nevertoomuchbass

oh and i dont know if it makes a difference, but the volume was barely up when it stopped working. My friend was trying to make the rca jack work with his ipod, and the only sound the amp was putting out was the popping noises it always makes when you plug and unplug the rca jack

yeah this amp was not seeing much 11's if any at all. the only times it would see 11's would be whenever i was with my friend cuz id always crank it. he doesnt listen to anything with serious bass like i do, nor does he crank it much cuz the bass it too much for him at full tilt haha and there was no short at the amp terminals. i made sure there were no stray strands when i installed it, and i checked again when he brought it over after it blew. I emailed db-r a few days ago and no reply. should i email sundown too?

You know that makes no sense. Not saying its your fault but regardless. For the most part, this is a 12 volt amp, and can take +4 volts above 12 volts but its bad to go less than 1 volt below? If it's seeing 16v at full tilt, then it obviously has enough amperage for the current draw. If it's dropping into the 11s at full tilt, there isn't enough amperage to satisfy the current draw, shit starts getting really hot. Or am I wrong? maybe sundown is more prone to heating up with low voltage. I've straight up dogged my mmats for 2 hours driving to hatteras, and its not even that hot. lile it'll be pretty warm but not too hot to touch. I used to have a TMA (JL) T2-1000.1, and that thing would burn your damn fingers if you touched it after running it hard

You know that makes no sense. Not saying its your fault but regardless. For the most part, this is a 12 volt amp, and can take +4 volts above 12 volts but its bad to go less than 1 volt below? i was thinking the same thing. cuz I've been running my mats 3000.1 on a stock alt and often go into the 11's at full tilt. never had a problem

okay well that makes sense. i gathered that it was sending the sub a dc signal from how it just went all the way down and stayed there like that. any idea what causes this or why it happens? Your answer in red. I know but like how did the output stage get damaged? this amp is only 6 months old

okay well that makes sense. i gathered that it was sending the sub a dc signal from how it just went all the way down and stayed there like that. any idea what causes this or why it happens?

well i take that back, it wasn't full tilt because we didn't have the amp turned all the way up. but it was at least 3/4 tilt. and voltage was around 12.5 Well 12.5 is well within operating voltage. But it obvisiously doesn't work now, so id get ahold of chris at db-r? yeah i just emailed them. what is acceptable operating voltage? because I've seen people at comps burping with their engine off

well i take that back, it wasn't full tilt because we didn't have the amp turned all the way up. but it was at least 3/4 tilt. and voltage was around 12.5

any idea why though? i bought the amp from a guy who used it for all of 6 hours. and its gotten about a month of daily driving use

checked all connections, checked fuse holder, checked connections at the amp. every things good and tight. stock alt, optima yellow top under the hood (i don't know what model but its the most powerful one they have), and electrical is stock for now. 1/0 big three is on the way. the stock electrical seems to hold it pretty well. at full tilt the lights dim only slightly You can't gauge voltage drop off the amount of light dimming. You probably fried it. You can either contact Jacob or just go directly to http://www.db-r.com/ to get it fixed. in every other car I've done an install in I've been able to. the brightness of the lights always correspond to the movement of the voltage meter. mine hardly moves. how would i have fried it?

checked all connections, checked fuse holder, checked connections at the amp. every things good and tight. stock alt, optima yellow top under the hood (i don't know what model but its the most powerful one they have), and electrical is stock for now. 1/0 big three is on the way. the stock electrical seems to hold it pretty well. at full tilt the lights dim only slightly

Ive got a SAZ-1500D hooked up to a Fi Q 18. It worked great for about 2 months, and all of a sudden the sub made a pop noise, and the amp went into protect mode. Since then, whenever you turn the amp on, the blue light will come on, and then a couple seconds later the sub just goes all the way down (pop noise), and then the amp almost immediately goes into protect mode. It will do this whether the speaker wires are hooked up or not. The local car audio shop told me i blew the amp, but i took the cover off and everything looked fine. anyone know whats going on?

Well ive got my 2 Q's in a temporary sealed box and I think they sound pretty d**n sweet! so If you say they sound horrible in sealed, I cant wait to hear them ported

Well i got rear ended the other day. And when I got hit, my subs slid backwards and into my amp rack. Luckily the only damage was a pretty effed up dustcap. its got some nasty cracks in it, and a hole about an inch in diameter. For now, I just slapped some good ol duct tape on it, But these are almost brand new and id like to keep em looking that way. I emailed Fi and they can send me a new dustcap, But I wouldnt know where to start in the replacement process. So if anyone can tell me how to go about replacing the dust cap, I would greatly appreciate it!

Alright, cool. Thanks guys!