BKOLFO4

Did you try hooking the amp up to just power, ground and remote turn on (disconnect the speaker wires and RCA's)? Maybe you have something wrong and it is just going into protect. Worth a try.

I have it on my computer at work, but I am out of town right now. If no one responds, I can give it to you on Thursday. Brian

Those amps are decent if you can get one at a good price. There might be other options depending on what you are paying for it. . .

It will depend on your box design. I have run mine daily at 0.5 for almost 2 years, but at one point I had my subs in a larger box and the 40.1's did not like it. They would go into protect at high volumes. Good thing is they go into protect before they get damaged. I have been told by two competitors that about the only way to hurt one is to physically vibrate it apart. If you bought one used, pull the back cover off and make sure none of the screws have vibrated out that are holding the board in the chasis. Brian

Yes. If it did not, you would be burning the coil too.

Different subs have different t/s parameters, so they do not all respond the same in the same enclosures. Read up on Q factor. Ever heard the phrase Butterworth alignment (Q=0.707)? What he is saying that you want the drivers in the same alignment, not the same box for the comparison. For example, one may need 5 ft^3 to have a Q of .707, the other may only need 3 ft^3. In this case, using them in the same box may change which one turns out to be louder, even if you think you know which one it should be. Another problem - Are you looking at peak SPL at a certain frequency, loud with music, heavy low end, ??? Even in the same alignment, they may not have the same frequency response. One may be louder on a SPL meter, while the other may sound louder to your ear due to the frequency response. Brian

Would not work. You have 8 voice coils and 3 amps. Three BTL's and three 3500D's would work. Contact Sundown to order the 3500D's

Woud be fine. Do you already have them? AQ2200D's are only $389 shipped.

Yes you can. Price is the same as the website - $105 for the 18" with flatwind. Only additional cost is shipping, but if you are going to drop off and pick up, that is not a factor. I'll send you a PM with more info.

If you can come to Dallas, I can build for you. . .Would only take a few hours.

I have pricing to make it an 18. Did you ever PM me a zip code so I can determine shipping costs? Brian

Sorry for the delay. Just sent you a PM.

I work in the electrical engineering department at Peterbilt

12.80" did not take into account the driver and port displacement. I come up with 15.6" for a port with no flare. You could add an inch or so for your flare end correction. That will be 5.8 ft^3 net volume @ 33 Hz. With 3/4" wood: 15.5 x 23.25 x 32 = 6.67 ft^3 - (2 x .18) = 6.31 ft^3 - (15 x 4.25^2 x pi) = 5.8 ft^3 net You could also make the driver mounting baffle 1.5" thick. Add another .75" to the port if you decide to double the baffle. Brian

.7 and 1.4 are the DC resistance of the coil, not the impedance. The impedance is Dual 1 and Dual 2 ohms. Impedance varies with frequency, and impedance rise will depend on the enclosure. . .

We did a blow thru not long ago with a pair of Mayhem 18's. Looks like this: As already stated, that is a lot of power for Q's. Also a big box for that much power. The box we did was only 14 ft^3 tuned to 33 Hz and sounds great. Brian

I will PM you info tomorrow. . . Brian

Don't crawl in a hole, but also don't post info that is not quite true. Let's look at a few things here: Does not matter. May not get the max performance out of a sub, but a 1000 watt amp will work fine with a 2000 watt speaker. The real truth is that many times a sub will not even mechanically handle its rated power because of the box it is installed in and because people do not use subsonic filters correctly in ported boxes. You are correct, people tend to do this, but clipping does not damage the speaker. When a signal is clipped, the RMS power will become higher. In theory, it could almost match the peak power if the amplifier is not destroyed. This increase in RMS power is what actually damages the speaker. Here is a nice read: http://www.forceaudio.com/showthread.php?t=15 Not much to say there. The power required is based on your needs. Some like headroom, others like to max everything out. Some like loud, some do not. . . You are correct, some companies do use higher distortion ratings to inflate power ratings. They also use peak power and will even rate at a higher single frequency. But, 1-2% (not 0.1-0.2%) on a class D sub amp is pretty much acceptable to most of the bassheads that come here asking if they can use 1500+ watts on a BTL That statement should say - You can hurt a sub with an amp rated at less than the subs rated power, but the word "underpowering" is not the correct word for what actually damages the sub.

Man I wish those AA SMD subs would get done so I can meet up!!!!

Pretty much everything you just said is WRONG. Should not have posted. Do a little more reasearch and then come back!!!!!!!

Funny things can happen when you mess with the ground wire and RCA's are connected. In some amps they are a ground path. My MD3D's were that way. . .Easy way to kill a sub fast. If you do not hear scratching while it is playing, don't worry about it. Nothing you can do about it anyway except recone it, so if it still works, keep on playing it. Brian

The box you suggested - 4.5 ft tuned to 32-35 will work great. Brian

You could buy a 240 watt plate amp from PE for not much more than passive crossover components will cost.

(4) 2000D's would be enough on the preorder.

I would guess the (2) 10's ported. . .