BKOLFO4

Does not look like the baffle will fit (3) 15's. . .

No sealed for BTL. Single magnet on the BTL > triple stack Might want an extra battery in there too.

Since the subs are mounted in the top, the double baffle just makes it stiffer so it will not vibrate with the sub. Do as Jim said and use titebond instead of liquid nails. You can go back after the box is built and use Liquid nails on the inside to seal it up and add strength. I nail my boxes together with an 18 ga nail gun. If the box is for high SPL, I go back and predrill holes and wood screw every 6-8". For most boxes, the wood will hold everything together. The only time I have run into a problem is when there is enough pressure in the box that it actually splits the MDF (the glue joints stays). edit - you will not need polyfill if the box has enough airspace. Brian

Man these things are SICK. Been running around for 2 hours now trying to break them in a little. . . Petey Pablo - Vibrate. Hard to keep your feet on the floor, too much vibration. My favorite bass race song on Crunk Juice CD is nuts. Hard to breathe while it is on. Got a little carried away one time with that song and could smell the coils a little. Once again, sick subs. Can't wait to get a little more break in on them and then meter. Brian

Calculate that box without slot port checked, and you will see it uses 1/2 whatever you put in for width. That is the calculator I use. What I have found building boxes and actually measuring the tuning frequency is that once you get over 4-5" in width, the slot effect changes in real life. A port is tuned based on resistance. The slot effect is nothing more than the resistance changing due to the added friction of the wall extending beyond the actual port. When the port gets wide enough, that addition resistance had less effect due to so much port area away from the wall. If I build a box with a port more than 6" wide, I calculate standard port length and then subtract 3". Works pretty good so far. . . Brian

One problem I see with all the crazy designs is that Fi does not post the t/s parameters for the subs with different options, so if you do not have the standard sub listed, Pete is using t/s parameters that may not be exactly right. Not saying he does not do some cool looking designs. . .just curious how he can be sure the designs are right for these subs.

The only hatch I have ever owned had (3) 10's sealed and it was LOUD!! I think the (2) 12's sealed woudl be more than enough. . .

A pair of 10's in the box dimensions above would work. Make a slot port on one end of the box that is 14.5 x 2.5. It will go into the box until it is 2.5" from the bottom and then turn and go another 16" With that box and amp, you could use SSD's or Q's You could also do a set of Q12's sealed in that box, which would sound really good. . .

I could fit (5) 12's on the baffle, but the load will be tough with your amp(s). Go with (4) 12's. 24 x 41 x 25 box. 22.5 x 6 port - 17.75" deep. If you run 1 amp, you could go with BL's with dual 1 ohm coils. You will have 8 coils. Wire 2 sets of 4 in series, then parallel the two sets for 2 ohms If you get a second amp, do BTL's with dual 2 ohm coils. Wire the coils on each sub in series, and then parallel each pair for two 2 ohm loads. Brian

Might work out ok. What are the box dimensions? What amp(s) do you have? Three 15's might work out better, or maybe four 12's?

5.5 net volume after displacements, or is that 5.5 gross?

Funny, Pete told you not to slant subs, and then they are slanted in his design. . .hmmm.

Sealed box is pretty easy. Shoot for 2.5 ft^3 gross volume. That is 2.5 * 1728 = 4320 in^3. As long as the INTERNAL W x L x D measurements multiplied together come out around 4320 you have your box design. You have way more than enough room without building a 2 piece box. 32" wide x 16.5" deep x 11" high would work. you could also double the top layer (top of box 1.5" thick) and go 34.5" wide x 16.5" deep x 11" high. You could also make it more of a square - 24" wide x 24" deep x 11" high with a double top baffle. There are a lot of choices - just do what you like best.

And you have how many??

It is just a spacer. . . The larger diameter magnet gives the motor more Bl than the triple stack of smaller diameter magnets. Scott said in another post that this sub has more Bl with a daily universal gap than the old BTL had with the SPL tolerances. Brian

What a sweet little Dayton Titanic 15 next to it (only 15 I have sitting around) Brian

It is almost as tall. . . I might have received (4) of them.

I will soon be after you again Scott, Nick, and Shawn have been nothing but helpful to me. . . even before I was a FI/AA customer. Brian

How much port area? You have dimensions? Maybe aero ports could get you a little more airspace. I run my BTL's in slighty under 3 ft^3 each tuned to 34-35 Hz and they sound great. Brian

Depends, what are you waiting for?

That is my problem. . chat room doe snto show up. . .

How do I get setup to chat?

I am pretty sure mids are ready, tweeters are ready, crossovers are not. Would have to build your own crossovers, or run active. PM me and I can get prices for you (if you are in North Texas like your info says). Brian

Have not clamped them yet, so here is all the info I can give you all based on measured SPL. Some of it may be usless, but it may give you an idea. I know the strapped pairs of MD3D's were doing over 4200, and I know the 40.1's at 0.5 are doing more than strapped pairs of MD3D's. Even at 1 ohm, the 40.1's were very close in output to the MD3D's. With the 40.1's at 0.5, I gained exactly 2 dB vs. running them at 1 ohm. And one last thought - I have not measured impedance rise with these subs, but if I use every other sub that has been in this enclosure as reference, I will guess I am running just under 1 ohm total load. Every sub I have measured in this box runs an average of 2X the DCR for my measured impedance.

If you have room, and you want loud, seems like the choice is obvious between 12's and 15's. . .