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Everything posted by BKOLFO4
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Leads can be replaced. If it is done right, it will work. If not, they just fail again. You can recone it and get the new style leads. . .recone pirces vary by size.
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No. 5 x 5 x 5 would be 125 ft^3 box. Post up the max height the box can be and the width between the wheel wells - I will design you a box.
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He was asking about (4) 3000D's on (2) Mayhems, or 6000 daily. 3000 daily is no problem.
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Tune the box for 32-33 Hz with that mix SSF around 27-28 Hz. LP filter - whatever sounds good to you. I would guess between 70-110 Hz. Gain - you can start at the 4 volt setting on the amp, but it seems like the deck never does what it is actually rated, and the markings on the amp are never 100% accurate. Measure the output with an RMS voltage meter using a 50 Hz tone.
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I would be up for 12 of them if I could get my 40.1's sold. edit - How would (12) 2000D's compare to six 3500D's?
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(8) of these in my HT IB setup. . .can't wait!
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Isn't that one of the models that makes the same power at any rated impedance? The extra power imput may not make a difference in how much power you are getting, but may save the amp. Copper traces on the board are more than likely not designed assuming only one set of inputs being used. What does an 8 volt line driver have to do with not using one set of power inputs?
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Start around $150 + shipping. See where it goes. . .
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I have used both of those plate amps from PE - they are both good. If you don't mind fan noise, the Behringer EP1500 is not much more with a lot more power. What coils did he order? If it is dual 1 ohm, choices are limited for a sub amp, unless you use something like the EP1500 and just use one channel.
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With 1200 watts, I would not go much higher. 2.25-2.5 with 35 sqin of port area works.
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What will he pay? Start high and bargin with him.
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My suburban did 157 @ 37 Hz. Van does 159.7 @ 42 Hz (last time I metered; should be louder now). It is finally loud enough to make me uncomfortable. . . I am in Denton if you ever make it up this way, let me know! Brian
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Where do you live? If you need a set of box plans, post up the max dimensions. . . I will design it for you. Brian
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You could go with no screws. Couple of ideas to make the joints stronger - Glue the joint with titebond and then once the box is done put a good bead of liquid nails on all the seams. You can get a few pieces of 2x2 and glue them with titebond over the seams in a few places. If you are going to bedliner spray, use a few screws. I mix sawdust and titebond and use it like wood putty over the screw heads. sands down nice for bedliner spray. Brian
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If it is going to be a high power/large sub application, use screws. The glue joint does not come apart, but MDF will just beyond the joint. Been there. Had (2) 18's in a box that I did not screw together that came apart. Glue joint was fine, but the MDF came apart just beyond where the glue soaked in. I use the nail gun to hold the joint together while I predrill and screw. Brian
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Amp for 2 BTL's
BKOLFO4 replied to treylittlefield's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
$825 until 2/28 $850 from 3/1 until production. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=25410 You need batteries, high output alt, and lots of 1/0! -
Amp for 2 BTL's
BKOLFO4 replied to treylittlefield's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
We have a setup right now with a pair on a Soundstream XXX 10000D. Works great. Can also get that amp as a Lanzar Opti6000D for around $1k. A used 40.1 would work awesome. You can find them for around $750. A Sundown 3500D on the preorder. . . Brian -
Just got mine back - Had it converted to external reg. Only a $99 option if you get t done when you order the alt. . .
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You can order the kit and basket from Fi. No glue with the kit, so you just use Loctite 20 minute 2 part epoxy. I have done 2 recones using it and had no problems. What is your actual address? Brian
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Universal determines the size of the gap with 1 ohm coils. The gap tolerance can be optimized with the 1 ohm coil, but then a 2 ohm coil will not work. Universal with 1 ohm coils will allow you to recone as a dual 2 ohm if you ever decide to. If you want a final load of 1 ohm, you want dual 2 ohm. Wire them in parallel you get 1 ohm. You can select the Universal option, it does not matter and will save you from trying to explain it to someone later if you decide to sell the sub. Brian
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Van has been at the bottom of the list again the past few weeks, but time to get back on it. The door panels are almost done, and the alternator came back today!!!
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what kinda motor is this and where can i get a recone???
BKOLFO4 replied to bangindodgeram's topic in General Fi
Is it just my computer, or is that ruler saturated by the flash so I cannot see the numbers on it???? -
You can send it in. Only thing they add is shipping cost. ~$30 each way. Centering is not bad. Just keep adding pieces of paper until the coil is tight in the gap. For the dust cap, I measure mine and place it without glue. Mark it with a pencil on the cone, apply glue, set the cap, and put a can on it until it dries. CA glue for the dust cap is ok, but Scott told me the CA glue they actually use is not just plain CA glue like you buy at a hobby store. Loctite Epoxy works better for a home recone. I work for a company in Fresno, but I am at the customer site in Texas! Will PM you a price.
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Need to know what size SSD and your zip code. You can have copper coil with a stock motor, but not flatwound. If you want copper coil, need to know that too. Re-cone kit is everything but the glue and shims. Glue is no longer shipped, but loctite 20 minute epoxy from Lowes or Walmart works great. Use multiple layers of construction paper for shimming. Post the info, and I will PM you a price. Brian