AllenH427

I'm looking into adding some pro audio into my car.. I pretty much have everything ready except some pro audio mids. I'm looking to run them off channels 3&4 on my Arc FD 4150 and want them to get some power. The reason they need to get a lot of power vs your standard 8 ohm mid is because I'm running 2 crescendo supertweets of a Arc FD 2100 and they are screaming (see distance video below.) I'm really only looking into 1 mid per side so I can fit the supertweet and mid in a kick panel I'm planning on making.

I have Alpine Type-X refs on channels 1 and 2 right now. I'm into SQ (not dedicated) a bit so I want to run these primarily. The with an rca splitter, run the pro audio stuff (3&4 and 2chan amp) so I can fade-in the Rear RCA output when I want the PA playing. I'm not planning on listening to the PA daily, so I don't care about stereo all too much.

I'm looking into the Selenium 6w4ps. They are 8 ohm drivers as well. http://www.arcaudio.com/archives/fd-man.pdf Here's the manual to my amp, the 4150, page 7 is probably what you'll want to look at. I'm thinking, if I wire the drivers in parallel, thats a 4 ohm load, and if I run them bridged on inputs 3&4, each input will be seeing a 2 ohm load. So technically, the drivers (combined) will be seeing 320 watts (80@4, 160@2.) Is this correct? I know that I'll lose left and right stage but that's okay.

Thanks a bunch guys, I'm used to sensitivity not actually meaning something.

That just seems weird to me, a mid on 40w of power doesn't seem like it'd be as loud as a mid on 80w or even 160w for 2 ohms. That's a ton more power. Jay-cee, I'll PM you here in a bit.

Yeah, this is last November's Black Fi-Day X 10" they had a sale on.. finally got around to putting some power to it as well as building my first box. In the video, I didn't want to push the sub to the limit to avoid blowing it, it seemed like it could take another click on the HU though. Obviously a video is what it is, but let me tell you that this sub sounded so good and flat, it was incredible.

I completely disagree that being on a team would not get anything but bragging rights. Teams are formed for much more than merchandise discounts and free swag. A team name often symbolizes a group of people that have common interests and goals. A constructive team has numerous benefits. 99% of the people that ask to be on the team only care about getting a 'Team...' sticker on their vehicle, as well as discounts. Guess I'm that 1% that just likes to be part of a team. Team Fi on facebook better accept my request if they know what's good for them.

It's amazing what acoustics can do to help and hurt either the quality of the sound you hear or the loudness of it. With the sub facing up, your port facing to the side and your back seat out you were very likely getting a fair amount of cancellation as the wave passed back and forth through the opening. Glad to see it done and hear that you're enjoying it, I told you those 10's weren't even going to compare in output. Never really thought about back seats actually helping, but now that you pointed out his box orientation, I can see why cancellation is possible. Nice job on fitting an 18 in the trunk, pretty sweet!

Don't take this as a definite answer, but in my opinion, I can't see it mattering. A piece of wire is a piece of wire, end to end is all one solid piece.. plus it has high conductivity. The only time I see having too long of a ground being a problem is if it's 4-5x the length of the power wire, and it still probably won't be a problem then.

Not many people know of this method, but it's the absolute BEST answer and BEST method of doing it. Here's the steps: Take a longgggg 16/18awg or small wire and connect it on your front battery's negative terminal. Now, pinch of other end of the wire with the positive or negative DMM probe. Next, take the other probe and start testing bolts. Resistance will read 0 if the bolt is (technically) connected to your front batteries negative terminal. Now, whether you're grounding and amp or battery to that bolt, you will know that it's using the same ground as your front battery!

Compared to me and the people who actually have kids, its 100% effective if your doing it right. You dont wait for the first pump, thats not pulling out , like I said mind over matter. You have no idea how the male reproductive system works. By first pump he means when your penis enters the vagina. Obviously I do or this would be my thread. No, those two things are not interdependent, you being full of shit has nothing to do with you not starting a thread like this But please oh master of anatomy and physiology, explain how "mind over matter" keeps your precum from having sperm in it, that's some Charlie Sheen level bullshit right there. The pull out method is not 100% effective "if you're doing it right", Condoms are not 100% effective if you're doing it right, and the pill is not 100% effective if you're doing it right. The fact that you haven't gotten someone pregnant using any of those methods doesn't mean that makes them 100% effective. If you go to vegas to play blackjack and win every time it doesn't mean the odds of winning in blackjack are 100%, it means you got lucky. Go do some reseach buddy cause I did mine, pre cum or pre-ejaculation does not hold sperm (except for certain circumstances). The chances of getting a women pregnant from pre-ejaculation is very rare or very, very, very low. Common sense would tell you if pre-ejaculation was that high of a factor in the causes of women getting pregnant there would be way more kids baby daddy's/mamma's out there. Now if you pre-ejaculate after you ejaculate then yes it will contain some sperm. Pre-ejaculation is more so a sex lubricant and it prepares your sperm for ejaculation, only a small (very, very, very small group of men produce semen with there pre-ejaculation if they havent ejaculated already). But im pretty sure you knew this already. Oh yeah luck keeps me from getting a woman pregnant, haha c'mon son. In my opinion, it's not worth taking a chance cause sometimes you can't feel the initial POW POW POW WAKA WAKA POW POW FLOCKA POW POW POW... you get the point. If she's not on birth control, wrapping it up is the only way to go and it only happens on special occasions. I'm a poor man, I can't afford a kid.

Stetsom amps are notorious for not being able to handle a load below 1 ohm... I HIGHLY encourage you to NOT run it at .5 ohm.

Here's from my personal experience. Basically, you have a good alt, need more batts... I had stock alt but good batts. Say I listened to a specific song, happened on quite a few songs actually- with my stock alt, voltage would get down to 12.0-12.3 and start clipping. Now, I can sit at over 14.0V on the same song, actually turn it up louder and don't experience any clipping. Look into adding an extra battery, like the XS D3100 should do the trick.

Biggest XS Power battery you can fit under the hood, then a single XS D3100 in the back. That and a 220A alt from Mechman will give you plenty of room for upgrade down the road. Personally, I'd wire it to one ohm, you just have to know what you're doing. Basically, don't be stupid with the gain, check the cone for warmth or smell the port for a burning smell. Also, if you hear distortion, turn it down!

I vouch for the man!

A 300 amp alt is overkill. Mechman has a killer deal for 3 more days, a 220A for $350. That the biggest XS Power battery you can fit under the hood, and a single XS D3100 in the back and you'll be able to support a 3.5KW system. For sub choice, Fi BTL N2, of course.

Edit* Found it, guess I should've googled first, sorry.

Does anyone have the TS parameters for the Black Fi-Day X, specifically the 10"?

You would have to measure and see what the maximum volume box you can fit in being your two front seats are. I've seen a lot of people in trucks to subs/port up. If 18s won't fit, I can guarantee you that 15s will. Also, for those two amps, you'll need some stronger batteries than yellow tops. Yellow tops are a fine battery, don't get me wrong, but they are not ideal for car audio. The max amperage on them is low and that's what you want in car audio batteries. Look into XS. Mechman provides a solid alternator as well.

Okay, so what I'm picking up here, my single flared 6" aero in my 4.2 cube net box, is too small. Basically, if I play a lower note (I'm tuned to 33hz) ~35hz and lower, it blows a tremendous amount of wind out. My burp frequency is 38 hz and I raise from .7 to 4.5 ohms. This all has to do with my port being to small and it acting more like a severely leaky sealed box correct?

Haters always gon hate

Are your rear speakers in the back deck? If so, I'd have to aeros that you can seal up around and fire through the speaker holes. Trust me when I saw this, when the BTL gets some power, you won't even notice your back speakers playing so might as well just take them out. And are yo usure you can't fold your seats down? I saw a guy with a setup in an Impala and he could fold his seats down.. you have an Impala right?

The same guy has 5 alpine 12's in the same style box, hits 146db and does hair tricks http://www.*****.com/board/topic/102482-2001-chevy-impala-ps3-installed-page-9/page__pid__1682643__st__160#entry1682643 Lol, I have quite possibly one of the worst metering cars out there and do a 144 with 2 12s on 1kw clamped. I also saw an impala with I think 6 type r 12s crammed into a impala trunk and only did a 144. Impalas meter well... The trick to a trunk is keeping the air flow nice and open. OP: Sub forward/port back (vice versa whatever) only works for CRXs... That is not a good design for daily. A big thing with trunks now if you can fold down your seats is subs pointing into the cabin, port firing to the side.

^^^A huge box cuts off a lot of air flow. Might hurt your score a little.

Sounds similar to a problem I had before with my old MTX 5500s in a sealed box off of an Alpine MRP-M500. I would play this song: -go to 2:45 Let's say my max volume was 25... at volume 18, the sub would move an okay amount and played at a decent volume. If I put the volume around 25, it actually seemed to get a little quieter but it moved a ton more. To me, it just sounds like a good case of clipping. Clipping we all know increases the coils temperature, and that increases impedance. So say you are wired to 2.8, you may see 4 ohms final for whatever frequency. If you are wired to .7, you might see 12 ohms final if you are clipping. I know first hand the problem you are having, but I'm just taking a guess at why because I always wondered myself. And why are you wired to .7 when the amp is only rated at being 2 ohms stable?