DC Power Rob

Yeah, well they're shipping today so consider the saga over and done with....

We did reinforce them, just need to get them re-plated since the last ones we did we had cad plated... In all honesty, it's not the bracket that's the problem and it doesn't need any reinforcement but we did it to be safe.. We have one local car who's had that same setup for 18 months and hasn't had a SINGLE issue and he has our first gen bracket, BUT, he's running a different housing than the ones that are breaking.. I got a text this afternoon that they were "supposed" to be shipping tomorrow so my fingers are crossed.. Remember, I have 4 different housings I'm waiting for and ~100 or so unit's on backorder.. Trust me, I want these housings WAY worse than any of you...

You dont need a new pigtail, the small white wire isn't used.. That's why it's not included in our adapter harness... You were sent the same plug again.. Just plug it in and everything will work PERFECT.. The ONLY function that white wire serves in the OEM alternator is to shut the battery light out because that white wire is the jumper from the stator wire into the regulator to let the regulator know the alternator is charging. On EVERY other alternator that connection is internal in the alternator, but, because the 3G regulator is "outboard" they have to run the jumper wire.

So now what? Are you going to contact us back or are we in the dark about whats going to happen next? I'm glad you got it but it doesn't help anything Yes, as soon as I have something to contact you guys with. I already told you, multiple times that we should have the frames by the end of the week, it's not the end of the week yet and obviously nothings changed or I would have contacted you. If I have things come into the shop with your real name, how are we supposed to give you the correct info here if I dont know that DarkTinman=Austin Arredondo? How do I know your not John Doe and are waiting for an alternator for a Tahoe? If I cant tie a real name to a Forum name, I have no idea who is asking questions, then try playing that guessing game across 20 forums... You see where I'm coming from?? I'm not trying to be a dick but in *this* situation I'm just as in the dark as everyone else, until the housings show up I have no idea if/when they are coming until I see 'em and I'm more pissed about waiting than you guys are.. These housings are now a MONTH passed when they were supposed to be here, trust me, as soon as they show up everyone will get their alternators and we can all move on....

Got it.. Thank you guys!

Not a problem.. Call Kyle and he will take care of it. I dont really think you want me calling you at 3:30- 4:00 in the morning, so that's why I haven't called you back. Either way, just call Kyle and give him your info and we will take care of it..

Probably that would be because I'm working 18-20 hours a day.. Not to be a smart ass but right now, I personally am literally impossible to get ahold of most days.. If you guys need help, Stan is the easiest to get ahold of during the day, ex 202, if he doesn't answer, leave him a voicemail. Kyle, Dave, and I are usually in the back building and shipping most all day so if you need to catch us, before 9:00 is your best bet, or after 5:30. It's 12:30 now, and I'm still at the shop just finishing my day... Rob Oh i understand. But i have called and left a message with everyone's extention i could get and still I got no answer. Like i said in the other thread. I understand you guys are busy, but it would mean a lot of after leaving SEVERAL voice mails on SEVERAL different peoples machines, i could get at least get ONE call back. I know you are busy but i work also, it's hard to even fit a phone call into my days sometimes. But here i am SOL because my daily drivers DC power alt snapped on me. How about a name to go with a forum name?? I can't look for something if I dont know what Im looking for...

I understand where your coming from, I honestly do.. Some days we have to walk a fine line, sit in the office and answer phones for hours, or handle the calls and emails later and be back in the shop building alternators and getting them on the FedEx truck at the end of the day.. If we sit in the office all day, we cant build, and vice-versa... Most day's aren't too bad but lately we have just absolutely been hammered.. I haven't been to bed before 2:00 in over a week because I'm here late making sure things get done... Since the first of March our already very busy year hit overdrive, and although we are keeping up (barely) with orders we have been hard to get ahold of the last week and a half... I'm still operating under the assumption that I will have castings this week and hopefully will be shipping these backorders this week, as soon as they come in I will post pics up, trust me...

Actually, we did.. I finished up the prototyping on these so we're about ready to roll into production.. We'll have 200 and 220 amp versions, and they are both just stellar units, even better than I was thinking they would..

Probably that would be because I'm working 18-20 hours a day.. Not to be a smart ass but right now, I personally am literally impossible to get ahold of most days.. If you guys need help, Stan is the easiest to get ahold of during the day, ex 202, if he doesn't answer, leave him a voicemail. Kyle, Dave, and I are usually in the back building and shipping most all day so if you need to catch us, before 9:00 is your best bet, or after 5:30. It's 12:30 now, and I'm still at the shop just finishing my day... Rob

What vehicles are you guys waiting for, both Honda's? I have been jumping the foundries shit DAILY about these, and I just keep getting pushed back, another 2-3 days, another 2-3 days.. The first of the three housings is done, and in production, however the other 2 have had to go back to the pattern shop 3 times.. Guys, this isn't about "US" meaning DC Power that's holding these up, we've been waiting a LOT longer than you guys have.. Do you really think that as the owner of the company I like losing $5k a day in sales because I dont have these, how about a hell no... Our first samples should be here this week, we have about 10 coming and they will leave to you guys the day they show up... I just know I'm tired of taking the beating we take because our vendors cant keep up with us and keep breaking promises....

They'll be shipping this week before I leave to go to UT... Unfortunately we had to do a quick shop remodel the last couple weeks, and I was gone for a week. I just have to get Dave to double check the bracket and make sure everything is golden and I will finish the alts which I just need a couple spare hours to do.. I'm sorry, this last delay has been my bad with me being gone and trying to catch back up.. Unfortunately, we've just been absolutely hammered busy and I still cant get suppliers to get off their ASS and get us parts in a timely manner.. 2 more weeks and we'll have machines thankfully...

We are going to gusset the brackets for sure, just a matter of how exactly. This case just was a fuckup from the get go from the machine shop, hence why we cast it out of A356.. The new housing will fix the problem, but when Dave did the bracket for this we really should have made the adjuster arm out of 3.8".. It was originally designed for our 180, in which case it works like a champ. What I just dont get is the first one we did, on a local car runs 6K watts, beats the ever loving shit out of it, and has had it in for a year now and hasn't had an issue.. I will say one thing though, these Accords shake like a mo-fo under load and the case with the issues it had just wont handle the torsional stress.... A fix is coming, although just not freaking fast enough... Rob

On your truck with that much power, run duals for sure.. I'm going to trim some of the options off the website soon, we have WAY too many options for people.. We build so many different types of alternators that it actually hurts us more than helps us... My recommendation, leave the stock alt alone on the stock battery, and run the secondary to the system. You can also run your mid-high amps off the stock system if you want, and keep the sub amps separated, or run them all together. The problem on your truck is running an RVC (PCM Controlled) alt in the factory, and a normal 4 pin in the secondary location, they just dont play well together.. IF you dont want to run a dual (which I would highly recommend) we have our heavy-hitter alternators coming.. The new monster I'm building will do 330-340 and well over 200 at idle (think 230-240~ish) and with a couple of batteries it would run 6K no problem. Really, it just depends on your budget and what you want to spend. You have one of those systems where one 300+ amp alt wont power it along with the truck's loads, but, you can run a dual kit with a smaller alt for about equal money to what a single premium H.O. alt will cost you, but with a dual your doubling power for equal or less money, and dual's win this battle hands down... If you need more info or more help though, dont be afraid to call or post up here and I'll help you out any way I can.. Rob

Unfortunately being what it is the ONLY thing it's going to fit is a VW... That's the bad thing with Bosch alts, there is NO interchangeability with them.. Your best bet is trying to sell it James and then I'll hook you up when you get your Civic, or whatever else you end up getting.. Rob

We are going to do a dual on this at sometime in the future, I just need a vehicle and a couple days to do it... Getting things to work on, is my ONLY holdup to doing new products.. It will come and hopefully sometime soon!

Just send it in, we can just swap cases... The beauty of XPs, they fit just about everything!!

You are right about your suspicions on your truck. The reason you never see 14v is because it takes the stock alt that long to catch up and get the voltage up. It's charging right from startup, just not enough.. For a single alt, run an XP hands down, and add another down the road. You can get a factory dual set cheap If you can find one used, and we are also working on another kit for that as well. 7.3's don have great belt wrap, so it's kind of hard to go too crazy, but XPs will do 180-190 at at idle all day long, and that's what's most important.. Any way you want to go we have you covered, this is just one of those vehicles that XPs just excel on...

The new housings are done, at this point we are just waiting for them to machine the fixture so they can start machining the new housings.. We've discussed this before in a diff thread so I won't get into the why again, just that it's already been addressed and the new housings WON'T break... PM me your email address and I'll send you a pic of the new housing... Rob

Yes, we have them, but they are not the funnest thing to install.. Good news though, you can run duals in a TB I6.. And on the 4Runner, the kits in development, actually the first part is about done it's just getting time to finish everything and get it on a vehicle for testing...

270XP's are the brutes that we build, built specifically for max output at idle. They are the smallest, lightest, and pound for pound the highest output alternator you can get.. In simple terms, for your car, you just cant get better. What every high output alternator should be.. Ok.. Using round numbers, X wattage consumption, at Y voltage = Z current draw. If wattage is constant, the higher the voltage, the lower current required, the lower the voltage the higher current required. Pure physics, Ohm's law, just not something you can get around.. I don't know exact top end numbers for the 3500, but assume it's 4500 watts.. At it's MAX output power of 4500w, at 14v, you need ~320 amps at 100% efficiency, at 80% efficiency (class D amp mean efficiency), you need right at 400 amps of input power to make 4500w (4.5kW) But, iirc with these amps, they wont make anywhere near 4500w at 11v (correct me if I'm wrong) But, lets just say that it does for this example.. At 4500 w and 11v input voltage, you now need about 525 amps to make 4500w. And thats assuming everything else is perfect.. My experience with big amps like a 3500, in REAL world use/daily driving systems is that on average, at average listening volumes, the amp is only running at 75%, and due to the dynamic nature of music, of that, you only average 60% duty cycle of that 75%. So, if you take your 4500w, at 14v, on music, on average, the most current draw you will see will be around 180 amps, PEAK. You may hit higher depending on music, but its only for split seconds here and there. You also have to remember that different frequencies of music make amps do TOTALLY different things power consumption wise. (I used to go through this with snow plow people all the time, they just couldn't understand why they SMOKE their lift motors at 8v) But, that's why people SMOKE AMPS. Lower voltage=higherCurrent=MORE HEAT, I cant remember the exact physics equation and at what square heat increases with current consumption, but, below a certain voltage point it is absolutely ridiculous how much hotter things run at low voltage. I could make really, really good video of exactly what I'm talking about it if I had a truck local with a 3500 that I could throw a dual kit and a 390XP on and isolate the alternator to a battery in the back. Take something off bass mechanic, get 4 fluke meters and measure the output voltage and current of the alternator, and the output voltage and current of the amp and watch what happens. What you would see would be exactly what I am talking about, 60% of the time you'd be at 75% of the amps capacity, with the other 40% split over or under that 75% mark. What else you will see, is the alternator will be going from 20-350 amps and back to 20, and all the while it will be running 80º cooler than the stock alternator making 100 amps continuous. On some music, sure, you may get the amp to it's peak, but it's for 1/10 of a second every 4 seconds, it's NOT 80% of the time. TL:DR The whole point in this is that most people never run their amps hard enough to get them anywhere near their peaks for very long, therefore they dont need as big a charging system as they think.

I can do one, I know without question we can do it, but the kit's going to be in the upper $300's/low $400s.. This is something that wont be done until late spring/early summer unless I have a big demand to move it up.. It can be done though.. Rob

I know it sucks, believe me.. This is one of those times though that I'm telling you 100% it will be worth the wait.. I wont say exactly what Im doing, but you'll be the first person with a 250+ amp alt in a Mazda 3 that actually works.. If I wasnt in the middle of 30 other projects right now, it would be sooner, but it should be sometime in March when we have it done so it's not like it's going to be June.. Your better off waiting and doing it once, than do this one half assed because trust me, your going to be more pissed off dropping 4 Bennies on something that your not happy with.. Just trust me on this one.. I don't take this kind of stance very often, unless I have a really, really good reason to.. Rob

Yes, in your engine it will. Its not an easy install, but the jeep mounting and that mounting are identical. They are just rotated 180º the way they mount.. We've done a few of these though, so I am 1000% certain that this does work on that engine. If you have any other questions though, please dont be afraid to ask... Rob

It wasn't you that made me mad bro.. Believe me, it wasn't you in ANY way.. I fully understand your position, and believe me I have about 50 other customers in the same position waiting on this or that to come out. It SUCKS to need something, and not be able to get it. I am telling you straight up tho, throwing down $400+ for an alternator now just because you can doesn't make it a good idea. It's kind of like buying a 5 year old computer and paying premium $$$ for it just because you need it right now and it's the only thing available for it, and having the newest, fastest technology coming out in a month.. Yeah, I know you need it bad, I'm telling you, save your $$ and wait, something better is coming... What pissed me off is I am just amazed at what some people will tell someone just to get a sale.. Just FYI, your stock alternator is built on the A2T Mitsubishi platform which is now over 25 years old, which in charging systems terms, is ancient! A 200 amp alternator built from that, is going to be worse than your stock alternator at idle, and there's no way around it. 200 amps, is over 200% of your alternators stock output, pushing a unit like that, that hard is just not smart from a durability standpoint, let alone messing with the PCM.. We stopped building on those alternators 2 years ago because they are just NOT good HO units.. We will build something for the Mazda's this year that is designed AS a HO unit, something 200-250 amps, that will have 140-150 at idle, and something worth putting MY name on. Until we can do that, we just wont sell it. If we were in this business just to take money, I'd already have had your money and built you an alternator, no matter how good it was or wasn't.. The point is, we know better, and we wont do it because I know for 1000% sure, you wont be happy with it.. And If I know you wont be happy with it, then why the hell am I selling it to you in the first place?? This is just a very touchy subject for me, there are at least 10 of our competitors that do things like this on a daily basis, they just want the cash and dont give 2 shits about anything other than making the sale, just because they have something they call "High Output".. Let me translate "high output" in their terms, "Well it IS higher output than stock, so it HAS to be better and hey, just because it's higher output, we can get people to pay MORE money for it. Who cares how it actually works in the car, we got the customers money now!!!".. Trust me, I take 20 phone calls a week, at least, from guys like you, they are ALL the same. "Hey, I bought an alternator for my car, and I'm still having the same problems, or it's even WORSE than my stock alternator" Where did you buy it? I bought it from _________, well, there's your problem...... Anyways /Rant