BKOLFO4

I run my BTL's in 3 ft^3 each tuned to 35 Hz. Sound AWESOME!

x2

I just read your question!!! I am using MB Quart components in the front doors on 380 RMS Polk db series in the middle doors on 300 RMS Clarion plates in the wall on 200 RMS All the mid/highs speakers and amps are MTX Thunder amps I bought in 2000 still going strong! they are definitely loud. Multiple people at Heatwave and at the last local show I was at commented on the fact that the bass was so loud, but yet it still sounded like music. . . Brian

I will be out of town

I am on the East side of denton about 2 miles before Loop 288. Not far from you Porchpup

x2. An amp that normally produces 70 watt RMS, even fully clipped should not be enough to hurt that driver. Clipping is not what hurts the driver - it is the fact that the RMS power can increase theoretically to match the peak power if the output becomes a square wave at the peak voltage without damaging the amp. If he had a 800-1000 watt amp and clipped it hard enough, there could be damage. A 70 watt amp clipped hard enough should hurt the amp before it hurts an avalanche. http://www.forceaudio.com/showthread.php?t=15 "Normalized power was a little more interesting. We could not prove within the scope of our test that a different signals of normalized power would have any different effects on the driver, regardless of the amount of cone excursion. Some people may still argue this, but it seemed pretty clear to us that weather a square or sine was put into a driver at a normalized power level, it still failed about evenly. An extra test.... Remember when some people say "It doesn't even matter if it is only a few watts, if it's pure distortion, it will ruin your woofers".... Well we took a 10 watt square wave and ran it into a Pioneer 10" subwoofer for a few hours.... Nothing happened to it, of course, the motor didn't even get hot...." In this test, they showed a driver could be driven with a sine wave or square wave without damage. . . A woofer does not know if it is receiving distortion or not (heck, most rock music has distortion added anyway, right?). If you are not going beyond the mechanical or thermal limits, it should not hurt the driver. Maybe if you were clipping it hard enough, the equipment you were using to take the voltage and current readings was not acurate. . . BTW - I have run the avalanche on 1400 watts in my suburban without any problems. Brian

With that amp, just keep the BL!!!!

What is your amp rating, or what amp do you have? I thought you said above it is 1500 watts. . . You have a single BL with dual 2 ohm coils wired in parallel for a 1 ohm load, correct? If it is a true 1500 watts RMS, you need to see 38-39 volts on the output. 54 volts at 1 ohm would be 3000 watts. . . . Brian

You have a dual two ohm sub wired in parallel. That is 1 ohm. If you are running the amp bridged, it is seeing 0.5 per channel!! You need to wire the sub coils in series. Positive from the amp to positive on coil one of the sub. negative on coil one of the sub to positive of coil two on the sub. negative on coil two of the sub back to the negative on the amp.

What impedance are the Diamond subs, and how are the wired to the amp???? What impedance are the BL coils and how are they wired to the amp???? Sorry, but it is obvious from your posts so far that you better get help before you continue. You are going to blow the amp, sub, or both. . . . 4000 watts to a sub freeair that is rated way under that. . . 4000 watts from an amp with 80 amps of fuse. . . Provide a specific model number of the amp, the voice coil impedance of the BL you have, and how you have it wired. Sounds like you may have the amp running below the rated minimum load. . .If you have the coils in parallel and the amp running bridged, there may be a problem.

1.5 ohms is the DC Resistance. DC Resistance is not what your amp will see. It will see impedance which is 2 ohms nominal, not 1.5. if you put a DC current through the coil, or look at the resistance with a DMM, you will see 1.5 ohms. If you measure the resistance playing an AC source, you will see a resistance higher than 1.5 ohms. It will vary with frequency, but should not fall below 2 ohms. On top of that, when the sub is in the box, you get impedance rise, which will make the impedance the amp sees even higher, many times almost double at some frequencies. One of my favorite posts was a guy who said: "1.5 is the resistance, and 2 ohms is the resistance with your speaker wire". Brian

I have run several brands and models of subs. MTX, Kicker, Panasonic, RE, Fi, TC, Ascendant, Orion, Blueprint, and the list goes on. . . In my vehicle, the BTL's are my favorite so far. . . .

I would not think so in an IB setup.

Above, you say they are dual 2 ohm coils, but them you say dual .75. Are the subs dual .75 DC resistance, as in actually dual 1 ohm impedance coils? If you wire in series, it will see the 2 ohm rating. And with impedance rise with the subs in the box, it may actually be a little higher. . . As far as the voltage on the amps output, it should be the same if it is a decent amp that doubles its output as the load impedance is cut in half. you have to watch out when you start going below the rated minimum impedance - most amps will not double thier power again, so you have to calculate for the gain you actually get. Some times the voltage will actually drop due to the increase in current. Example: 2000 watts @ 1 ohm = 44.72 volts 1000 watts @ 2 ohms = 44.72 volts 500 watts @ 4 ohms = 44.72 volts

If someone wants to buy me (4) Dual 1 ohm recone kits, I can try to get pictures. . . .

No. . .

The TC 3000 was one of the drivers I looked at when I decided to move away from the MT's and go with something new. They look nice, but I kept thinking back to my TC experience. . . My previous experience with TC was the Stryke AV15's when they were first built by TC for John. Not to bash the 3000 driver, but here was my experience with TC: Ordered AV15's on preorder. Received them after the long wait and was excited to try them out. First time I played them, I bottomed them multiple times before the advertised Xmax on not much power. Set up a jig to measure, and the coil was bottoming 6 mm before the advertised Xmax. Called John. He verified and determined TC built the entire first shipment with the coil wound wrong. Now the good part - I sent them in for recone. Called them multiple times, they ended up moving and lost my drivers, so they eventually had to send 3 new ones. Got them back ONE YEAR after I sent them in. All three were put together so the (+) and (-) terminals on one coil were backwards. Had to test and determine which one was wrong and mark it so I would always know. Still did not have the correct coil clearance for advertised Xmax, but I was not about to deal with sending it in again. Sold all three. There were a few other drivers I considered too, but all the time was thinking the BTL would be similar in sound to the MT (and it is with a little more low end in my setup), which I really like for a daily beater. Brian

32 is as low as I would go, and I am VERY happy with 35. . . and I have run MT's at 40!!!! Brian

5.85 include the driver displacement? I would cut the port down to 80 inches, gain the extra box space, and it would lower the tuning frequency.

It is 5.85 ft^3, but you have another problem - If it was calculated to be tuned to 30 Hz based on 8 ft^3, it is now tuned much higher since it came out to be 5.85. Post measurements so we can calculate what you have. You may have to block off part of the port. It will become part of the enclosure, and the smaller port will lower the tuning frequency. You only need 80-90 in^2 of port area. You can tune as high as 34-35Hz and still have plenty of low end bass with a BTL 18. . . .

In most cases, you get a better tweeter and better crossovers with components, and the tweeter over the woofer also causes a funky response if you happen to be on axis with the driver (usually not the case in a car). 90% of the tri-axials I have heard sound terrible compared to the coaxial in the same series. Normally, they are not crossed over correctly and you end up with a top end that is too bright for me. But I guess that is some peoples preference. Your best bet is to not listen to what I or other have to say. Go listen to actual speakers and decide for yourself. . .You will spend the most time in your car, so get what sounds good to you! Brian

Where did you find that guy in the pictures and video????

Man dude!! Hope the finger gets better fast!!!

1.5 is the DC resistance. The driver's impedance playing music will be 2 ohms per coil. Set your output voltage based on the amp's 1 ohm output spec. Brian