Hzd Skizzy

I really can't be sure which panel is rattling until i gut my door a little bit, but my best guess is the plastic outer panel because it just feels cheap and the noise it makes just sounds like plastic if that makes any sense. Plus i did the hand trick you said and i found a few points where I isolated some rattles. Thanks for the help. Late model Mazdas have unusual doors, similar to Minis and some VWs. The inner skin has a large plastic insert in the center to which all of the moving parts are attached. This structure has advantages and disadvantages. Any effective treatment is going to require removing the plastic piece, so learning how to do that is a very good starting point. Exactly what you do from there will depend on what you want to accomplish. My standard door treatment is vibration damper on the inner and outer skins. You have sheet metal around the edges of the inner skin that will benefit from some vibration damper. The plastic part is highly reinforced and convoluted, so there isn't much to be gained from applying vibration damper to the plastic part. Adding vibration damper to the sheet metal will make the doors sound much more substantial when opened and closed. It will also control resonance in the sheet metal and that will help a little with the rattle. My preferred door treatment is to apply vibration damper and then add a barrier between the inner skin and trim panel. There are many advantages to this approach but it isn't possible in your case because of the way the inner skin and trim panel mate. The removable plastic insert does make the outer skin easy to get to. If blocking noise from outside the car is a concern, hanging the barrier on the outer skin is really your only option. To get to the trim panel rattles, you'll want to get as much closed cell foam between the inner skin and trim panel as will fit and not interfere with the doors' operation. PM'ed.

Hello, I have a 2007 Mazda 3 with stock everything. Have yet to make a change but I'm planning on it in the future. My main problem is when i turn up the volume, my door panels rattle around a lot. This is one thing I hate about the car. The doors feel really light and cheap. Anyways, this is a stock system, no subwoofer, bass on h/u is on 0 but when i turn up the volume the speakers cause my door panels to rattle. What type of application would help stop all of this rattling? Do I just need to roll on some deadener on the door? Do I need to remount my speakers outside of the door panel? Just need a little advice to make this rattling stop. Thanks.

What it says is what it says. There are differences between the "old" X's and the "New" X's thus altering the different rms wattages.

You know there are multiple threads explaining each of these. A little before-hand research would be helpful. Get what you want. Install your crap set the gains/subsonic filter/ low pass accordingly then look at your voltage. If it is to low then upgrade from there. No need to buy a crap load of electrical upgrades when you only need a few or maybe even none. There is noone on this forum that knows exactly what you need for your electrical.

Heard terrible things on the Hifonics HFi series. Personally, I'd run the amp you have now until you get some more money to really buy a good amp. Don't rush things because you'll easily make a mistake and regret it in the end.

By inverting he means instead of the motor going in the box first and being inside the box... you mount the sub the other way where the top of the cone is in the box and the motor is showing. Ported enclosures would usually have more output, but the way it sounds between sealed/ ported is up to you. people have different preferences.

If that doesn't add mad Deebeez I honestly don't know what will

So, I just picked up an 07 Mazda 3, and if you have seen these cars... they have a b*tch of a dash. (For aftermarket head units). I have already picked out a few dash kits and such. Plus, the mazda has steering wheel controls just for the radio so it would be cool if I could keep those if there is a head unit that I could hook up to those. And if not... then that is a bummer. So basically I'm looking for a decent head unit that can possibly hook up to the steering wheel. I would like the head unit to not look "out of place" as well. Basically not look like crap. Not to worried about budget right now until i get further into it but I would like some suggestions that fit my description. thanks for any input. I was looking at one of these...Jensen... Just need some input on this brand. I won't be running speakers off the head unit. I'll have 2 amps. 1 for a sub stage and 1 for the front stage. Plus, in the description there's a link to where you can buy a wire that will let you use steering controls. Just wondering if this unit is worth the money.

Yes, It's around 2$/ft at weldingsupply.com

It was me...naahh... i'm kidding, i love SSA and Fi. Now if you did a search on SMD Forum... Different story. XD

Oh Cool! That was the exact response i was looking for. Didn't find it on sonic when i was searching earlier; maybe because it is out of stock. But thanks for the mini-review and suggestion will look into that. Any other suggestions appreciated.

Lawl. this has already been brought up. Joke. Funny though.

OH ok so i was mixing this stuff up the speakers just accept the power(which i knew). Say i gave the have an amp rated at 2500RMS watts at 2 ohms, and i wire the FI BTL dual 1 ohm in series so the speaker will get 5000RMS watts. And if i wire the FI BTL dual 2 ohm to the same amp in series it will get 2500RMS watts. I think your still getting confused between rms and ohms. The BTL is rated at 2000 Watts RMS. This means that you can give the BTL 2000 watts and be okay. (if you know what you're doing). Now, let's just say you have a Sundown Saz-2500d which is an amp that does 2500 watts at 1 ohm. To get the 2500 watts, you will need a Dual 2 ohm BTL so you can wire it to the amp for a 1 ohm load. The Dual 2 and Dual 1 BTL's have no difference other than different wiring options. By the way, when you are running this much power, you will need the electrical system to back it up.

I'm looking for someone that has or had this car, that has some input on it. I'm talking performance wise. Were there any common problems? I'm thinking about picking up one for maybe a daily system. Nothing special. I just want to know if it is reliable and some pro's and con's would be nice. Thanks for any input!

Wall.

Yeah Fi X's are nice but you can get them cheaper if you wait until black friday. There will be a sale on the old series X's for 70$ for 1 10 and 75$ for 1 12. That's too much of a deal. Plus, it's an awesome sub for 25$ under your budget.

Like Duran said, it's for different wiring options. No pros and cons. the12volt Use that link. It will show you how to wire the different subs. Like they were saying wire the subs to 1 ohm on the amp, dual 1's for 2 subs dual 2 for only one sub.

SMD's can't even take 3k lol.

Thank you very much! I will look into those.

I want to have something i can drive on the road but also have fun with on the weekend, like off-roading and such. Possibly something I could lift and put bigger tires on. Has to be v6. I'd love a v8 but it's a little rough on gas. I liked the style of the Cherokee because nothing on that vehicle is integrated that much. It was older looking and had a lot of space in the back for a build of some kind. While it is hard to find a SUV with decent gas mileage I don't want to waste too much gas.

Ah okay, thanks for the replies guys. Made my decision clear. Thanks for the links nem. Back to the searching... Anyone have any other suv suggestion for under 10,000? Not to terrible on gas, and reliable.

If you have to ask then you probably shouldn't. 3kws is a lot on a 1750rms sub.

You made two of the same threads in two different places. That isn't allowed. Pick one place.

Hey, how many more do you have

no, i thought i was going to have to but he felt bad enough and gave me money for a new sub. he knows he F'd up Dude if he gave you money for a new one change the cap and get another one! That's dishonest. Turning a small problem into a big one is unnecessary.