Luke.H

It's a cool idea to get a server going for SSA people though. Should be pretty fun.

Nope, I've thought about it, but there aren't any programs I really need that won't run on OSX.

If I had a PC capable of playing I would I love the game for PS3 Its not that resource intensive, is your computer that old? My friend could play it on his average laptop from 5 years ago. I have a MacBook. The only PC I have is an ancient tower running XP I use to download movies etc. I think we got it in 2002, lol.

If I had a PC capable of playing I would I love the game for PS3

My trunk is huge. About 54 inches wide and about 18 inches tall. Does that help? Listing the trunk opening would help, that way we know what you can actually fit, unless you want to build inside the trunk. Exactly, you have to be able to get the enclosure inside the trunk first. Just take some measurements and figure out what size enclosure will fit inside given the opening etc and go from there. Choose whatever works best given your space limitations.

How large of an enclosure are you able to fit in your vehicle. That's the first question to address. If you don't have the proper airspace for 2 15" drivers you'll be better off with the one 15" ICON.

Your front stage makes me jelly

FR's have to be on axis. No exceptions that I'm aware of. I'll second that reccomendation depending on his install particulars. If you're building tweeter pods and can accomidate a large format tweeter I think that's your best bet. The lower you're able to cross your tweeter the better and generally larger tweeters are able to do this. The trade off is that (in general) a larger dome yeilds less dispersion. There's a pretty good review of some various tweeters on Zaph's website. It might be beneficial for you to read a few and nail down exactly what it is you're looking for in a tweeter.

I've noticed the same thing. Good luck finding something Matt.

What do you have in mind?

Road was closed. When it opened I left. I wasn't drinking. I tried to turn around and go another way but the highway was closed. So it was either sit in my car and wait or go inside and wait.

I didn't even think to try. I'm from a small town, half the people in there knew me or my parents. Plus, I don't think drinking before I drove up an icy hill would have been the best idea

Waiting wouldn't have been so bad if I were 21

It's the same way here. There were so many people who just gave up on the interstate and were waiting in their cars on the emergency lane.

It started to get pretty bad. I think there was 3 wrecks in the time I was in there. A salt truck slid off the road and into the creek too.

Well, I was coming home from the store and it started snowing like a motherfucker. The roads were a complete mess. I got to a hill about 3 miles from home and there was about 8 cars lined up. Someone slid off the road into a pole and blocked the way. So I backed down the hill and have been sitting in some shitty bar for 3 hours waiting for the road to be cleared. Fuck the snow.

HBD Ryan

Have you modeled them up against other 8"+ drivers designed for midbass, to see how they compare? X2 if you're going to put in the work to fabricate something like that you wanna be damn sure you're choosing optimal drivers IMO. Ok is there somewhere I can read up on what I should be looking for, or a sticky somewhere. I'm all for reading and learning. This will be my first attempt at going active. I'm going to keep the tweets in the sail panels and put 4's i think on the dash....similar to j-road. If you want you can pm me info so we dont muddle up the ihop. Use the forum, make a thread. This. If you wanted to model them up you can use Unibox or Winisd, both of which are free. To model them IB just use a box size that's at least 10x VAS.

I thought about it, so damn cheap. Did you get 1080? lcd? 60" Sharp Aquos LED, its gorgeous Those are sweet TV's.

Take the wife out for a few drinks, talk it out.

Have you modeled them up against other 8"+ drivers designed for midbass, to see how they compare? X2 if you're going to put in the work to fabricate something like that you wanna be damn sure you're choosing optimal drivers IMO.

Same. What does bother me is when borderline illiterate people people make posts. It's fuckin sad that some people can barely write using proper English HEY!! i reassemble that remark!! No, you at least put forth effort and you're good with your punctuation. You have an occasional spelling error and that's about it. You're nothing like the lazy fucks who don't even try. That's my point. It's the laziness. Expecting someone to help you with something when you're too lazy to make your question comprehensible or follow simple forum guidelines is just rude.

Same. What does bother me is when borderline illiterate people people make posts. It's fuckin sad that some people can barely write using proper English Unless English is their second language, then I respect them. I kno one language english, wut amp shud I get to push my subs? Not speaking English is one thing, but when someone who speaks English makes no effort to form a coherent sentence it pisses me off.

Same. What does bother me is when borderline illiterate people people make posts. It's fuckin sad that some people can barely write using proper English

For true midbass frequencies, having the speakers located in front of you doesn't really matter. But you would still want them as wide as possible.....under or directly behind the seats are both generally poor options. I don't see why you shouldn't be able to get performance under 120hz with them unless you are simply pushing them significantly past their output limitations. Are you playing them at an excessively loud level when they appear to start bottoming out? I am playing them at full tilt. I used a dd1 to set gains and I'm only pushing 60 watts at them. Believe they are rated for 90 iirc. Like I said im going to take the door panel off tomorrow and check to make sure that the ccf/mlv hasnt shifted and thats whats making the sound. It seems to only come out of the driver side so that is possibly the problem. About the exodus. going active wouldnt be a problem. My deck (880prs) is active capable and was actually planning on doing it sometime soon. RMS ratings for components are essentially meaningless. It'll vary depending on enclosure and frequency. Sounds like they're being pushed past their limits, I have trouble believing they can't play below 120Hz unless they're being pushed past their limits. If the Exodus is something you decide to pursue keep in mind it's not a driver well suited to a 2 way with a tweeter as any high excursion driver like that will need to be crossed fairly low. If you wanted to do a 2 way it would be possible to run it with a full ranger on axis, but I don't think it would be "loud".