BKOLFO4

That is normal. There is only a small gap between the pole piece and the voice coil former. If you don't press straight down in the center, you are rocking the two pieces together. The whine is air moving through the gap that cools the coil. I am pretty sure nothing is wrong with your sub, you are just over drivIng it. Post up detailed dimensions of your box and I will make sure it is correct.

Then you are definitely pushing the mechanical limit. Lower tuning. Possibliy a little more port area if you have room. It would be nice if you had an adjustable SSF to control things a little better.

You did not answer the question - Does the sub cone look like it is moving 2" peak to peak when you hear the noise?

So you have 1900 watts on a 1250 watt sub and wondering why it is bottoming? An obvious question would be does the cone look like it is moving 2" peak to peak? Based on your box, SSF, amount of power, and description of when the problem occurs, I bet you are just pushing it to the mechanical limit. Brian

With the surgery bills and costs associated with a prosthetic leg, Ray has been kind enough to set up a paypal account for donations to help. I just donated what I could - If everyone could just donate a few dollars, it would really help Shawn with his recovery. . . [email protected] Brian

Be prepared - sub needs a little time to stretch out before it starts sounding really good. Notice how stiff that cone is???? Brian

That logic is not true. The radio or amplifier will have the same voltage output on both loads, but the output current on the 8 ohm load will be half of the current on the 4 ohm load. The radio will NOT work as hard and will only provide half as much power with the 8 ohm load. If you plan on using tweeters on the headunit, you need to be more concerned with the sensitivity rating of the tweeter more than the max RMS. that is how loud the tweeter is with 1 watt input. Also keep in mind you need a tweeter with a passive crossover, or you will have to build one (on 20 watts, it can be as simple as a cap). We use tweeters directly on the headunit all the time and it works great.

I know when I sold my mayhems, the shipping weight was well below the 70 lb requirement. Subtract the crate and box, I am guessing the sub was well below 60 lbs. I have even shipped 18's right at 70 lbs. sub does not weigh too much more, but the crate and sub together would be a decent weight increase over a 15.

I don't think that pole is blocked. That is the little area where they add the logo plate. It's a Mayhem. And even if we could not identify it, weighing it is not going to tell you for sure if it is a Mayhem or not. You are driving yourself crazy making thread after thread about it. . .

I gotta ask - why are you so worried about the weight???? Don't you have one there? Weigh it!

Pics? 3 slugs, black top and bottom plates, 3" coil

I have had really good luck with the Mayhem 15 in 4 cuft tuned to 33 Hz with 65-75 sqin of port area.

SR10 is a good driver. You may get some gain from the Chaos 10, since your amp has boost and may be pushing the SR beyond its mechanical ability. Your box is really restricting you. That is a really small box for home use. In a car, the smaller box is ok. The roll off on the low end is compensated by cabin gain. No cabin gain in a large room. I would switch to the Chaos and build a larger box (or at least add polyfill to the one you have).

Avalanche 15 makes an awesome HT subwoofer. I would use it over the Havoc, unless I already had the Havoc.

I bought the MTX shallow mounts for my truck after modeling up the response for the airspace I have. They are rated 400 RMS, but I have the pair on an AQ2200 at 1 ohm and the clip light on my gain knob see plenty of action. Been a year now of daily abuse. They are loud and still going strong.

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Depends on the mid. If you are cutting the tweets at 3k, you more than likely will have a lot of overlap. What crossover does your mid amp have? Normally between the amp XO and an external XO you can get a bandpass If not, buy a small air core inductor and place in series on the mid to cut it at 3k

I understand the peaks on each side of the tuning, but I was curious how these peaks interact with peak at driver Fs. The 4 ported graphs show what I was looking for. Thanks!

What happens to the peak at driver Fs once the woofer is in the enclosure? I assume this peak will shift, but would it be in addition to the peaks on each side of the port tuning, or does it become part of the upper peak?

I would shoot for 12-13 cuft net with 160-200 sqin of port tuned to 32-33 Hz.

I have 8 of them IB in my HT. They are awesome. No EQ required.

You must have a Havoc from back when Chad owned AA (Scott still built the subs). . .as far as a box, you can use what is suggested for the current Havoc, and if you ever need a recone AA can still take care of that too!

They expect you to reuse the terminals and the bolts from the sub you are rebuilding. If you started with just a motor and need those additional parts, I would email them about adding to your order. Use multiple sheets of paper for shims. No CA glue unless you ordered it from the recone accessories section for $10. You can use Loctite 2 part epoxy for a Q and it will hold great.

Used a modified 15" Q that Scott built up for me (I think he reduced the power handling, since I am only using a 500 watt plate amp, I did not want to blow the sub by under powering it. . .haha). 500 watt PE Dayton plate amp. 8 cuft net with (2) 4" Aero ports tuned to 21-22 Hz. Just shot texture on it - he is going to paint it to match the room and it goes in the corner. This is part of a HT job for this customer - Really nice setup. Epson 8500UB projector with 120" screen (awesome projector). 7.1 with nice in-walls and this sub. Denon AVR 4310CI receiver and Sony BDP-S470 Blu-Ray player. Big room - 22' deep x 27' wide.

Two would be enough. Did not try to follow all of the box description, but assuming 2.4 cuft, you will need ~25" long. They only come 17" long, so you will need an extra tube and a couple of rings.