BKOLFO4

I like port and subs facing rearward.

Here is a new design with the sub and port rearward. I experimented with my suburban and liked the sub rearward. To me it sounded better playing music. . .If you want the sub to be on top, let me know and I will make a couple of quick changes to move it to the top. Brian

Sorry, the box shoudl be 20" deep. I was thinking about the box designs I did for the Q 12's today. 49" x 20" x 20" makes for 7 ft^3 tuned to 32 Hz with a little over 100 in^2 of port.

How about 49" wide (perfect fit) x 20" tall x 20" deep. Port will be 18.5" tall x 5.5" wide. Sub and port facing rearward. It works great. had a setup very close to this in my suburban with a RE XXX 18. Brian

For a 12", yes.

2007 Us Amps MD3D for $400 shipped

This box will work great that I posted. Make it 28" wide and 14.5" tall - depth is still 18 and the rear port wall is still 10" long. Makes 2.3 ft^3 tuned to 32-33 Hz. Brian

How about a 2007 US Amps MD3D new in the box for $400 shipped? 2000 x 1 RMS @ 1 ohm.

If you are worried about the Xmax, just add the long coil and third magnet. I think it says that bumpes the Xmax of the BTL to 27mm? Xmax is good to have, but the BTL has other differences. Higher BL force, more spiders, a higher 1 watt SPL and will handle a lot more power vs. the BL. If the enclosure is designed correctly, Xmax is only part of what makes a good woofer. Brian

What is the tuning of the 3.25 ft^3, and how much power are you running?

Friend got one. Got the message from PE on back order and will not see it until end of January . . .

Are you mixing them with the one(s) you have?? If not, for a daily beater, just order them dual 1's with: Pchamfer: NO Cooling: YES 3rdmagnet: YES HiXmCoil: YES Daily or SPL: DAILY Universal: YES If you are mixing them and want the exact same thing, post on meade's forum. I am sure he would know how they were built. Brian

13" - .75" - .75" = 11.5" You need a hole that is 11.125" and the sub is 12.5", so it should fit. Brian

Good idea. . .

Since you have room, you could make that box 1" taller. . . .everything else the same. Would give you 2.5 ft^3 tuned to 31-32 Hz.

That box will work. Mount the sub in the center of the doubled piece between the port opening and opposite wall.

what vehicle is this going in?

Sub cutout is only 11.125, and the sub outer diameter is 12.5, so the 13" baffle will work fine. The box above is 2.25 ft^3 tuned to 32 Hz. A 3" wide port and a 7" long rear port wall with a 19" box depth is 2.18 ft^3 tuned to 36 Hz. Go ahead and make the the box depth 19.75". You will then have 2.3 ft^3 tuned to 35 Hz. Brian

I can throw one togther for you. you have more than enough airspace. . . .do you want me to cut length, width, height, or a combination of all three from you max dimension? I did this box in another thread that would work for you: It is tuned around 32 Hz. If you want to tune lower, the port could be extended and a little width added to keep the same net airspace. You have enough airspace for a pair of Q's Let me know. Brian

Build it as above, but change the width from 30" to 28" and the depth from 18" to 19" Change the 10" port wall to 9". Brian

If 3 ft^3 includes the port and driver displacement, you need the 12. If you have 3 ft net after port and driver displacement, you can use a 15.

this should work: Brian

More than enough room to go ported. 48 x 18 x 18 works great. Build it out of 3/4" material, double the side with the subs on it to make it 1.5" thick. I would use (3) 4" aero ports 13.5" long. That would be around 6.5 ft^3 net tuned to 32 Hz. Add a couple of window braces between the drivers and you should be good to go.

I think he was saying (6) 4" ports. Note he said (4) 4" and then he said (6). Parenthesis to me would mean quantity. . .

Fi subs are awesome. . . Yes, wire the coils on each sub in series and then parallel all 3 subs for 2.7 ohms. How much height and depth are you willing to give up? Go ported if you can. . . .