Luke.H

Two completely different drivers, but the answer is essentially the same. The NS has more power handling obviously.

If your careful I guess you could but why? Depending on what it is you're trying to accomplish you may be better off running less power to those subs or choosing different subs. I assume you do realize the electrical upgrades necessary to run that kind of power.

How much power are you planning on running to it ? I'm too lazy to check and see Fi's reccomendations, but depending on your goals etc I THINK (cant really say without your goals etc) it would be ok. I don't know your available space or your tuning preferences so I can't really give a good answer. If you wanted to change it up why not just build a box. Is you current box strong enough to handle a BTL...as in is it braced and double baffled etc

What made you use fiberglass over silicone and titebond over liquidnails?

Funny I was just asking a similar question. I doubt the amp is broken though. Dbr is very good in my experience and from what I've read.

Depends if its in a trunk or not imo because if its in an SUV I would personally carpet it since it will be visible. In my trunk I just used like an enamel paint I think? Something that will keep the wood protected is the main concern

Other than the network getting hacked recently my PS3 has been perfect lol, honestly unless you're a hardcore online gamer I think the PS3 is much nicer. Cant compete with Live though

OP have you considered the US amps DCON combo offered in the ssa store? I believe that amp is fairly small and the price is really good.

Oh ok I was just wondering. It looks impressive from just a 10. Thats what a well made box will do for ya

Was that box plywood or birch?

You seem like you're doing your research and don't mind saving up for quality equipment. So I would save up for a better HU than the Jensen. Ive seen one in a friends car and honestly they're like dollar store head units. Maybe the one you've listed is better, but I doubt it. Kenwoods have Garmin Nav if your focused on that aspect. If not Alpine and Pioneer make great units. I know you said you want a nav etc but a buddy of mine has a Pioneer DEH-7200 older Premier model and its a great HU if you can find one and maybe use the savings to get a external Nav. I think it has bluetooth too. Anyhow, good luck

SSA will post an update when it is available. Dont worry.

I read on here once that aero will be slightly louder on a meter but to the ear will make no difference and I believe aero ports can take up less internal volume than a slot port. I' not 100% on this so correct me if I'm wrong

it can be... but it can also be a bad ground in the most unlikly place..... the reason i ask if its a pioneer is bcause.. they use a diod resister on the internal ground of the RCA wire... and it can blow very easly .. causeing a wine and a voltage noise..... best thing to do in that cause is to take an ipod with a mini to RCA cable.. connect stright into the amp.. if the noise is gone then its your head unit....... send it offt o be repaired.. .then when you get it back add a ground, to the back of the head unit along with the normal ground..... some people even add a ground to the RCA wrapped around all the RCA outputs. Thats good info. Thanks

Isn't that whining usually the result of a bad ground? I'd check that if it were me. Maybe you didn't remove enough paint from the spot you grounded to? Just a thought

No problem. I'm just glad to see you're doing it right. PNP kits are simple and all but blind other drivers and sacrafice output compared to stock halogens. Check out the cut off line a good retro gives. Its beautiful and being able to paint your housings to match your car really makes them look cool. The output of them is where they really become worth the time and money. I reccomend some good bulbs if you get D2S. And be sure to read about the switch from high to low getting stuck on the trs kits. Its an easy thing to fix and there's a great writeup on that forum about it. Good luck with the retro stefan and shogen if you decide to go that route.

Do you mean this??? Approximately how much are those? H1 and D2S theyre both complete kits. It is a tad expensive. I would reccomend D2S if possible just for the fact that you can purchase a higher quality bulb. Hidplanet has some info on those kits I would really really suggest you read if you are at all planning on doing a retrofit

Do you mean this??? Yupp thats exactly what I was thinking. I would recommend Morimoto and TRS actually (which is where the pic came from I see) I am saving up for a Stage III Bi-Xenon kit ftw

Are your stock headlights reflector or projector? If its reflector I would not get a PNP kit like DDM etc.....you actually get less light output because reflector housings arent meant for HIDs. Since you canceled your order I would suggest a mini retro to D2S. I would tint the tails if it were me though. I think it looks good

I saw where they changed the picture and was wondering the same thing

Like Duran said TC has gone downhill. I would take his advice. Mayhem or Xcon. Both great subs and amazing companies.

DC subs are ok. Personally I would rather have an SSA or Fi product. I considered DC when I was looking into my setup. You seem worried about your electrical, which is a good thing don't get me wrong because more often than not people are trying to push a retarded amount of power from stock electrical, but if you want to run more power such as 1000w you likely can with the addition of the big 3 and a better starter battery. Keep in mind I said LIKELY. I cant say for sure. You may need a second battery depending on your car, but if its something you want go for it just monitor your voltage and upgrade as needed. Please don''t get it twisted I'm not telling you to overwork your electrical system and damage something. You never mentioned your dimensions. As stated a ported enclosure can potentially meet your needs and if your worried about your design there are tons of ppl around the forum who offer designs. Anyway from what you mentioned a single Q or Icon would be a nice choice, you dont necessarily have to run them to their full potential. Another great option would be a pair of SA12's. The great thing about these is (assuming you have the space and dont choose the sealed option on the Q) is they can all be ported and if you dont like it go back to sealed

Box looks really good. How did you get the chevy logo relief on there

Well as long as the information is accurate thats fine with me. I'd rather you tell it like it is than sugar coat it.

Why was your write up controversial? I've been curious about this thread for awhile lol