BKOLFO4

So I finally got an hour to work on the van tonight and was able to get the Kicker amps up and running. The AA CF mids are sweeeeet. I have them running from 67 Hz (18 dB/oct HP) to 2264 Hz (12 dB/oct LP). The tweeters are running from 23XX Hz (36 dB/oct HP) and up. With the headunit settings all set to flat and absolutely no EQ, it sounds awesome. And man is it ear-piercing LOUD!!! Left my camera at home, but I will get a video soon. I woudl like to take a video from about 100 yds away with the doors open so you can see just how loud it is! Should have subs soon. . .no, not SMD subs - just something to hold me over until then

I have run (4) 15's vs. (2) 18's with MT's in a wall behind the second row of seats in a suburban. Both setups in roughly 12 ft^3 tuned to 35 Hz. They metered within .2 dB of each other, but the (4) 15's peaked a few Hz lower and were much louder listening to music. Everyone who heard both setups could not believe they metered the same. Also - 7000 watts is MORE THAN ENOUGH to run (4) 15" BTL's. They will take more, but they will be fine with that much power. I have run them on as little as 900 watts each and they sound great! Brian

Or you can post up a WTB ad on a few forums. i bet you can find someone wanting to sell an 08 model so they can get an 09 model.

BTL's are awesome!

You run from amp pos to terminal 1 pos. Then terminal 1 neg to terminal 2 pos. Then terminal 2 neg to the amp neg Figure out what is wrong before u hurt the sub!!!

CA glue. You sure the SSF filter was set at 32? You sure the box design is correct? You either had a manufacturer's defect, or you were killing it mechanically. How far would you guess the cone was moving (peak to peak stroke)? Brian

500 watts at 4 ohms: Power = (voltage^2)/impedance. 500 = (V^2)/4 V=sqrt(500*4) V=44.7 volts Ever turn the volume up higher than where you had everything set when you set the gain; did you increase the bass setting on the radio or turn the volume up past where you were when you set the gain? What box is the sub in? Subs can be limited mechanically to a power lower than the thermal rating by box design . Did you smoke the coil or do mechanical damage?

You should never be allowed to post any advice on here again. I almost fell out of my chair. . .

10's and 12's are going to handle pretty much the same amount of power thermally. If you stick with the box you have shown, 10's will work much better.

edit - $306 shipped. Forgot to add the 4+ discount. Brian

No problem. Scott said he still has quite a few. . .

They have to be built up, so there will be a wait. . .Just order from the site. Brian

That is only 2.5 ft^3 without port displacement. . .What are they doing for ports? Do you already have the 12"???? I would use 10's in that box. . .Or 2 piece box and fill the spare tire well. Brian

That is going to be a little small. You have 3 ft^3 in that box after driver displacement, but not including port displacement. Could you build the box in 2 pieces and screw them together after they are in the trunk? I have done that more than once You could use aero ports to decrease the port displacement, but a pair of 4" ports would need to be the full 17" length for a 35-36 Hz tuning. They will not fit unless you put them in each end. I have done this in a few cars and it worked great, but you need room on each side of the box for the port to breath. How much room do you have on each side of the box after it is installed? Even with the (2) 4" ports, you are only left with 2.75 ft^3 Net tuned to 36 Hz. I would try to make a 2 piece box if it will fit. Brian

I doubt I can make it, but I have a TL if anyone needs to meter in the Dallas/Denton area. Brian

For sealed, this is a VERY nice box: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.c...tnumber=260-648 For ported, this box is very high quality, but a little small net volume for me: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.c...tnumber=260-634 Brian

x2 33-35 would be ok for the SSF. Just play some bass with really low music in it and watch the excursion. . .

Like nick said, why would they put the effort into releasing something improved if it was not a decent upgrade? I know when I went from old style BTL's to new style BTL's, I gained 0.7 dB on the TL. That is a big difference when you are in the 158+ dB range. . .

So are you saying you have an amp now? running at 4 ohms? How many watts? Lights are dimming on what you have now? what car? Did you do the big three? Good battery? Do you know how big the alt is? when you say highs are not that loud, do you mean your main speakers, or the higher bass notes from the sub?

Inner Heat Sink: Its a machined aluminum ring in the gap that lowers the voicecoils inductance (allowing it to play up higher and have a little better overall transient response). It also reduces the volume inside the magnet gap of the motor increasing air speed with the cooling as well as allowing the coil to kick off heat to a more receptive thermal mass rather than magnets. 
 that came out after I bought mine. If I was buying again, I would get it. . .anything to get the heat out. I also always like when a sub can play higher and still sound good.

I like 10's.

That is what I would do. A true 4000 watts is a lot of power on a 3" coil for an extended length of time. With 4000 watts, I run out of excursion playing music before I have thermal issues. But I also have my SSF set fairly low. Brian

What application, SPL burps, or a daily music sub? SPL burps you don't need those things. Daily music with 4000 watts - you will need cooling and more than likely the long coil. With 4000 watts, I easily get full excursion playing music, even with a subsonic filter. Brian

And then do you play it with any of the headunit setting higher than they were when you set the gain or play a song with more bass than the one you were playing while you set it??? It is hard to hear distortion in a trunk setup. . .

Are A600.2's a good amp?