BKOLFO4

I think you are in luck. . .I am pretty sure Scott told me the dual 2 ohm gap is the universal gap. The dual 1 ohm gap is the smaller gap that a dual 2 ohm will not fit in if you do not get the universal option. Brian

you have to predrill the holes for the screws. I use an 18 ga air nailer, build up three sides, then go back to predrill and screw. Then I add a piece at a time using the air nailer to hold it in place so I can predrill and screw. I will draw something up in the morning and post it. Brian

The overall dimensions I posted above are the outer dimensions. . . If you are going to build as drawn with a double baffle (not sure why I said 19.25" deep above - should be 18.75), you would have: (2) 18.75x16.5 for the sides (1) 32.5x16.5 for the back (2) 28.25x16.5 for the baffle (1) 13.75x16.5 for one of the port sides (1) 11x16.5 for the other port side (1) 18.75x34 for the top and bottom

How much port area right now? Is the goal better daily sound, or higher metered SPL? What do you not like about what you have right now?

You could try either one of these. Did this quick. . I better go back and double check my math and calculations. . . Double the top (1.5"), 3/4" all other walls. Port opening is 28 x 3.5 in both cases. top picture the sub and port are both up. bottom picture is sub up, port rear.

Post up some dimensions in the back of that explorer, and I will create a box design they can build. $400 for a box/fake wall is not a bad price, if you actually want a wall. . . What were they goign to charge to just build a box? Where are you located?

The baffle is the side of the box the woofers mount to. Use 2 pieces of 3/4" glued together. Brian

If you built 36 x 16 x 20 with the baffle 1.5" thick (internal would be 34.5 x 14.5 x 17.75), you could use a pair of 4" aero ports 13" long and have 4.6 ft^3 tuned to 32 Hz. Brian

I would vote for a pair of BTL 15's if you can spare the extra cash. If not, the single 18 will get the job done. I have run multiple single 18 setups in my suburban and have never been disappointed. Brian

What is the box you have now?? Would be nice to know to make sure a new box is going to make much difference. I personally would keep the subs and port(s) on the same side of the box. . . Brian

Can't tell you for sure. . .too many variables. Have to build, test, modify (or rebuild), test, modify, test, etc. . . Someone might have a good starting point for you if you post up what vehicle, what type of enclosure you have in mind (wall, box, bandpass, etc.), how much power you will have, what type of competition (bass race, outlaw SPL, legal SPL, etc.). Brian

BTL's with the 3rd magnet, long coil and daily option sound pretty darn good. Great for daily beating.

The single driver will handle the 4000 watts if you know what you are doing. If you plan on driving around with it full volume all the time, (2) 15's will fit in the same airspace as a single 18 and will handle 2000 watts each all day long. . . .

Were there many people running the "Hz" classes? I hope I am ready by the March show. . . .fingers crossed for 158 @ 38-40 Hz. Brian

(2) BL's for sure. . . you should have bought a pair of my BTL 15's!!!

With the power I have, yes they do great. . .

I went from (2) 18's to (4) 15's. . . .15's are much louder for daily driver.

I run mine in 3 ft^3 tuned to 35 Hz with no problems. . .

I am going to say around 62-63 lbs. I know when I have shipped the 18's like that, the shipping weight in the "crate" ends up being around 72 lbs.

I am going by testing done by Lloyd Lowery (BigBassMan on most forums). . . I know at one time David (TeamPSI) was running (2) MT 15's with (4) 4" flared ports (48 in^2) doing 154+ and no problems. Calculate that out, and I think he should have around 115 in^2 with those two drivers. I have run a MT 15 on 4000 watts with a pair of 4" aeros with no problems. I have a bandpass box under my desk with a 10" driver and a 3.5" port (9.5 in^2, but it is largest that will fit). In a bandpass, that should have 25+ in^2. Sounds terrible with an open end, but I designed and had tooled a flared end for the 3.5" tube. Slide the flare over the end of the tube, all noise is gone, and it sounds great. I am not saying it is always the best solution, and for metered SPL I would want the full required port area. For daily bumping with tight space, a 4" aero port should be fine. . . Brian

You have two amps and one sub with two coils. You wire each amp to one of the coils on the sub. Wiring the inputs would depend on you amp and headunit. Might be able to just daisy chain the inputs, you might have to buy a Y-spliter, or maybe your H/U has (2) subwoofer outputs. . . Brian

I am not sure if you will see much difference. . . . But you could always get a second amp and run one on each coil Brian

Use the 4" aero, it will be enough port. Calculate the length based on the 4" diameter, and then add 1" for the end correction.

The TA7801 makes max power at 1 ohm. Buy a dual 1 ohm sub and connect one amp to each voice coil. Brian

That box looks great for either sub. . . .