DC Power Rob

We have a really solid 250 for these that will be your best bet.. They'll do an honest 140-150 at idle, which for your car and pulley ratios is outstanding.. You can run a large case GM in there with brackets, but in all honesty the Bosch alternator on that car is a better alternator and will outrun most GM AD244's at idle because of the pulley ratios.. I almost did an XP for these during our last production run, but I only had 150 slugs cut and needed the pieces I was going to use for those for another part.. We get a fair amount of requests for Mercedes stuff, so we will probably do the XP's at some point, but as Phi mentioned, on some cars the XP's are just tooooo much alternator.. On the Mercedes I would also have to deal with the pulleys because the stock pulley is too small in diameter to run an XP, just too much alt and not enough pulley.. Let me know what you think, Rob

Honestly, a single 250XP and a couple batteries will be fine.. I would run our PCM bypass and internally regulate the alternator just because it will run stronger on your vehicle which runs an extra $80, but it's well worth it on vehicles like yours.. From our experience with the amp your running though, 250 should be plenty.. Rob

You would be looking right at $305 shipped for our large case GM version.. They will do over 200 cold, and on your 4Runner you should see right at 120 or so at idle.. I ran the same unit on my old Tacoma, they are really solid alternators.. Rob

Actually, I will have to have them send you a new resistor, I just remembered that when we sent that we were out of resistors for the bypass.. the resistor in the harness you have to leave for the new alternator..

Stefan, for the relay: The Red & Blue wire with ring terminals go to the positive output stud of the new alternator, the white wire with the ring terminal is ground, and the short red wire is just any switched 12+ (key on/Key off).. You have the molded harness which can be problematic.. In your picture, "A" is the original B+, C is ground, and B1 & B2 is the field connections for the stock alternator which are not used. Because you have the molded plug, it's probably going to be easier to cut the molded plastic apart to get the B+ and ground out, and cut the 2 small wires (which is for the actual bypass of the PCM).. I'm not sure what connector A is, I haven't seen that before that I remember (been a long time since Ive been under the hood of one of those. The only thing you need for the new alt to function is contained in that relay, just plug it in, give it switched 12+ and your good to go.. If you need anything else, give me a call on my cell.. 801-618-9586

Just FYI, you can also run our PCM bypass and internally regulate your alternator as well.. It may not seem like a big upgrade going from what you have to a 180, but with the big increase in efficency, idle output, and higher voltage you would definitely notice a big difference. You dont always need 200+ amps to run big power, Kyle's car was the best proving ground ever for that.. A kickass super efficient 180 will OWN another 220 that's not efficient because we give up less to heat, and carry a 60 amp spread at idle.. A 220 that does 170 hot with 70 at idle is just NOT a better unit than a 180 that does 160 hot, and 120-130 at idle...

Thank you for the kind words Stefan.. Just FYI Stefan, i should be picking up the frames for your alternator from the anodizer today. They were supposed to have been done last Thursday, but, since I had them do a quote for something else they held up the ENTIRE order until they got the quote done instead of running the parts which held us up.. Here's a pic of one that's not anodized for you..

Unfortunately, you have an uphill battle on this car.. You have a 1.0L 3 cylinder, and a 3 groove belt which is going to make things tough.. Im sure we could make something that would fit, but you dont have enough engine or belt to drive something big. It may not seem like a big deal, but we've put 180's on some 4 cyl cars in the shop, and at idle they just run into a wall because the engine will only turn so much alternator at idle. With the power your running, a 180 would work best because your really past the physical limits of what the belt will turn.. Im not trying to talk you out of it or anything, Im just trying to be realistic with you so you know what to expect.. Let me know.. Rob

Yes, it is a 4G.. I usually only build 4G's if I absolutely have to.. We've had customers hang XP's on the SOHC before, but you have to modify the valve cover (if I remember correctly). If you want to build a bracket, I would just need to know what mounting style alternator you want.. A Vortec style dual spool mount is usually the best, but whatevers handy would work if your making your own.. I've never seen a single HO 4G alternator that would come close to matching a stock 4G's output at "true" idle, and I've seen them all. Sorry for the rant if it comes across that way, it's just that 4G alternators by design, even in OEM form are an abomination, and IMHO anyone who builds HO versions of them needs their heads examined, that or strung up by their toes..

Ouch... This is EXACTLY what I was referring to in the other thread I made yesterday.. Products blatantly mis-represented. You got a small case 118mm Denso alternator with a "hot" stator in it, and they just dont work.. The issue right now on the '92-'93 Accord is they have a totally different mounting than the '94+ and we haven't made something for it yet.. Kyle's neighbor has a '93 that we'll be doing in the next couple weeks so we will have this one soon.. We'll have our 170 OEM, and our 180HP for these. Both will do an honest 110-120 hot at idle which will be more than plenty for your 2000.. Kyle ran a 180 on a 3500D at .5 for about 6 months trying to break it, like, hammering on it 2-3 hours a day on his commute with no issues. If it will run a 3500 at .5, it wont have any trouble running a 2000.

We've had a ton of inquiries for new models of our XP series alternators recently, and we're just finishing up our most recent production run of housings.. We have the following new models coming out now.. I'll post up pics of the alts as soon as the frames get back from the anodizer and I get production versions built.. XP series alternator for Most Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep This is what we call a 6/12 straddle or "J" mount.. This fits pretty much everything Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep produced from '88-'02 That wasn't a 4.7V8 XP series alternator for Mazda/Mitsubishi/Subaru This is another 6/12 straddle or "J" mount, and is almost a universal Japanese mount alternator, literally thousands of applications.. XP series alternator for GM/Delco Remy CS144 6/12 style.. This is one we should have done a long time ago, primarily used in GM fullsize cars, Cadillacs, Impala SS etc. XP series alternator for Ford 3" spool 6/12 mount This fit's pretty much everything Ford made from '64-'96.. Ford Trucks, 5.0 Mustangs etc.. Most popular Ford mount ever.. XP series alternator for Honda B18 Civics Designed just to fit B18 Civics to replace the pathetic 70A Stock alternator.. Direct bolt on and will "only" make 150 amps at idle hot with a 2.4" pulley.. XP series alternator for Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep 3.8L V6 Designed primarily for late model Jeep Wranglers, but will fit anything '04+ from Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep with a 3.8L V6 XP series alternator for Mitsubishi I4 and V6 engines. Will fit many different Galant, Lancer, 3000GT etc... This is kind of Mitsubishi's "standard mount.. XP series alternator for GM LS engines.. Will fit 2010 Camaro, G8, GTO, and every Corvette made from '97+ exc the LS9 in the ZR1 We are also looking for vehicles to do installs in in Southern California, so if you have any of the above vehicles and are in So-Cal and want a great deal on an alternator let us know.. We'll do the install, shoot pics and vids, and you'll get a nice discount on the alt, so it's a win-win..

As soon as someone brings us a SOHC Explorer, we will definitely have a dual kit for this.. For some reason, SOHC Explorers are non-existant in So-Cal Yes, you could run 2 stock small case CS130D's in this bracket.. I'm not sure about cost yet, but probably in the mid-upper $200's or thereabouts... This kit is going to need 3 idler pulleys, and at $24 a pop, they start to add up.. I'm pretty sure that most customers would spend a few more dollars though to get more than 180º belt wrap on the pulleys so there's NO belt slip.. Also, if your in So-Cal, we can definitely work something out. Rob

Since I am the one who heads up product development here at DC Power, I would like to get some input from the members here about products you guys are looking for that we may/may not already have.. I think we are more known as a "high priced" manufacturer because that's what our specialty is, building the biggest, baddest, meanest alternators you can get.. However, we also have a lot of other things we can do, we just dont get asked alot for them. Not only that, I think most people automatically assume that "I need a 200 amp alternator" when they dont. My goal is to get a lot of input from the community here about what is MOST important to you for charging system needs. Our alternator lineup is already far and away the most comprehensive in the industry (we just dont have them all up on the website, YET).. By the end of next week, there should be about 40K products up on our website which will be MUCH easier to find products. I also know not every person needs something like a 270XP that's $600+, and we as a company wont try to sell people on that just because we have it. Because of that, we are bringing out a WHOLE new lineup of alternators that are going to be in the mid-upper $200's to upper $300's just for those customers because as a company, we know we can build a better built, better performing, longer lasting alternator, and make it affordable for those who dont either have a need, nor the budget for our high end products.. Just because we build em big, doesn't mean we can't build em small.. If you have a $250 budget, $300 budget, $350 budget, MY goal is to make sure that we as a company are offering our customers the best "value" our customers can get, and assure they get something that both exceeds their needs, and expectations. We see a LOT of customers buying cheap, poor performing products that dont do what they need, when they could buy something much better in performance, quality, and fit.. Case in example, 200-220 amp small case Delco alternators.. WHY?? As in WHY does anyone think it's a good idea to even build them? They make squat at idle, will only make 150 amps hot, and are all but guaranteed to be cheap chinese parts. We have a special AD244 that we build that WILL do 200+ cold, 165 all day long hot, 130 at idle no problem, is 100% USA made, and is the same price. Same thing on a lot of the Fords, a "good" large case alternator will run close to 200 cold, good idle output, and will outrun even the very best HO small case Ford alternator around on a bad day.. We get SO many calls from people that have wasted money on alternators that wont work because for one, as buyers of high output alternators your just being outright lied to. 220 Amp small case CS130's that "Fit everything" (Ring a bell). As the owner of a company that makes GOOD high output alternators, it makes me sick to see things like that, and that's just one example. Why does it make me sick? Because I know (from seeing just about every alternator built from every one of our competitors) that it's 99% BS..

We have a dual kit for the Titan, that should work on the 4.0 as well.. We already have the XP's done for the Nissans, but I would love to have one in the shop though to do an install.. The Expedition on the other hand, we have the dual bracket, and *could* do a triple, we know how we're going to do it, just haven't got around to it.. Duals on a Triton V8 wasn't exactly easy, (esp compared to a GM) triples on a Triton V8, would be sick but is going to be an engineering marvel to be sure.. We're down though..

This is being built now.. I'd say after on vehicle testing, will be available in 3 weeks tops.. We're setting this up to run either a pair of our 320HP's, or a stock sm case and one 320HP.. Im not sure *yet* if we can run one lg case, and one sm case, but I doubt it on the S10.. Just FYI though, 2 of our 320's will do about 270 or so at idle which is realistically the limit of what the engine will actually turn at idle..

If I'm right, our CS144 version XP would fit that perfect.. You may need to make some support brackets, but the 2 main mounting points and pulley offset should be right on the money.. The advantage of our XP in this case, it's about 3/4" shorter in the back than a "stock" CS144 Delco alt so it would clear, where another one wouldn't.. Definitely possible though..

Kyle and I have been working on that behind the scenes.. By the end of next week, there should be 100k products or so updated on the website... We have about 20k or so done now, they are just not visable..

I would have to check my reference book for dimensions to make sure, but that shouldn't be a problem to handle.. Your only limitation is the 2V belt setup on bigger alternators, but you should be able to run 200 or so without any issues.. Rob

We can do pretty much anything you want.. Just depends on how bad a$$ you want it, and how much you want to spend.. We can do anything from 200 amps, 270 and 200 at idle, to 400+.. Just really depends on what you want in the end. One way or another though, we have you covered.. Rob

Just FYI, I finally got ahold of Randy.. His alternators are done, have been forever.. I've been waiting on other people to get their sh*t done so I can finish his bracket, he's known this. The problem is I was gone the last 3 weeks, and then we've been so busy that when he calls, I havent been able to answer. When I called him, I had the wrong number.. I haven't been avoiding him, or anyone who calls me, I just spend 9 hours a day on the phone and am damn near impossible to get ahold of most days if I'm not in the office. Yes, he's been waiting a long time, but we're not exactly building him something "normal", we're building him something extremely special, and something he will be extremely happy with, and he will have it soon, I just have to do it a different way. If I had CNC machines in house, it would have been done forever ago, but we dont, not yet anyways, but they ARE coming.. Rob

and actually i was looking at the wrong one 289 w/o shipping I apologize for not replying in our section, but I saw this first.. We've been absolutely hammered busy this week.. There is so much wrong in what he said I can't even comprehend it... Max output at 1200? Really? FYI, 1200* 3.5 is 4200 alt RPMs, uh-huh, suuuuure.. Prove it! Think logically about it, a stock small case CS130D, 220 amps hot? That's at least 275-280 cold which happens to be just shy of 300% more output than stock? Not happening, not ever. Let me translate what he really means, 210 amps max, cold, and 30 or so amps at idle on a good day.. Im not singling PB out here, it's ANY and ALL manufacturers that think 100 amp small case Delco alternators are good for 220+ amps and claim their cooling is "great". Just dont do it, especially when there are better, cheaper options... Just a direct comparison, we have a straight 200 amp CS/AD hybrid large case that will do 130 at idle hot, all day every day that is only $269 and is a direct bolt on, a 230/140 idle that is $329, and we can do a 250 that will do 140-150 at idle for $389..

This is kind of a trick question.. lol Our normal 270 amp AD244 is $429 for that car, our 270SP (big brother to the AD244) is $499, and the 270XP is $629... All 100% new, 100% USA made, and have 2 year warranties... Rob

I called twice around 6:15 PST tonight, just got voicemail.. Call me tomorrow evening on your way home. Dave and I have been tied up with meeting after meeting after meeting lately so we have been pretty hard to get ahold of with Kyle gone.. Rob

Which vehicle is it for, the Jeep or the Jetta? We can do it easily in either vehicle though, so no problems there. We have the 270XP for the Jeep, and we have a 240, 260, and 300 for the VW. Your only limitation on the Jetta is the 260 and 300 both have more output at idle than the 4cyl engine has the ability to drive. The 300 will do 200+ at idle no problem on a V6 VW though, and the 260 will do 180 continuously at about 600 engine RPM.. Let me know if there is anything I can do for you.. Rob

Well at the moment its 2,000, but id like to have room for around 4,000 eventually, assuming i can afford it. The more output the merrier. Granted there is a point where the return vs the cost is isn't worth it anymore. I.E. If it is like 200 dollars more for an extra 20 amps etc. I don't compete this is merely a hobby so I'm constrained by budgets lol Oh and I'd say 160 or more at idle seems to be the going standard. Of course the more the merrier. I guess if you have more than one option just let me know the price for both. You are right there, but with one exception, very few of the alternators rated at that actually do it. I get a kick out of people who say "it will make 160 amps by 800 engine RPM's idle", great.. If we rated things that way 80% of what we sell will do over 200 amps at 800 engine RPM's...