Aurelios

If any other info is needed I can provide as much as I can, just wanting to make sure I do it right.

Looking for some help with what to put my settings at, I understand most of them, but not all of them. Was hoping you could give your educated opinions on what to set my equipment to. The equipment I am working with is a JL 250/1 (powering two American Bass 12's), an American Pro VS1407 (powering two pairs of Planet Audio 6.5's) and a Blitz 2-way crossover (has a remote bass knob with sub gain and frequency sweep). These are all the settings available to mess with. JL 250/1 Full/Low/High LP Filter Mode/Slope - Off/12dB/24dB - 40Hz - 200Hz Bass Control Infrasonic Filter - Off/30Hz - 0dB - +15dB Amp Input Input Voltage - Low/High Signal Sensing - Off/On Single Input Level knob American Pro VS1407 1/2 Ch - HPF/Full - 50Hz - 1kHz 3/4 Ch - LPF/Full - 30Hz - 250Hz Bass Boost - On/Off Separate 1/2 Ch and 3/4 Ch Input Level knobs Blitz 2-way Crossover Single Input Level knob Subwoofer X-Over Freq - 40Hz - 400Hz Bass Boost - 0dB - +12dB Phase - Normal/Reverse Mode - Stereo/Mono Highs Freq Multiplier - x1 - 40Hz - 800Hz/x10 - 400Hz - 8kHz X-Over Freq - 40Hz - 8kHz Separate Subwoofer and High Output Level knobs

Cool, thank you everyone for all the useful information.

But no matter what it's set to it will still drop below 40 right?

If my crossover has a low pass filter that ranges from 40-400 hz, does that mean whatever I set it too is the highest frequency it will play? Also, does that mean that 40 hz is the lowest it will play?

Thanks for the info, that clears a lot of stuff up. I have been looking at the Audiopipes quite a bit, just wanted to make sure I'm putting my dough in the right place, but it does seem like my best option so far. I'm thinking that the AP1000 with two SSA DCON 12's will get me what I'm looking for and to stay well within my budget after reading everyone's helpful responses this will probably be the route I take. I do have some more questions if I may. Impious suggested putting them in the trunk and facing them into the cabin which seems like the route to take. I was looking at the optimal dual ported enclosure plans for the DCON 12's and the question is, what would the difference in sound be between putting the port on the driver side, the passenger side or possibly in the middle of the subs (which would require a re-design)?

I posted all of my information on budget, goals and everything else in previous posts.

I didn't think that there would have been much of a difference between running on two channels for the dual 12 setup or being able to run it bridged for the 18 setup. And not to diss you or Audiopipe, it seems like a viable option, but that is the only thing I have ever seen you suggest to people and I am just trying to get an idea about what all is out there. I know I have heard a lot of good things about the Cadence amps, but you seem to be one of the only ones suggesting the Audiopipe. I am just looking to get as many opinions as possible before I spend my money so I only have to do it once. Also, would it be advised to get a bigger amp? I would imagine you would want an 800 watt amp for 800 watt speakers, correct? If not, wouldn't you run the risk of blowing the speakers from running too much power?

Is building a wall the only option if you put speakers on the inside of the cabin? Would I be able to just build a box that comes out to the back of the front seats, but only goes up to the height of the rear deck? If so, I would have enough room to face the subs and port forward or up. I could still seal the trunk off from the inside if it would help, was thinking maybe I could put all the amps and stuff back there. And based on what Impious said I was looking at running a Cadence ZRS-2002 on either two SSA DCON 12's or one Fi SSD 18, both come out to about the same price and keep within the power limits mentioned for the good possibility of not having to do any major electrical upgrades while still getting what I'm looking for, any thoughts?

Thank you, the information is very helpful. I think I'll take the advice on the battery so I don't short hand my self on everything else. As far as the enclosure, if I do it in the trunk I am limited because I only have about 14" of height clearance in there, so the only thing I could put in the trunk and face towards the cabin would be 12's. Now if it would work to build the enclosure where the back seats were at inside the cabin then I could definitely fit two 15's or one 18. Question is, if that is a good idea then what would be the best way to fire the subs and the port?

Yeah, thanks. I was planning on having to do the Big 3 and also figured the battery would be a necessary upgrade. And I do plan on building my own box. Although I have read that not all speakers are made to sound good in a ported enclosure, and even though I cannot find any specs on the subs, when I emailed American Bass, they recommended that they be put in 2 cu ft sealed with 300 rms, which may not get me what I am looking for. Still interested to hear back about what Impious and everyone else thinks too.

First off, thank you for your very informative explanation, I have really been torn on what I should be listening too when it comes to this stuff. And thank you for taking the time to make sure I am doing everything right, it's greatly appreciated. 1) I currently have two American Bass 12's, one JL 12, a JL 250, an American Pro 4-ch (which stopped working recently and is being checked to see if it still works), two pairs of Planet Audio 6.5's, and I am currently running my RCA's to my iPod when my deck started acting funny. 2) My goal is to have bone rattling, take-your-breath-away bass for daily driving. 3) Now this is tricky. I have been told that even if I don't use the JL 250, that I should hold on to it in case another amp goes bad so I can still listen to my system since it is a solid amp. And I really like my American Bass because they are good, hard-to-find speakers, but I am afraid they won't get me what I'm looking for, I just hate to get rid of them. But assuming I don't need them and I don't listen to my friend, I would be willing to sell all of it. 4) I would like to stay within 800, but I guess I could go 1000 at the absolute most. 5) My vehicle is a 99 Nissan Altima. 6) Stock battery, stock alternator (I believe it's 100 amps), 0 Ga power and 4 Ga ground to the trunk from the battery, and a 5 farad Power Acoustik cap. 7) I am willing to sacrifice everything except the front seats, the whole trunk and back seats are fair game.

Well I had a setup before where I was using the American Bass and two other 12's, each set on two different amps, and it was loud, but I want that bone rattling bass and I didn't get that. So you all would probably not like to hear that the rest of the plan was to put a 18" Dayton in the trunk for the low bass and the three subs I mentioned where the back seats were at for the slightly higher bass. See the concept I am getting from everyone I know, who do have stereo's and they are loud stereos, say that I need the different speakers running different frequencies so I am not missing out on any of the music. I'm told that as long as I completely separate the 12's and the 18 it should work and I will get my low low bass and my higher punchy bass. Does this make sense to anyone else or is everything I have been told asswards backwards?

Is that just on the same amp or period?