BKOLFO4

The new crunch GP3000D-Pro is not your normal crunch amp. . . . The lower wattage GP amps are not RMS rated - the 2500 is 2500 watts max, that is why they are so inexpensive. Kinda like the US Amps XT series. We will see when I get mine. . . Brian

Try 157 dB @ 36 Hz

Crunch GP3000D-PRO. Getting a lot of great reviews. I may get 8 of them shortly. . . http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=18538 Brian edit - yes, your diagram above is how you want to wire them.

It is 32"

Get a PAC inline RCA subwoofer level controller and put it on the RCA's coming directly out of the headunit. That is what I do and it works great.

You did such an incredible job of routing all that wiring, that it is really sad covering it up. . . Looks awesome man!!!!

What is this going in? Which way do you want the sub and port to face? Just curious, since your port width does not follow any of your exterior dimensions. With 3/4" wood, you have 14,5 x 11.5 x 17.5 = 1.69 ft^3 gross airspace. By the time you subtract driver and port displacement, you will not net 1.2 ft^3, unless you get the tuning frequency up. I would build to your max dimensions. Assuming the port and sub are on the 16 x 13 side of the box, make the port 11.5 x 1.5. Run it into the box so it is 1.5" from the back wall, and then run it along the back wall until it is 1.5" from the opposite side wall. Comes out to around 1.13 ft^3 tuned near 34 Hz. Should work pretty good. Brian

Or order dual 2's - wire each sub's set of coils in series, and then parallel all three subs. 1.34 ohm load

Spiders stiff enough for ya?? Man they took a lot of beating on to break in. . . Brian

If installed correctly, three should be louder. If you are going to compete at all, it would be worth it. If it was mine, and the only decision was two or three subs, I would go for three. . . If you have the electrical system (sounds like you do), I would do two 18's and use the money saved on the third sub for more power. A pair of BTL's will handle a pair of 40.1's if you know what you are doing. . .Or pick up a pair of Sundown 3000D's.

Actually, two would not be overpowered unless you are just really careless. . . . Brian

Wish that was my safari. . . If it is for SQ more than dB, why not just a pair of Q 15's sealed. Plenty of output and would sound great.

Call AA. Until there are more dealers, I think they are allowing dealers near you to sell and ship to you.

My system is my daily driver, and my 40.1's are at .5 ohms (.35 DCR). Man I pound the crap out of my system every day and not a single problem. Sometimes I will run it for 20-30 minutes at a time at full volume. If it was me, assuming you have room to build the correct box, I would add the extra 18 and run three. It is still 33% more cone area, and if you run dual 1 ohm drivers, series the coils on each driver, and then parallel the three drivers you would have a nice load for the 40.1 to get maximum output from it. 40.1's are getting harder to find. If I can't find (4) more next month, mine will be for sale to find something else. Brian

www.ficaraudio.com Select your options, add to your basket. Shipping is included in the price shown.

Looks like it is going to be an awesome setup. Duplicolor works great for me. A lot better than that plast-o-crap walmart sells now. Spray the duplicolor from about 6" away to get good coverage. Then, back up about 18" and hit it with a second coat for a good texture. . . Brian

From the time he starts until the time he finishes will much more than 27 seconds. I would guess more like an hour. . . unpack, take apart, replace diode, repack, address, etc. If the man is going to make a living repairing amps, that is pretty darn cheap. . .

US Amps will repair it. . .

Of course you can. . .20" deep takes into account the bend making the port 25.5". I find when the port ends without a piece actually extended the port along the back wall, you don't get the full effective length of the corner, you get about half making the effective of the port in this case about 22-23" inches. Brian

17" is close enough to 16.75". . . And it can't be 22.5" long on a box that is 25.5" deep. Assuming 3/4" wood, you only have a 2.25" opening left at the back on a 4.5" port.

17" long should work pretty good. 38 Hz is pretty high for daily. If you are going for SPL, you can start with a port length of 20", sweep and measure SPL, cut 1" off the port, sweep and measure SPL, cut 1" off the port. . .repeat until the port is around 10" long. You can also measure the true tuning frequency of each port length just for reference to see how it compares to your peak output frequency. If this is for daily, I would make the port wall 20" long for a tuning around 34 Hz. Brian

sure. . . PM me what you are looking for.

Should not be a problem if the gains are set correctly. . .I only run 2 volt out.

I doubted it would, but now you can feel better about having "too much" port area. . .

If it is 9 ft^3 net, then 12*9=108 in^2 If you use 16 inches per cuft, you need 144 in^2. 157 is not far off as long as it is tuned correctly. I have used 300 inches with 11 ft^3 when I had my pair of 18's. The impedance rise will definitely vary between setups. You should measure what you have now to get an idea of where you might be. Every sub I have run in my box measures an actual impedance that is pretty much 2X my DCR. Brian