sandman6983

I'll have to check the manual for the network mode, I'm not sure what that does, or why it would lose rears. I'll look into it though.

Well, just waiting on the sub to come in now. I have everything else in and the box is built (to the cut sheet specs). Here's the list: Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-80PRS Front Speakers: Alpine Type R 6.5" Components (SPR-60C) Rear Speakers: Alpine Type R 6.5" Coaxials (SPR-60) 4 channel Amp: MB Quart RM440.4 Sub Amp: Hifonics Brutus BRX2000.1D Sub: Fi BL 15 (dual 2 ohm, fully loaded)

Awesome! Once I get home I'll measure out the box to get a rough shape and see how big it will be in the back of my Tahoe, then I'll decide on if I'm going with the 15 or the 18. I'm 98% sure I'm going with the Hifonics Brutus 2000 watt amp... So I'll order it and the sub here on the 8th when I get paid. I'll build the box while I'm waiting on the sub to come in... When I order the sub what options for the BL constitute "fully loaded" I am wanting the dual 2 ohm, and from what I read I don't need to get universal because the 2 ohm option is already set up for it. So I'm assuming yes to everything else but flatwind coils and universal when selecting the daily option with dual 2 ohms...right?

Awesome! That's what I was hoping to hear. Is your box built to the Fi Cut Sheet specs?

So to get clean, fast, accurate bass from my 15 or 18 do I want to make the box more toward the smaller (less airspace) side of the spec or toward the bigger (more airspace) side of the spec, or somewhere right in the middle?

No thanks, I think I'm set on going with the BL (in 15 or 18)... Still have to settle on an amp though... Then I will be set to purchase everything in a couple weeks. As far as getting all the options for daily use, what is the right setup? I'm assuming equipping it with dual 2 ohm, hyper pole, cooling, no flatwind, daily, no on universal (because it's dual 2 ohm), and I don't know on internal lead (I don't know what that does). hdrox, how do you like your hifonics amp? I heard that the newer Brutus amps are supposed to be really good for the money.

Makes sense... If I built the box for a 15 (or 18) to the cut sheet specs listed here in Fi's forum...how do you think that would do accuracy wise?

OK...sounds like BL is the sub for me then...(I don't think the Xcon would be worth the extra $100) I've honestly never even considered an 18...it would fit... At what point do you start loosing accuracy on tight fast bass runs? (or does that not happen?) I've heard that 15s and bigger are two slow to keep up with them due to mass, but I'm not sure I buy that... The only potential down side I can see with the 18 is box size...it needs quite a bit more airspace. I've had plenty of 10s and 12s, but I've never owned a 15 or 18... As far as amps I agree that I want a cheap/reliable option (I know those words usually don't go together). Out of what I have listed are there any of those brands that I should stay away from? You guys are helping immensely with my planning process, thanks!

Ok...I think I'm going to go with a fully loaded Q 15 in a ported box, I'm going to build the box myself based off the cut sheet that Fi posted. Now I'm second guessing the amp...lol. I had originally planned on the Hifonics Brutus BRX2000.1D 2000 watt amp. I am now looking at the following list... Hifonics Brutus BRX2000.1D (2000 watts rms) ($235) Sound Qubed Q1-2200D (2200 watts rms) ($430) Soundstream TA1.2000D (2000 watts rms) ($240) (or TX1-2000D older model I think same specs) ($300) Soundstream RUB1.1600D (1600 watts rms) ($186) Audio Pipe AP-15001D (1500 watts rms) ($180) Audio Pipe APSM-1500 (1500 watts rms) ($135) Cadence Q9000M (1200 watts rms) ($280) Cadence Dakota (1200 watts rms) ($345) PPI S2000.1D (2000 watts rms) ($180) Out of those what would you pick? I looked in the 1500-2000 watt range as the Q 15 is 1500 watts rms but fully loaded it should handle a little more right? Also, the sound qubed is a little more than I want to spend, though it's probably one of the best on the list, price point is also why I didn't include the Sundown 1500...though I could go with it if all the other amps on this list are crap... I have been out of the car audio world for a few years now, I know that Soundstream, PPI and Cadence used to be awesome, are they still? I also know that Hifonics has had a questionable past though the new Brutus series is supposed to be pretty decent (and cea compliant).

I don't have the JL stuff anymore, I sold it about 6 months ago... I just had my wife measure, and there is more room than I thought...lol. I was kind of leaning toward a 15 also, then down the road if it isn't enough adding a second one. Will the 15 be able to handle rapid bass beats well (accurately)? Other than that, I just have the question of sealed or ported, and Q or BL. Will the BL produce clean bass? Also, it is down on Xmax (by 10mm) compared to the Q... will that matter? I have heard that the BL will get louder but the Q will get lower...which one will help with the bass you can feel in your chest while remaining clean? Ultimately I think I want a system that sounds good (most importantly) but will also get low and produce the bass that you feel in your chest and throat...lol

Also, I forgot to mention I don't want to take up all of the room in the back of the Tahoe, I do occasionally have to put stuff in there for outdoor stuff (hunting, fishing, camping)... that's the other reason I only wanted to run one sub... 2 would be ok if they kept the same depth (width of the box doesn't really matter to me much, I would actually prefer it go all the way across...)

Hi guys, this will be long...lol...bear with me. I just bought a 97 Tahoe (4dr 4x4) and am wanting to put a new system in it. So far I have just a HU (Pioneer DEH-80PRS) and the amp for my mids/highs (MB Quart RM440.4). I'll have to wait until I get home (I'm in Afghanistan for another week) to get speakers as I don't know sizes and have gotten conflicting info online... Also, planned on doing the big 3 when I get home too... For the sub amp I was planning on using a Hifonics Brutus BRX2000.1D (or equivalent, or possibly a little more power, trying to stay below $300 for it). I'm very conflicted on the sub though... I'm thinking I only want to run 1 sub (2 isn't completely out of the question though), either 12 or 15. I would like to stay under $500 for the sub (preferably cheaper...lol) I tend to prefer sealed boxes due to them sounding tighter though I would probably be open to a properly tuned ported box. I also like really clean, tight bass, I'm not a fan of SPL subs due to them sounding dirty... I listen to everything (everything everything...lol) With a heavy focus on metal, dubstep, and rap... The subs I've been looking at so far are the Fi Q, Fi BL, SSA Xcon, and the AA Havoc (though it's a little more expensive and I'm not crazy about the way it looks). The XCon has the most Xmax (31mm) with the Q right behind it at 28, with the BL coming in a 18mm (that doesn't sound right, seems low). I like the look of the Xcons also more than the Fis (not crazy about dustcaps...lol) I don't know if the 3mm of Xmax is worth the $100 price difference between the Xcon and the Q either. The problem is I've never heard any of these in person, only youtube videos (where they all sound like crap due to crap cameras). My old system when I had my Tiburon (and later in may Blazer) was a JLW7 12 (in a sealed JL power wedge box, I originally had it in JL's ported box but didn't really like how it sounded (not as tight, muddy on rapid bass notes), though it was quite a bit louder) running off a JL 500/1. It was pretty decent and would flex the glass in the hatchback (had to dynamat everything though to keep rattles down) From what I understand the subs I'm looking at sound just as good but hit harder than the W7. My question is: Looking for what I'm looking for (clean, tight, strong bass) for all types of music...what would you go with (which sub? 12 or 15? sealed or ported?) and why? Thanks!

Oh yeah I guess that will help...I spent quite a bit on the current setup (probably more than I should have)...but I would like to stay right about $2,000 - $2,500 or so... don't really want to spend more than 3k. But of course the lower the price the better...lol...knowing that you get what you pay for... I also don't want bigger than 15's... I like tight clean bass... bigger than a 15 and you start sounding a little less tight and a little boomy-er in my opinion... Also regardless of whether it is 1 sub or 2 I would like to stick to a one amp solution for the subs... Then I wouldn't have to change my mounting much... still would have 1 amp for the inside speakers and 1 for subs... thanks!

Oh yeah and I'm running a 1/0 from the battery back...big 3 are done in 1/0. And split it in the back off the 1/0 into a 4ga per amp... Want to get a high amp alternator soon...

I have a 91 S-10 Blazer 4dr... Right now I have a full JL Audio setup with a JL 300/4 powering my JL speakers and a JL 500/1 powering my 12W7 in a sealed box. Now I want to upgrade. I have a buddy with a single BL 12 which sounds good...but I think I want more than that. My problem is this, I want bass...lots of bass, like to the point that you turn on a bass track or a decent rap song and it's hard to breathe or swallow...lol...but I want it to sound decent (had a ground zero nuclear 15 once...bass was brutal but sounded like crap...) I know that you can't have SQ and SPL together... I want SQ, just SQ that moves you...lol. I listen to all types of music but mostly metal and hard rock... Double bass drums and that sound good on my W7 they just don't have that "kick you in the chest" feeling...lol. I was looking at 2 BL 15's, but again not sure if they would be the best bet for what I'm looking for...what would you guys recommend? BL's? Q's? Something else completely. And what amp would you recommend to power them? I was going to just throw the JL 1000/1 on my W7 but I don't think that will get me to where I wanna be either. Head Unit is a clarion MAX675VD...(it's the 7" touch screen Double Din one with Nav) Thanks for the help!