ZMX

I'm looking for SQ? I'm confused. I'd be glad to learn why. Also, I'm an idiot and totally forgot to mention something pretty important. I already have a single JL 10" 3W3v3. Purchased before I knew any better. It's already loud and totally satisfactory. But, I'd like more. How much room for improvement is there? If you truly want solid advice give us the dimensions that you have to work with. You have already stated that you are flexible budget wise, so the next step is finding what will fit the best. I've got a box filling this same space. http://www.jlaudio.com/car-audio-stealthbox-pontiac-firebird-chevrolet-camaro-93-02 Exact measurements I'll have to get back to you on.

I'm looking for SQ? I'm confused. I'd be glad to learn why. Also, I'm an idiot and totally forgot to mention something pretty important. I already have a single JL 10" 3W3v3. Purchased before I knew any better. It's already loud and totally satisfactory. But, I'd like more. How much room for improvement is there?

I know it's pretty much all downhill from the enclosure. I've built an enclosure before and been satisfied. I just don't want to use any more space in this car.

I don't think so. My constraints are: 1. I don't want to use a lot of space. 0.6 cubic feet for each sealed box 2. I'd rather not get a larger amplifier, additional battery, etc, unless it will make a huge difference 3. I want it to hit double bass drums in rock and not sound like a muddy turd, but it doesn't have to be Godlike clarity. 80% Volume, 20% Quality. 4. I have plenty of money, but I don't want to waste it.

I haven't chosen them. I'm still trying to figure out how to even distinguish between subs when when model lineups don't actually explain anything about what niche the product is supposed to fill. I've got two 0.6 cubic foot sealed boxes to fill and install in a 2002 Pontiac Trans Am. I already have a 600w RMS Alpine amp, and I'd rather not get into running 0 gauge wire and installing a second battery unless there are huge gains to be had otherwise. Working within those constraints, what will best satisfy a want for 80% Volume, 20% Quality? Budget is only limited by the point of largely diminishing returns.

RE's website claims 88.7dB/1w/1m SPL for the 10" SEXv2, but only 84.4dB on the 15" version. 1) Wouldn't that mean that at any given power level, the 10" would be louder? 2) That sounds unreasonable, so either I'm wrong or there's a typo? http://www.reaudio.com/products/woofers_sex_v2.php

Energy over time is the definition of power.

WRXs are the ones with the weak trannies. The STI (which technically used to be a WRX STI) has a much better transmission. A much better a lot of things besides just the tranny, like turbo, differential, AWD computer, engine internals, wheels, suspension, and frame. Evos are also good. But, no clutch dropping on an Evo or STI unless you want to tear your shit apart wicked fast. That AWD grip is a beast for any transmission. Two-step clutch feathering is the way to go. You'll be hard pressed to find an Evo for 15k. Consider also: SRT4, Mazdaspeed 3, Cobalt Turbo (the quickest of the three)

He had his mechanic test it when he installed it and did the big 3. Working on it. no, he doesn't need MORE batteries. I will say he needs to get rid of the cap and the yellowtop and get a better battery. yellowtops are not good for car audio. caps are just too weak to do anything helpful in this situation. they will actually put a strain on the alt. What about the 500 amp dry cell in the back? Wouldn't it be better to just get an additional one?

The alt has been tested. Output is 150 amps at idle because of the overdrive pulley.

Remove the cap? Why? Why isn't 1550 amps enough?

If he didn't do anything, then his lights would still be dimming. He wants to fix that. btw, he's already done the big 3.

What would I do with the information of how large the voltage drop is? How would that change the attack plan?

2001 Chevy Impala. A friend's car. Aftermarket alternator rated at 220 max, 105 at idle. Overdrive pulley. Had his mechanic install the big 3 with 1/0. Optima Yellowtop 1050 amps. He only has one amp right now. 2 gauge wire running back to a JL 1000/1v2, 2 farad capacitor, and a 500 amp dry cell, running a JL 13W7. All of this was put in his car professionally... which could be good or bad. His headlights still dim, especially on the heavier individual beats. It's my understanding that the ground wires on these cars connect to a thin piece of metal that's simply folded onto another one, and therefore can't really flow that much current. ...meaning that running a dedicated ground wire would fix his problem. Yes? No?

I got curious about speakers that could handle absurd amounts of power, and I came to Google "Shocker sig neo." It led me here, and it seemed a good audio site to be a member of.