BKOLFO4

But it looks good.

I did not get stickers with my subs. . . Did you send my SE recone out yet? Maybe I could get one with it. . .

Just finished these for my cousin. They are Murphyblaster Usher 2-ways on top and Tang Band 8" on the bottom. http://murphyblaster.com/content.php?f=usher2way.html Cabinets are built similar to my NCMS Rhythms. 2.25" fronts, 1.5" on other sides, internally braced. Drivers flush mounted. The top half of the inside of the cabinet is coated with a mix of 1/2 premix dry wall compound and 1/2 tacky glue. Cabinets are more than "dead". Outside is covered in black ash laminate. The front baffle is spaced 1/8" to allow painting with a good end for the laminate. Also looks cool if you know much about cabinets, because you can tell how thick the fronts are. . . Here is the Rhythm MTM cabinet design: My finished speakers: I will know how they sound tomorrow.

Got to listen to them for the first time this morning. They sound awesome. Dennis did a good job on the Usher 2-way design, and the Tang Band 8's are awesome. The 15" subwoofer has not been but yet, and honestly, it may not be needed. I have never heard 8's sound like these. . . Brian

Yes. Rear port tuned to around 32 Hz. The amp that will be used on them will have a 30 Hz subsonic filter and a 15" sub will be used with them. edit - and they will be bi-amped. 120 x2 for the 2-ways, 280 x 2 on the 8's.

They might could recone them with a lower inmpedance, but if you are asking because of the "dual 1.5" listed in the Fi driver parameters, you need to understand that is the DC resisitance of the coil. The nominal impedance is actually Dual 2 ohm when playing music. The impedance will actually vary with frequency, but the driver is not a dual 1.5 ohm driver. . . Brian

Not really. I think I took one pic of the inside of the cabinet before I attached the baffle, but I deleted it. Brian

11 net, after sub and port displacement? If so, then you should be ok. If you mean 11 ft before you subtract driver and port displacement, then I would use a pair of 15". Brian

I run (4) 15" BTL's in a little under 12 ft^3 tuned to 35 Hz. Works great. How much port area, and what tuning?

Looks great man!!!

And the BTL's handle a 40.1 for LONG periods of time without getting hot ScottieJ has a few 40.1's for sale. . .

I posted a couple of times on your CA thread. You said you bought the sub used. Looks to me like it has already been "repaired". The lead is too short. I would guess it was broke and resoldered back to the terminal. Should have been replaced, but it was repaired good enough to sell it. . . I am sure Scott will send you new lead or repair it for a fair price if you send it back. From the looks of the spider, I would have a complete recone done.

That Lanzar is long gone. I saw it for sale on caraudio.com not long ago. . . I almost bought (4) Lanzar OPTI6000D's, but decided to run (4) IA 40.1's. With my setup, I am not sure which one would have been better, but the 40.1's were less $$$, and I know they are VERY reliable, so I went with them. I had (8) US Amps MD3D's for about a year, but sold them to buy the 40.1's. Yes, that is my wall with (4) Loaded Fi BTL 15's. Brian

Yes, a dual 2 ohm BTL with that amp would be a nice setup. With that amp, you could get away with a couple of nice batteries. Follow that with a HO alt and you should be good. I ran 4000+ watts on (2) optimas under the hood and the stock alt for a long time. . . Brian

Over 1500 @ 0.5 ohms for burps only. Otherwise, pretty close to 1500 @ 1 ohm for daily. I had one for a long time. My cousin still has it. Nice amps.

Man that is just awesome. Great job!!!

Is there anything special about that CA glue, or is it the same kind you can get at a hooby shop? Can you still ship the activator? That is the best part for doing a recone. Instant hold!!! Brian

I would run a 1500D with a pair of dual 1 ohm drivers. Wire the coils on each sub in series, and then parallel the pair of subs. 6 ft^3 should be enough gross volume to do a nice ported setup. maybe 5 ft^3 net volume with a pair of 4" aero ports. . . Brian

3.25 tuned to 38 Hz is going to be a loud box up around 40-45 Hz. what are your goals? If you are looking for more low end, I would try for 4.5 ft^3 tuned to 32 Hz. What type of music do you listen to? Brian

He said above they are two slugs (no third magnet or high Xmax coil) and cooling. . . select daily and universal like this: Pchamfer: NO Cooling: YES 3rdmagnet: NO HiXmCoil: NO Daily or SPL: DAILY Universal: YES Like I said, I would add the third magnet and high xmax coil, even though the ones you have don't have those options. . . .

the box after displacement is 4.9 ft^3 tuned to 32 Hz. The 4.75" dimension you have on the rear of the port is only 2.75" unless you add a piece parallel to the back of the box 2" long - then it would be 4.75". As it is now, you have 1/2 the port width + .75" = 2.75" Box should work, but if you have anymore room, I would shoot for something closer to 6.5 ft^3 with 80-100 in^2 of port area tuned to 32 Hz.

Had two mustangs. New models have thick rear seats that fold down. Best bass without cutting is going to be the subs front, ports front with the rear seats folded down. If you are going to do subs up, you need at least 2" of clearance on the top side of the box for the subs. So are you saying the total height of the box with the subs installed can only be 12"?? Brian

I Have an 07 US Amps MD3D for sale NIB for $400 shipped. 2000 x 1 and 0.5 ohm stable.

Why is that? Doubled baffle and the mounting flange of the sub will actually hang over the top and bottom piece. It will not be a problem. Just make sure you predrill the sub mounting screws. If you really want the subs on top, I will need to make a slight change, since the front piece will not need to be doubled.

To change a sub to dual 1's, it has to be reconed. You cannot buy the sub he alrady has from Chicken's ride as a dual 1 unless he recones it. Are you adding to the subs you already have, or replacing them? Is this for an SPL application, or for daily?