DC Power Rob

Harvey, it shipped today. You should have a tracking number by now, if not I will have Kyle get it to you..

It's the belt slipping.. It's not so much a matter of belt *tightness* as much as it is tightness vs. surface contact area... If you only are contacting say 60º of the pulley, that may be a problem no matter how tight it is.. The fact it was doing it while driving and not at idle lends more towards this theory.. We can send you a bigger pulley if you want, but I would really like a pic of the pulley and belt to get an idea of how the belt wrap is.. Glad to see you got it in though, and sorry about my bad measuring on the rear spacers.. Rob

Harvey, we didnt get the brackets done until way late Friday, so this will be leaving Monday.. Thanks again for your patience.. Rob

The XP is the alternator to get if your going to switch vehicles.. We can re-case it to fit just about anything whereas with any other alternator, your pretty much stuck with a *like* vehicle.. Either way, those 2 alts are flagship units and you cant go wrong with either one...

Rick, if you want to call and order, talk to Stan Ext 202 and he will get you taken care of. If you would rather have one of us call, just let us know when's best and we'll call you then. I just built 8 of these so they are ready for shipping same day you order. Rob

$125 a pop for 1" solid carbide 3 flute endmills... Some of the tools we got were just ridiculous, but the up front money in tooling makes much, much faster and much, much better parts.. I just finished all of the alternators btw, I think Earthman got all the brackets welded on Friday so these will all be shipping tomorrow (Monday)... Thanks for being patient everyone..

Kyle obv ninja'd the vid... Just venturing to guess, I'd bet the voltage drops are from engine rpm drops, not the alternator.. Most 4 cyl cars hit a wall at some point and start to drop.. Still pretty impressive on 3Kw, at idle, and with the defrost on blast. That's where XPs are just win, win, win though... Thanks for posting those up Eric!

Julian, I thought we got you credited. I did not know we hadn't done yet.. As soon as you can get ahold of us to give us your CC info we'll get it handled. Just talk to Kyle and he'll handle it for you. Rob

Harvey, this should leave tomorrow.. Gonna be a fun day tomorrow....

Randy, I've been trying to call you off and on for the last week, give me a call when you get a chance... Rob

With a 2" pulley, your not dropping too much in pulley diameter and we really haven't ever had anyone have this problem (that we've heard).. The whole point in running a 2" pulley on that car is to A) get better belt wrap, and B) avoid belt changes.. I must have deleted the pic I took of your alt on my way home last week, got kind of angry sitting in traffic and was deleting pics.. I know it ran 214 on the top and did ~115 or so at idle though. Next time I run one I'll make sure i take a pic for you though, and I guarantee you it will be within .5-1% of what you have.. if you need any help with a belt, please let us know.. Rob

We can go 2 ways here.. I can build you a true 150 that will do about ~110 at idle, or I can do a 200 that will do ~130 or so at idle.. Cost wise your going to be about $350 for the 150, and $400 for the 200.. These are also NEW alternators, not rewound stock cased units so they are a little more pricey but performance wise they'll blow ANYTHING on the market away.. They will be 100% direct bolt on as well, and use stock diameter pulleys so no belt changes either (and the idle output numbers I gave were for that)..

Unless we run into some other problem they'll ship tomorrow.. The frames are all cut, just got to fix the brackets up and we're good to go.. *fingers crossed*

No need for an apology... In short, the SP is the largest Delco-Remy (GM) large case alternator we build on, the XP is a large case Denso alternator. The SP is old school tech with wire wound (loops of wire) stators, the XP is latest technology and uses hairpin winding. They both have REALLY similar outputs on paper, but hands down the XP is the better alternator. At industry standard ratings, they're within 10 amps at "idle" but on some vehicles that spread can be 60-70 amps as the SP drops off quick below idle, the XP carries it's output to sub-idle speeds. The XP also has 12 diode rectifiers, the SP's have 6.. For the money right now, by the XP's because they're going up at the end of the month, or off sale I should say.. In short, flip a coin as they are both better than ANY alternator you can buy in that output range, if your looking to save a little more coin, the 280 pro which is the little brother to the SP is still one mean little alternator, and at ~$400 is hands down the best alternator for the money on the market and is what we sell most of for the GM's, but it's like a 37, 35, 28 split (roughly) PRO->XP->SP.. Im working on a good explanation graphic to clear this confusion up so sorry about the confusion...

Gio, if you already have a GM alt in there, send me a pic of your setup. The hardest part of doing a conversion like that is the bracket work, which you already have done. If I can see how yours is setup, I'm pretty sure I can get you what your looking for, and get it pretty quick. Rob

Overtime is an understatement, my brother and I pulled 8 straight 18 hour days and shipped 300+ units last week... Looking forward to a couple days off for sure.. Bangin, I'll start hunting for a bracket and get going. Kryptonite, I have have what I need for yours, just give me a few weeks and I should have those done. Iced, I'm just trying to figure up a labor cost on installing the dual and I'll shoot you a package price over..

normally yes, but I don't have a profile saved yet for that model so it won't *print* the output curve. I do have a pic of it on my phone, pm me your emaill addy and I will email it to you.. Thanks again, Rob

:fing34: Good to hear, I'm really glad that this is finally gonna be on the way to my house! You WILL have it tomorrow, as promised.... I did manage to get at least one thing done right this week.. lol

Next week, yes.. ALL of the alternators are actually built, but now I have to tear them down so I can machine them. I cant machine them until I get one stinking tool so I can make a fixture. As soon as I get that I'll make the fixture and run them. If I don't get it by Tuesday I will have someone just do it for us so I can get them out. I would have already done that but all the shops we deal with all have jobs running on their machines.. The new housings worked great for Toyotas because they mount on the opposite side of the adjusting ear.. I'm sorry about the additional delay, I just didn't forsee this one coming..

Gio, your really pushing the limits of what your looking for on that car.. Just based off experience I dont think even if the alternator was capable of 130 amps at idle, your motor wouldn't turn it. Modern motors do because they compensate much better for load, but the older ones wont.. We can do something in that output range, but you won't get the idle output your looking for (in any alternator) because of your engine limitations.. Rob

I'm guessing you didn't see in the other thread that I told him that I would still fix it..

Either the bracket or PS pump got backordered from GM which is why he doesn't have it yet.. The rest of it I told Randy the last time I talked to him would take me a few weeks to get to him... Some things no matter how fast I personally want them done can get done any faster than other people allow, I wish you guys understood that instead of thinking that we're just dicking him around...

Just to give you guys an update... Our fabricator is backed up and I don't want to wait for brackets to be made so we are going to just face the casting where it needs to be so it matches the billet case and we'll be good to go. I'm just waiting on some tooling to come in for the mill that was backordered and as soon as i get it it will take me all of an hour to load the tool, write the program, and run ALL the parts... Either way, it will be faster than waiting for the fab shop. I'm sorry guys.. Just FYI, the difference is the thickness of the new casting vs the billet one on the adjustment ear. Our casting matches the stock Denso thickness, whereas the billet one was thinner (thickness wise).. Machining the castings like this will in NO way affect the strength of the casting as the problem area was on the pivot foot, and all we need to do is machine the rear face of the adjustment ear..

Fear not, it will be there Friday.. I wont let you down..

On this one, we normally would need to have the alt back, but I have some things on order to make it so you could do the install. The regulator has to be hard wired, and it's just not fun to do on those and the way we're going to be doing it will make it much, much friendlier to do.. Rob