BKOLFO4

I have been running mine for a couple of months at 0.5 (0.35 DCR) and I LOVE to play them full power. No problems at all. Man they make some series power at 0.5. You can pick them up used around $700-750 - worth every penny Man nick, I hope you don't have something coming that is going to make we want to change amps. . . I am finally almost happy with my system.

If you have 14cf, I would do (4) 15" BL's Brian

This will work: 2.25 ft^3 tuned to 33 Hz. Brian

But if you don't run at least 5000 watts to a BTL it will not sound good. . . .HAHAHA If you have room, (2) will be awesome on 4000 watts. At the same time, I beat the crap out of mine on 4000+ each all the time and don't have a problem. If I get the volume up where I know the amps are clipping, I smell the coils every once in a while. If I keep the power clean, I have played them full power for long periods of time without any problems. Brian

How much depth do you actually have? The top pretty much needs to be 36" deep for (4) 15's to fit. . .How much clearance is there from the back of the box to the rear door? I ask, because with subs facing up, and port facing rearward, you need room for the port to breathe. You could do 48" wide x 36" deep x 25" high. Make the top 1.5" thick, and a few brace pieces to sturdy up the sides. The port would face rearward. The opening would be 40" x 6.25" and needs to be 25" long (use the bottom of the box as one of the port walls). You would need 6+ inches between the box and the rear door. Brian

I cannot come up with 1.27. If those are internal dimensions, you get 14.75 * 12 * 15 = 1.54 - .16 (drive displacement) = 1.38 ft^3 If those are external dimensions, you get 13.25 * 10.5 * 13.5 = 1.09 - .16 (drive displacement) = .93 ft^3 Maybe they are internal dimensions and there is also bracing, but either one will work. Brian

I can draw something up for you. Need to clarify. . . .You have a length and a width, is width side to side (left to right), and length is depth (front to back)? Do you want the sub on top of the box, or facing forward?

They have already told you. . . More motor strength in the daily universal version than the old SPL version had. More motor strength = more output. Brian

I did a box design for you, but cannot PM you. . . . Brian

How much for a recone?

PM me details. . .

(2) 4" is not enough for a BTL 18". (2) 6" diameter x 17" long (full length) aero ports will work. The box would need to be 24" deep for proper clearance for the port inside the box. With those ports and driver displacement, you can shoot for 8 ft gross internal box volume. Let me know if that works.

Speaking of Texas Heat . . . Heatwave San Antonio - anyone going? Will be the first time I run my new setup in USACi Street Beat 4!!!

Just shy of 7 ft tuned to 32-33 Hz. The port length is correct with the corner piece. When you cut the corner piece, make sure you have 6" clearance accross the diagonal in the port (If you refresh, I updated the picture with the dimension). It will be a small piece (only 2-2.5"), and you can leave it out if it makes you feel better. Brian

I can model them 3D and make them to scale. Free gets you 5 minutes in MS Paint.

We are in Dallas, so we can sell to you If you liked SSA, you will love us. . .

This will work:

I'll do it for free. . .give me a minute. . .

That red suburban did a 149.9 the day I went against him. Too bad I did a 156.8 that day.

Here is Skip's living room: (4) Vifa DX25TG tweeters (32) Dayton 5.75" mids (8) Dayton Series II 12" woofers (1) Mach5Audio IXL18 subwoofer Carver TFM-55 380 x 2 watts RMS amplifier (2) Dayton 1000 watt RMS subwoofer amps New 53" LCD since the last picture.

I actually asked Scott about it, but he said this single magnet is already so strong, the difference would be minimal. I guess if it was a burp only setup, it might be worth it, but for daily bumping it would be a waste of money. . .sure would look cool!!!

I think we need a "second magnet" option

Definitely true. I have had a couple of boxes come apart, and the glue joint is fine - it splits the MDF just beyond the point where the glue soaked in. Brad nailer is great for "normal" applications, but for high powered crazy stuff, screws will be a better solutions. If I am going to screw a box together, I still brad nail on 10-12" spacing to hold the joint in place while I pre-drill and screw. One other point to consider - If you want the joint pulled really tight, it is not going to happen with the nailer like it will clamping or screwing it. Since I weigh a lot, I put a lot of weight on my box while I am using the brad nailer.

The 10 can run in a pretty small box and will sound GREAT. I did a HT with a pair of assassin 12's and a pair of 250 watt plate amps. It is awesome. . .

Thread extraction tools, and/or a reverse direction drill bit. . . Drill a hole in the center of the broken bolt and then use the extraction tool to remove it. I normally drill the small hole with a reverse direction drill bit, and many times the bolt will back out while I am drilling. . .