BKOLFO4

Need to know what speaker it is to determine if they have the correct parts to rebuild it. Will need a new basket and a recone kit.

The great 12" challenge used (1) 4" aero with a single sub and had no problems. There are multiple claims that say you can get away with 1/2 the normal port area with an aero. Let us know what you think when you get the box built. . .

It is close enough to just estimate the displacement as a 4" port. I use 14 in^2 * length to get volume displacement of each port. Also - the volume used to calculate the length for a given tuning frequency is based on the net volume, not the gross. Determine what volume you want to use, find the port length. Add the volume + port displacement + driver displacement to get gross volume. Adjust your dimensions to get that gross volume. Brian

Use your max dimensions. I am assuming sub up, port rearward. Double the top plate (1.5" thick), use 3/4" everywhere else. That makes the internal dimensions 10.75" x 51.5" x 26.5". Due to the depth of the box, and the depth of the sub, you can make a port on the rear of the box up one of the sidewalls. Make it 10.75" x 8". Run it into the box 19.25" (that should make it 8" from the opposite wall). That leaves around 6.8 ft^3 tuned to 32 Hz. Brian

Authorized Kicker dealer. I have ordered several amps from them with no problems. Brian

amp died??? bad RCA cable? Do you have another speaker you can try on that amp? Do you have an ohm meter? Measure the resistance of each coil on the sub. Brian

I have never smelled the subs in the van. Not sure how efficient 40.1's are. I am running them at 0.5 ohms, so I am sure that does not help. I doubt I am getting 5k per sub. I need to take a few pics and post an update. Been busy, so the van is last on the list, but the door panels are almost complete. Nothing special - just MDF for now, no fiberglass. I worked on it a little this weekend. One of my neighbors stopped by to see it. She has fairly long blonde hair that made for a nice hair trick. Actually surprised me, both doors were open, and she stuck her head in during the intro to young jeezy soul survivor. First notes hit and her hair went crazy

Just did pretty much the same setup, but it was a soundstream XXX10000D. . .pretty much the same amp. It is crazy. 14 ft^3 tuned to 33 Hz works great.

Does the 22" calculate to be roughly 50% more cone area than an 18"?

This has been covered so many times on so many forums. . . Ever think about an electric guitar and a distortion pedal. If distortion killed speakers, just about any rock song would blow your speakers. . . Drivers don't care what they are playing. You think music makes the driver move in a special way that is much different than distortion? Ever think about how many different sounds the speaker is reproducing in a single moment? How does it differentiate a distorted electric guitar along with several other sounds for distortion? Going beyond the mechanical or thermal limits of the driver kills it, not the sound it is making. I think one thing that confuses people is an example like: a 1000 watt sub woofer and an 800 watt RMS amp. Sub gets blown and they blame it on distortion or clipping causing the sub to blow (or too low power). Sure the amp may have been clipping and distorting, but it is the increase in RMS power that causes the failure. A heavy clipped signal from that 800 watt RMS amp will become more than 800 watts RMS if the amp does not fail. . .

You are asking for a comparison of (2) 15's to (2) 18's. The 18's are going to be louder assuming you have enough room for the correct enclosure. IMO, even comparing 15" 9500's to 15" BTL's, the BTL will win. . . Brian

sub and port rearward I assume?

Some maximum dimensions would help. . .like dimensions of the current box and how much larger it can be in each direction. . . Brian

I know what 95Honda is saying about the same box, but since both drivers are in enclosures that fall within the manufacturer's spec, it seems like a fun comparision. Brian

Similar, but look at the dash - Not the same. All these subs are making me want to rebuild the van!

I do them for free. . .pm me max dimensions and what subs you have. . .

Did it happen yet??

I have run BTL 15's in less than 3 ft with awesome results. . .

Which one can have the best electrical system? That one would get my vote. Only other thing would be the size of the wall. Make sure the subs will fit with enough port area. AA SMD subs in late Feb. . .

So what you are saying is he may have been stressing them thermally and mechanically

Funny, I know it is not how this topic started, nor was it the point of this topic, but I was thinking. . . If a newbie dropped in here and said "Man my Havoc died after 10 months. I was testing and smelled the coils burning, but I am only running it on a 1000 watt RMS amp in a sealed box", I don't think anyone would reply "You probably just played it too much over those 10 months". . . No that person would get flamed by everyone about gain settings, clipping, not understanding mechanical power handling, etc. (I am not saying this applies to you Pipo - I do understand you run the havocs under extreme conditions and I think it is great they lasted so much longer than your previous subs). I really should not keep on. . .my whole point was havocs should not get a rep for not lasting more than 10 months if "played too much" on 700-1000 watts. And honestly I was not going to even post until I backed up KU40 comments above. . . In the end, your truck is bad a$$, and so are the Havocs. . . Brian

Here we go. . .you are not listening to what I am saying and now just go off with sarcastic comments. I never said anything about approving of them. I love AA subs - run them in my house and vehicles. My point is still that your comment in post number 5 is incorrect. You did not kill the subs from playing them too much within their limits, you killed them from abusing them. In whatever way that abuse was. . .mechanical or thermal. Subs do not die within a year when playing within their advertised limits unless they are rated incorrectly or have a manufacturer defect.

Which further makes my point. If there are mechanical limitations due to the enclosure/truck combination, then that would add to driver failure. I would also think if the sub is rated 1250 RMS thermally, you should not smell coil burning at 1000 watts RMS. I am not saying something is wrong with the setup (or that it is user error) that made it fail. When you push things to the point of what competing has become, things will fail, but the posts makes it sound like a driver playing within its advertised limits failed from being played too much. . .I would not think that is a good reputation for the Havoc. If played within its limits, it should last for years. I'll try not to say anything else Brian

I hate to keep arguing, but if you are truely only giving those subs 700 watts each, and they are not mechanically limited to lower power due to the enclosure, the sub should not have died in less than one year, even if you played it pretty much non-stop. I have a feeling if you smelled the coils, you are giving them more power than you think Is the crack in the diamond causing an air leak in the sealed box? Please don't get mad for my responses. . .I just don't agree that the driver died from playing it too much. I think you had to be beyond the limits of the sub while playing it so much. Brian

I think the confusion was the way you made the statement in post 5. It sounded like you were saying that you played the sub within its limits, but it failed just because you played it a lot. KU40 was just stating that if you played it within its limits, it would not matter if you played it 24 hrs a day over the past year, it should not die. Understanding that you beat the heck out of it beyond its limits for almost a year explains why it died Brian