AllenH427

I can recone them into 15s for you, for a price $$$$$$$$$$$$$$ Edit* Before anyone hates, me and Lantz live 10 minutes away from eachother.

Another thread arguing whether clipping hurts or not. From my experience, I can burp all day unclipped and not smell the coils. As soon as a do a clipped burp or two, I can smell the coils. Clipping does induce heat. Duran, burp a square wave.

Truth. A new company just popped up... The dude pretty much woke up out of bed and decided to make his own company because he wanted an amp that he didn't see anybody make, yet it's the same build house as all of the other chinese/korean brands.

My alt doesn't charge at idle, but I never drop below 13.3V when I'm revving the engine . My cars throttle body isn't used with a cable so I'm going to machine something that can push down on my gas pedal gradually the more I crank it, and that'll help for comps too.

You can watch the whole video but more specifically, the clip at 1:20 I can put the bottle in the middle of the window and it goes all of the way down into the corner.

Seems like the turbulence towards the corner has something to do with it.

I keep reading threads about people sending in there subs and waiting for a long period of time, as well as the outrageous shipping prices, just to get some recones. I'll post a video of a guy reconing a N2 for your better understanding of the process, but I recommend doing the process like how I describe (from Nick.) Part 1, watch all 5 parts. Not my video but it will help you understand the terminology. Once again, it is quickest and easiest if you follow the process I write step-by-step. ****************KEEP IN MIND, IF YOU SCREW UP YOUR RECONE, ITS YOUR FAULT AND NOT Fi's. ****************** Nick gave me the courage to do my own recones, and after two weeks of hammering down on them, all is well and I was successful. Ripping out the existing cone: Take a razor, have fun!! Grind the basket where the surround landing and spider landing is if you are still using the same basket. Clean the motor gap with a vacuum, keyboard dustoff, anything air pressure. Cut up an old card and make a loop of tape on the outside around it, shove that thing all inside the gap. Use a flashlight to make sure every single little spec of debris is cleaned from inside the gap. Changing baskets: Get an cheap $20 impact screwdriver from sears, use it to unscrew the basket. When screwing down the new basket, I used a socket and fit a drill bit inside one that fit snugged and tightened them down. Be careful not to strip the screws but they will take quite a bit of force to make sure they aren't coming back up. Put a dot of CA glue on each screw to make sure it doesn't back out. When putting the new terminals in your basket (assuming you don't have to open up the holes with a drill,) put CA glue on the underside of the terminal to where it meets up with the basket. When you put the nut on the terminal screw, put a dot of CA glue on it to make sure it won't back off the screw. Recone time: Drop the recone onto the basket with the coil inside the gap. Shims. Just use index cards and fit them inside the coil, but around the gap. Make sure you use the same number of index cards on each side an DO NOT overlap the edges. Once your shims are in, pull off the recone leaving the shims still fitted inside the coil. They can be loose, just be sure to straighten them up when it's glue time. Then you put glue on the outside edge of the spider and flip the recone upside down on the floor..surround down. When I say put glue on the outside edge of the spider, I mean it. When you flip the recone back over and put it in the basket, the glue will drip down onto the spider landing and create a nice seal. Then you put glue on the spider landing, then the surround landing Rotate the speaker so a terminal is facing you, hold the recone so the tinsel leads are towards you too. Drop the assembly down in the sub when the shims not overlapping and make sure they are still snug and tight fitting. You HAVE to make sure the tinsel leads and terminals line up. As soon as the surround touches the surround landing with the glue, you have all of about 0.1 second to fix your mistake. Push the surround down a bit with your fingers and put the surround gasket back around the edge of the basket, and push it down so it locks flat ***It can't be angled, it has to lock down. I recommend letting the gasket sit around the basket overnight just to stretch it out a hair to make it easy to get on. Hold the spiders down a bit and accelerate the spider pack Then accelerate the surround from the back side. Pinch the gasket and basket with your fingers to hold it down tightly. **Spray the accelerator before you clamp it down, the clamp, then spray more accelerator. To put on the dustcap, put it down on the cone, take a pencil and trace a line when it looked centered up. Remove the dustcap and put a bead of glue on the line you traced. Use a piece of tape and make a loop sticky side out and put it on the dustcap (creating a little handle) and then drop the dustcap onto the bead of glue nice and easily. Accelerate it as well, it won't harm or discolor the dustcap. Then put your tinsels in the blocks and solder them. Make sure you use "electrical" solder, standard solder isn't good for conducting electricity. This is actually an easy process. Watch the video, then re-read the tutorial to get a full understanding. Once again, if you make a mistake, you can't hold Fi liable, but I strongly encourage you to give it a shot. As long as your shims are snug and you put enough glue, you can't go wrong. A recone should only take you about 30 minutes to do.

Thanks man, hopefully more people read it. It's a win-win for everyone. Less time waiting on recones, and Fi can focus more on building subs rather than reconing whole ones.

I'll probably pick up the USB meter. Shizz, is there any differences in accuracy between the two or is it 100% software dependent? I know the wireless interferences cause the Bluetooth meter's floor to raise.

Mmmmm, shizzzzzzzzzzzz

I might go up one day. What day is the Iasca show? I'll probably be hanging around some of the Team Concepts guys as well.

Hopefully you checked the box "send in sub" to 'yes'. And man, I just did my first recones ever, changing my BTL 12s into 18s. It was actually very easy, I recommend you just do that and have them ship your recone to you.

Full? Alpine CDA 117 - 2 Alpine Type X Ref components for the daily listening, 2 Crescendo supertweets and 2 Crescendo PA 6.5 mids for getting loud Supertweets are on a Arc FD 2100, the components and mids are on a Arc FD 4150 Audioque 3500.1 for the 2 N2 18s Wall, ~13 cubes net at 36hz, port driver side Mechman 220A, XS D2400 and 2 Deka 9a31s That's pretty much the stuff that matters.

Didn't see this thread before... Some people can't take constructive criticism. I'd much rather run a BL than a T2, I mean after all Steve Meade used to run Fi subs and still basically runs Fi.

I read the whole thing. I'm going to go with the two BL's 12in ported box that I'm gunna have to get made. Speakers though, if I dont get them deaden and sealed when I get the install, is the bass going to distort the sound, you know what I mean!? I want some speakers that are going to be real loud so I don't just hear the damn bass. This is going to be in my trunk so is there something I can do to prevent all the rattle. Now I'm going to get a kinetic battery that I guess I can sit next to my subs so I don't kill my alternator,thats what my buddy told me to do. Amp wise I'm going to look into a 3000w amp, not sure what one though. And for my deck, probably some nice touch screen I can find online for a good price. A kenetik battery is an AGM battery... That means you have to use an AGM battery under your hood as well. For 3,000 watts, just 1 extra battery isn't going to cut it. You'll need 3 batteries and you'll see some voltage drop, or 2 batteries and a 180-200 amp HO alt and you'll see very little voltage drop. If I were you, I'd just get a single BL 15 off of a 1200-1500w amp. You'll be saving money all around then and will still be loud.

Nope, but you'll just have to wait until Slamology as a tease.

Is this your first time looking to add a substage?

It all depends how well your truck meters. Could be loud to the ear, suck on the mic, or vice versa. By the way, my new build is pretty much done, should be a good bit louder than those 2 15s.

A few of you know, Nick convinced me into doing my own recones. So I ordered them, they came in and a day later I went to work. One little thing to mention, NO ONE BETTER TAKE AWAY MY ORIGINALITY!!! Props to Fi on the black baskets, shame they won't be seen in my build but they look pretty damn sweet!

02 Camry here, possibly one of the worst metering cars out there. These are going in a wall. If it does a 150db legal sealed, it's surely because of the pink.

Pink dustcaps on the N2s.

Single run of 0 for power to front to the back is fine. Just power the amp from the back battery. Ground the rear battery to the frame assuming your car has a common ground. Just ground the amp to the rear battery. It's easy.

Can they? Absolutely. Are yours hitting 150? Most likely not.

Look's to be wayyyyy too much port area. Consider how much port displacement is inside the box, net and then that much port area? On top, they are flared too.