BKOLFO4

What vehicle is it? I designed it assuming the sub and port would be on the 34.5" x 20" side. The port will be on the driver's side, sub centered between the port and opposite wall. Brian

On 3000 total, the double cone area is going to win assuming you have enough volume to build the proper box for a pair of 18's. . .

x2

Do you have 12 ft gross before driver and port displacement, or 12 ft net volume after subtracting the displacements? Brian

Make it 34.5" wide x 20" high x 17" deep. 3/4" material except double the sub mounting baffle so it is 1.5" thick. Port will be 18.5" x 3". It will be 25" long, so run it into the box so it is 3" from the rear wall and then turn and go 8" parallel to the back wall. Brian

Per your PM - 49"W x 18"H x 24"D will work. I made it 49", because that is the width of a sheet of MDF Make the top of the box 1.5" thick, all other sides 3/4" The port will be a square opening on the back side of the box that will be on the driver's side. Make the opening 15.75" High (that is 18" - 1.5" for the wood on top - .75" for the wood on bottom) x 6.5" Wide. One side of the port will be the side wall of the box (making it a "slot" port) the other wall will be a piece 15.75" High that will extend into the box until it is 7" from the opposite wall from the port opening.

In my suburban, subs and ports back sounded the best to me. Tried several boxes with different sub and port positions. Loudest on the meter was sub and port rearward and the box sitting 8" from the rear door. Go with 48" wide x 20" tall x 20.5" deep. 3/4" material, double the sub mounting baffle. Port will be 18.5" x 6" x 28" long. Run it into the box so it is 6" from the rear wall and then turn it and run another 7.5" parallel to the rear wall. That gives you 7ft tuned to 32 Hz. Brian

You can do 20H x 20W x 28.5D for a single sub. 3/4" wood except the baffle - double it so it is 1.5" thick. Build the port on one side of the 20 x 20 face - it will be 18.5" x 3". For the port wall, it will extend all the way into the box so that is it 3" from the rear wall, leaving an 18.5" x 3" opening inside the box. For (2) subs, you can build a second box like the single box (since it will fit), or make a 20H x 39W x 28.5D with an 18.5" x 6" port in the midde of the 39 x 20 face. Same thing for the depth - run it inito the box so it is 3" from the rear wall. This will give you an 18.5" x 3" opening into each chamber of the box. Brian

If (2) 18's will fit, so will (4) 15's. I ran (4) 15's in 12 ft tuned to 34 Hz. Hit low and loud!!!

2ft each should be enough. I ran 15's in 3ft each. Make sure you have the subsonic set right if you are tuned to 37 Hz. . . Brian

I must know about these wedge enclosures you speak of. Need 10-20 dB of gain!!!!

x2 I always like the sound of subs and port back. . .

If you are local to North Texas, I will build you something, but I am not interested in building and shipping. If you find someone to build it that cannot do the design, let me know and I will design one for you. Brian

What size are the T4's? 4.5 each, or for the pair? Sealed or ported?

What vehicle, and how will it be positioned in the car? You have a large depth, are you sure the box will go in? Sometimes a box may "fit", but be impossible to get in the car after it is built due to the limited size trunk opening. Brian

I run a 40.1 @ 0.5 ohms on each of mine. . . no problems. Mechanical stress from box design, subsonic filter setting, and music content will destroy them on that kind of power before they thermally fail. . . Brian

Box is complete and back in. Will start building the last two layers of the baffle/wall this weekend. Get the threaded rod installed and then I can install the subs :D Will get more pics this weekend. Brian

2-2.5 tuned to 32 will work. How much power are you going to run? 250-300 watts should be enough. 30-35 inches of port area will work great. Brian

Sorry, I missed that you replied. Contact Nick [@] ficaraudio.com and he should be able to get you a quote.

Welcome fellow Texan!!!

It all looks good to me. I like the way 18's perform in 6.5-7 ft^3. The 3000D will work great - just make sure the subsonic fliter is set so you do not mechanically kill the driver.

Is the person building it also designing it, or are you asking for a design? You have more than enough room. . . With your dimensions, I would shoot for 4 ft^3 with 56-60 inches of port area.

You can just corner fill the rear side opposite the port wall or cut some off the width. I can design a box for you. . . Do you want less width, or would you rather it be that wide and just add a piece inside the box to fill some of the width?

Your port is so deep, you only have a 6.25" opening in the rear, so the corner behind the port will act like part of the port. You really will end up with around 6.8 ft^3 net volume with close to 32 Hz for tuning. Should work great for a BTL 18. How much power are you going to run?

Man I wish everyone could understand this. . . I hear over and over how if the gains are not match exactly it will hurt the sub.