BKOLFO4

Wow - what a thread. Just to sum it up - (2) subs with Dual 1 ohm voice coils will get you a final load of 1 ohm. Wire the coils on each sub in series, and then parallel the 2 subs. I would use 12 ga as a minimum for speaker wire. The amp and speaker terminals will handle up to 8 ga if you find some for a good price. Never hurts to go bigger and it looks cool Brian

According to Scott, they are in #108 now. Had a different UPS driver that day. . .

I just bought 2 shipped to Denton, should be the same to 76015. Shipping was $22.

Shipping was never "free" it was included in the price. Prices were adjusted months ago and shipping was added. Makes up for the big increases with UPS. edit - guess nick already posted

Done at least 20 of them. What you can do depends on what seat position you are willing to live with. Around 15.5" tall, 5-6" depth on top, 10-12" deep on bottom, aroud 50" wide. Here is a box I designed for (4) 10's sealed:

You can always try it. It reduces the mechanical power handling, but other than that it should be ok. Does that amp have subsonic filter you could use to control the deep bass excursion? You could always corner fill the corners of the enclosure to take up space. Brian

Yes. PM me your email address.

so it would be the quote you gave me in the pm plus a hundred for the crossover x2. The quote + $100 for the pair of XO's, not each.

The wait is for you to be placed in a queue with all the other orders until it is time to build up whatever you ordered. UPS visits Fi more then once a day. . .

I talked to Scott for you. He said it may be hung up in customs. . .He is going to check it out and post info. Brian

Hey man! Link to the build and a video is in my sig. . . 159.7 @ 42 Hz last time I metered. Changed seats and waiting for SMD subs right now. May rebuild before I buy SMD subs and go with (5) 18's instead of (6) 15's. I honestly have been so busy that I hate the thought of starting over. Goal is still 160+ playing music. Sorry for the thread jack - Back on track now! The 22" BTL may give the XXX a run in displacement, but I think the XXX will still have the edge. Keep in mind they are going to be totally different subs. The XXX is a low end monster. We have installed a couple of the 12's. They are not as loud as people think they are going to be on the meter, but just listening to music the low end output is incredible. XXX is so darn expensive. Skip is a RE dealer, and we just bought one off ebay instead of direct!!!! Brian

Those still will not have the linear displacement of the new style XXX.

Did you see his latest post over on the first forum link?? Customer had adjusted the bass boost and gain to max!! Not to mention - those boxes were 2.2 ft^3 tuned to 45 Hz.

The best solution is run them on a 4 channel amp with active crossovers. Otherwise, I can send you a crossover design. I can even give you a parts list from part express. I can even build them and ship them if you need me to. . .With all nice caps and inductors, they would be right at $100. Brian

Do you know how much power you will run? Any ideas for the enclosure? If you like the sound of the SSD and do not expect it to perform beyond its limitations, go with it. With more power handling, or with a larger enclosure size, go with the Q. Installed correctly, it will sound as good or better than the SSD and have the ability to get louder. Brian

Helps idle output. I tried it on my van and had to go back to the full size pulley due to the belt slipping on the smaller pulley.

You can read his reply, but I thought this was funny: "somthing is telling me these wern't new subs i purchased, from the kind of construction i've seen, and now that you've mentioned it,they seemed repaired already" huh?

I posted on that forum. . .

Man those things have been ABUSED!!! Look at the coil color - underpowered my a$$. Someone mechanically ripped those things apart. What forum is he posting all that on? Would love to see what people have to say.

You could use the AA 7" midbass and tweeter set. Just need to make a mounting plate.

PM sent. . .

Even at 6 ft long, the resistance in decent 1/0 is way less than the path through the bracket, engine, frame path. Connection points are more resistance than the wire itself.

It is actually the best way. . .path of least resistance will be a nice piece of 1/0 wire vs. through brackets, engine, ground strap, frame, etc. Mechman puts ground studs on their alts just for this.

If it has been hot enough or bottomed out, some of the coil could have bubbled and/or broke loose. You can normally hear that just pushing the cone in by hand a little. Be sure you push it right in the center or it will rock and scrape even if there is nothing wrong with it.

Funny, I just PM'd him this morning and told him to use the standard motor TB-8's. Awesome little drivers.