long. To get 30", you make the side port wall so it extends into the box until it is 4" from the back wall, then add a piece 10" long running parallel to the back wall. Box is .75" thick, except the baffle is 1.5" thick. Those dimensions allow for ~0.5 cuft to add 45's to the corners and bracing. If you don't use all of it, or you use a little more, it will still work great.

That RE calculator is BAD. Has a lot of problems if the port requires a 90 degree bend. Post up the dimensions for the box and someone can check them. . .

You can put the ports on one of the sides. Since it is under your screen, I woudl face the driver out into the room so you can see it

Even if you get more watts to it, things change with power handling when you are tuned lower. I would build it the larger size if you have the room. . .

~5 cuft tuned to 25 Hz. If you have the room, you can go 49" wide (width of a sheet of MDF, so you can still build from 1 sheet). With the 49" width, change the port lengths to 22" and you will end up with 6.7 cuft tuned to 25 Hz. Will add some output, since you are only going to run 300 watts to it. You will still be well below it's mechanical limits. Brian

How about 20" high x 16" deep x 39.5" wide? Cut list: (2) 18.5 x 39.5 (2) 16 x 39.5 (4) 18.5 x 14.5 You would just cut (3) holes in the end of the enclosure that are the same size as the outer diameter of the pipe. Slide the pipe into the holes until it is flush with the side of the box and then use liquid nails inside the box to hold it in place.

How about (4) pieces 16" x 44" for the 4 sides (makes the box 16" x 17.5" x 44" high) (4) pieces 16" x 14.5" to use as the top, bottom, and a couple of window type braces. Sub facing down or on the side (does not matter). (3) 4" PVC pipes, 23" long for 28 Hz (why did you choose 28 Hz?). They can go in the top. Only change I would make would be tune it to 25 Hz using 30" pipes and make the enclosure 45.5" high. Either design can be built with 1 sheet of wood. Brian

Ported should be no problem. . .I would be happy to draw out some plans. Simple box with (3) 4" PVC pipes would do the trick and be a nice improvement over sealed.

Why not run it ported???

It has been explained over and over - The DMM reads DC resistance, not AC impedance. . .1.2 ohm DC resistance does not mean it is a Dual 1 ohm sub. Normally a Dual 2 will read 1.4 DCR on each coil, but a DMM torlerance could explain that. Did you make sure the DMM reads 0 when you touch the leads together? If it does, then you have more than likely have a Dual 2 ohm coil sub. If it reads something other than 0, you may have less than 1.2 ohms DCR and may have a Dual 1 ohm sub. You more than likely are clipping the amp trying to get more output from it. You are comparing a single sub setup to other multi-sub setup. I would guess you are also turning the volume up higher trying to get more output from this single XXX? The XXX is not a high SPL sub, so that is another strike against it that make me think you may be clipping the amp trying to get the XXX to be as loud as the other setups. Is this 3 different amps in 3 different vehicles that you have hooked the XXX to and they all got hot, or one amp in one vehicle and you have tried these 3 different subwoofer setups on it?

I buy mine at Parts Express. . .

Ports will have to go in facing rearward, since they will be 17" long and need 4" of clearance behind them to allow proper airflow. Need dimensions on that honda to come up with something. . . Brian

I see you replied while I was typing. . . If you already have the subs and want to run ported, use (4) 4" aero ports x 17" long (full length). That would leave you with ~6.8 cuft tuned to 32-33 Hz. I bet you would like that over sealed.

Q's or BL's, that box would be on the small side for a pair of 15's ported at 30 Hz. With minimal port area and only 3/4 material for the entire box, you be left with less than 6 cuft NET volume with a 30 Hz tuning. Just a quick approximation: 20.5 x 17.5 x 37 ~ 7.7 cuft - driver displacement leaves ~7.4 cuft. With a minimal 17.5 x 5 port area, the port gets out to ~40 long for 30 Hz tuning with only ~5 cuft left. I woudl run a pair of 12" BL's ported if that is what you have to work with. Brian

.5 ohms will more than likely require more input power to the amp, as most amp's efficiencies drop as the output impedance is decreased. This means you need MORE batteries/alt to run at .5 ohms. The cone will move less at tuning, but there is normally more output just above tuning. . .With 2000 watts and a 32 Hz tune, you can burp at any frequency above tuning and you will be just fine. I agree with the AQ2200 or Sundown 2000D. Ethier one will be great and you can run at 1 ohm.

1" MDF with 1" double baffle and no other bracing besides rabbit joints which I still am not sure if to use .25". 37 width x 28.72 depth (29.72 with baffle) x 20.5 height Displacement: .26 Port L x W: 18.5 x 6.5 Port area: 120.25 Box volume total: 7.776 -.26 = 7.516 @ 31.86 hz. Box looks pretty good. RE calc seems to always be a little off. I come up with ~28-29 inch long port. You can run the port wall into the box so it is 6.5" from the back wall, and you will be good. End up with 7.6 cuft tuned to ~32 Hz. Should I position the sub evenly or leave it to the opposite side of the port? Even is fine. Looks better. If I burp at 32hz how much power do you think it'd take and is that the safest burp freq? You burp based on the peak factoring in the vehicle cabin too. It will not be the port tuning frequency. If you are just worried about a burp score, you have a lot of testing to do. If you will play music, tune to 32-35 Hz, then test and find the peak for your burp. Should I run the wires tightly through the port? Why run them through the port? Drill a hole in the box, run the wires through, and seal the hole. Should I use a foam seal? For what? I've seen on youtube people are throwing 3500w at them, and meade 7500w? How long will that last? Can you safely go over 2000W without hearing drastic changes in sound quality? 2k is more than enough for daily. They can definitely handle more if you have the electrical system to back it up. . . How do these perform below port tuning and do they sound drastically different at that point? They don't. No sub does. If you want lower, tune lower or you will be back here with a topic "My BTL stopped working"

I can answer this question!!! Oh, pick me, pick me!!!! Answer: Nick hsa said it many times - You will know about it when it is ready. No preorders, no hints, they just announce it when it is ready. Steve let the word out about SMD subs, then the designed changed and there was a long delay. Not normal practice for Fi/AA. . .Bet that won't happen again. . .

If you take another video, hold the camera still for 3-4 seconds at a time. hard to see what is going on with the camera constantly moving. . . Inspect all of the joints to make sure they are ok - Where the spider sits on the basket and where the voice coil is attached to the cone. If you look in the vent holes where the basket meets the top plate, does the voice coil look ok?

Flying J truck stops??? I work for Pana-Pacific Corp. We supply several different types of electronics to Flying J. . . I have been working in the automotive electrical/electronics industry for 14 years. Peterbilt Motors, Ford, Delphi. . .I currently work for a small company, Pana Pacific, as the on-site engineer for PACCAR trucks (Peterbilt and Kenworth). We supply radios, speakers, antennas, nav units, inverters, keyless entry, tire pressure monitor, etc. to all of the Class 8 truck, Ag, and Bus market. I also work with Hardcore Customs doing HT and car audio installs. Brian

AA Chaos would also be a great choice.

Always predrill!!! Predrill also prevents the wood from busting apart as the screw comes out the back side!