lildragon45

I can't wait to get them...

Any references? Is there any warranty or was it refurbished? Looking for a customer install. I need the front face of the unit to be absolutely mint perfect condition. I have a really picky customer.

Great job Argent Audio, this is going above and beyond for customer service.

I am running 1 of the Skar's in a 2cu tuned to 31hz off approx 800rms. It hit's the lows very well and is musical at the same time. It is way better than all the RF Punches I have heard, and to add you can't beat that price of the Skar VVX compared to the over priced RF's. It's my new favorite sub at the moment. Also it will depend on your car and build.

Find a smaller lumber yard type store, the one I have here locally does precision cuts. It cost me about 8-10$ to cut all the pieces on a ported box. All I have is glue and clamp. For the circle cut out. Use a spiral saw or rotozip with a circle attachment. Nice tool to have.

Wow for $169 shipped i'll get another one for myself too... Sorry I couldn't remember when i was typing it VVX12... lol... What the best way to contact Kevin, I think i sent some PM's here with no response yet? Thanks for all the input so far from everyone...

I am asking this for a co worker of mine wanting to get a single 12 Skar Audio VVW12. It is rated at 600RMS and I know it can take more power easily. Now my question is that he has a all JL setup and has 2 12 W0's in a JL ported box. That box is huge and doesn't sound to good to me. I would like to replace it with a single Skar and run it off his JL J2 500.1 amp. It is rated at 500RMS @2ohms. Will this be enough power to use with the Skar? He is doing this because in his 2006 4DR Civic the other box is taking up all his space, I am thinking being custom built box the single sub will be less space and sound alot better. I am running a single Skar off 800-900rms and is more louder than what he needs.

Yeah i'm just going to let him decide. That box fits exactly under the rear seat. So after looking at everything the box is too small, it's only .55 and the sub min is .67 plus factoring in the sub diisplacement. So i'm going to suggest a low profile sub like the mb quart one that needs .5cu so it should be perfect. So just as a general question for a sealed box would the size difference between .5 and .67cu make a big difference in sound output?

Hi I am trying to get more output from my coworker's car. He currently has a 04 F150 SuperCrew and is running 1 10" Cadence Mallet II 2ohms / Cadence Z1000 amp / Pioneer p4200ub. It currently sound nice but not enough bass at all. I am thinking about porting the box but don't where to start and what I should have it tuned to. Would this be a good idea to do? I currently have (2) RE SE 10's and have my 2.7cu box ported at 33hz and he likes the way it sounds with the low bass rolling. I don't know with his smaller box and the Cadence sub can do... Here are some specs on the box in his setup. Subwoofer fires down Box fits on driver's side under rear seat 5/8 inch MDF Air Space = .55 cubic foot Mounting Depth = 5.25 inches Here's the site... Cadence Mallet II 10 2ohms Thanks for any input or suggestions...

So basically take your words with a grain of salt. OP, how about take the words from someone that have used audiopipe and US amps. I'd take the ASMs over the MD1D for space and price. They do the same power at 14.4 volts. Those asm1300s go about $110 shipped each and if those are two original RE SXs, then that's a pretty good deal being $90 each. Those SXs are badass. Yeah so I picked them up. The SX's are the original baskets and coils look brand new. So pretty much i'm looking at it this way. 2 SX 10's for $300 and 2 of the amps for $100. From what i've been reading the AudioPipe amps are decent budget amps. I might just run one of the SX off the MD1D and see how that goes.

Hi I am thinking of purchasing off CL 2 SX 10's (12 spoke style basket) and 2 AudioPipe APSM-1300 for $400? It sounds like a great deal but wanted to get some 2nd opinions. Thanks... Also I don't really know about the AudioPipe brand in general, are they decent or cheap stuff? This is to upgrade from my 2 SE 10's currently on a US Amps MD1D...

Pics please... I need help with a old sub broken tinsel lead...

Hi I would like to find out if there is any big advantages to changing out my daily driver RE Audio SE10 (pre US AMPS takeover) to a SKAR VVX10 or SA-10. I have a current box built with approx 1.25cu tuned to 34hz, and will probally be using the same box. I want to try out a new sub only if it is better. Also running off a US AMPS Merline MD1D @ 1ohm. Thanks for any input.

PM sent as well... Thx...

So mainly DCON or SA so far, I looked into the Fi SSD and it takes 800RMS. I don't think the amp will push it well. Is that correct? Also everyone is mainly saying 12", is it going to be a big difference between a single 12 vs 10? Trying to save as much trunk space as possible. Also looks like every one is leaning on the ported side as well. No one here likes the RE's anymore? I remember when all the forums use to be about RE's... How about Skar Audio VVX-12 $169 ( I havent heard much on this sub though) or a Fi X? a 10" in an optimal box will out perform a 12" in a cramped box any day. A 10" driver such as a Dcon in an optimal ported enclosure will sound great on low power. Not much space needed. Since RE started adding "X's" to everything, all their subs have gone People used to talk about them all the time because their old drivers were awesome, and now their new generations are just watered down budget made drivers. As far as the Skars, they are pretty new to the game.. not many people with personal experience. But made around the same people affiliated with SSA (Mark etc...). Fi X would be a nice choice as well for a low price. For low power and space, I'd vote between a 10" Dcon or X in a ported enclosure on about ~300 watts and call it a day. Thanks everyone for the inputs so far. I think i'm going to have him go with the 10" DCON or SA-10 or Fi X ported. Yeah I haven't got to hear any of the new RE's since they changed it to the x at the end. I am running one of the older models SE's when they still had the logo in the middle. With all this now I think I have to try a new setup on my car too...