Hzd Skizzy

usually if you have to ask "Can I run xxxx subwoofer on xxxx power?" Then it is probably not a good idea to do so. Yes the options will raise power handling but power over the rms rating at your own risk.

Fi all the way!! Dc woofers are just old Fi technology... Im going to have to disagree with that statement. Both are great companies and neither of the companies technology is outdated or old.

I'm just here to say that you probably won't get an exact date because problems may occur just like they did for the N2's. They're re doing the whole motor on the subwoofer and sometimes not everything goes as planned and things have to get rescheduled.

Yeah the amp would "push" them. Why wouldn't it? Icon's are great subs from what i've heard but if you cant fit a ported 18" what makes you think 2 15"s would fit? To be honest, just get 1 15" so like everyone said you have space for amp and batteries and maybe even some cargo space. Just because you can fit it doesn't mean it's the best choice. 2 12's would be cool too.

That was mean?

Which means it won't be shown in this thread either.

Just because the 18 will fit doesn't mean that is the best option.

Hello, I am finishing up on my box and all I need to do is put my aeros in. I wanted to know if it would be a problem if I had an overly large sealed enclosure. I do realize the bigger the enclosure, means less power handling but better efficiency. I have 2 AA Havoc 12's on an saz-2500d. It has come to a conclusion that these I can't find a good alternator for my vehicle which basically forces me to run 4 ohm (if I have voltage problems at 1 ohm.) So I'll be running around roughly 600 watts. Which sucks. The enclosure is meant to be a 3.90ft^3 box @ 33hz. But I'm wondering since i havent made the aero holes yet, If I can just make it a temporary sealed box at around 4.20 (had to subtract out aero displacement). Thanks.

Just saying as a side note...The RE Enclosure calculator turns out to be off, by a reasonable bit. I was about to use it for my box but it turned out that it was completely off tuning wise. Anyways, usually in an suv, sub up port back will have the most output usually.

Alright thanks man. I'll keep checking back I guess and see how the progress is doing, I really would like to buy something great, and something that will last me. Thanks for the talk, really appreciate it.

x2 to what shogen said. If you haven't ordered the sub I'd get the dual 2 ohm to wire to 1 ohm. As far as the "benefit" of wiring to 1 ohm, there is no benefit other than you can find more amps that do your power at 1 ohm. You don't want to pay for a 2000 watt amp when you are only using 2 ohm at 1000 watts, unless you plan on maybe adding another Q later down the road. Different "ohm" options just give you more wiring versatility. There are no different effects in sound or anything between the 2.

Yeah I was thinking the same. But Havocs are also triple stacked like the Mayhems but I think the mayhems have thicker slugs. But either way the havoc can't be more diplacement then the mayhem, i agree. Also, thanks if you find out.

First problem i see is you said you have 2 d2 havocs wired to 1 ohm. you need 2 d1 havocs to wire to one ohm. You can only wire to .5 ohm 2 ohm and 8 ohm.

Ah yeah, i don't know why but I didn't think of that. Thanks for the info man. I haven't really ordered the aeros yet due to the fact I'm waiting on a bank transfer. It would be sealed for 2 weeks probably at most. x2, if your worried about it then add wooden blocks or something to take away some extra internal volume you dont want. Whats the displacement on those Havocs, considering getting a pair myself? Thanks I think I may throw something in there temporarily. Yeah the havocs displacement is not on the website and Nick said go with .20 just to be sure. I thought that was kind of big. If there's a way i can go measure the thing and calculate the displacement, just tell me how and I can get back to ya. Yeah the ported would be better sounding but eventually it will be ported. As far as power handling goes, i'll only have 600 on both woofers because of my new found electrical problem. It's either wait 2 weeks or play sealed then ported. right now imcontemplating just waiting.

A pretty big part id say. The thicker the wood, the less flexibility, more durability, and heavier. Thinner wood, may flex, lighter, and less durable. You don't want 1/4 panels flexing while the subs plays haha. Most people stick with 3/4 inch.

Personally I would get the Q. I like the idea that it can be both in sealed and ported applications and the BL is ported only. I also like the idea of having a sound quality based woofer. That's why I got AA Havocs. As far as just a daily driver goes, personally i'd take the fully loaded Q. If I was chasing numbers, this would be a different story.

Well this sucks. I guess I'll just hold off. I'll wait for you guys to make something. I'll see if i can run my amp at 1 ohm and hope it may not get too low, but I am sure it will, even driving normally. If it goes to low I'll switch to 4 ohm which is only 600 watts but I guess it will just have to do. Thanks for informing me though. I now have a rough understanding of what is going on. But you say you may have an alternator for mazdas within the year? If so, do you have a general time frame?

Wow wow wow... Hold on here... If your (supposedly) getting an alternator with adjustable voltage, get used to driving around with your check engine light on... You absolutely, 1000% cannot bypass this system on a Mazda, there is NO way to do it without a LOT of very highly technical work, that would have to be done by an OEM level engineer.. On your car, half of the regulator is in the alternator, half is in the PCM. More precisely, your actual "Field switch" is in the alternator, your "field controller" is in the PCM and it runs via a 400hz PWM between the PCM and alternator. If the Field switch isn't communicating to the PCM, it is insta CEL. Next, since iirc it's also part of emissions system on your car, and therefore falls under the Federal Emission regulations, it's technically illegal (to the letter of the law no matter how ridiculous it is)... I could go on, but I think you get the point... Against my own better judgement, this is one of the times where I'm going to call somebody stupid, and it's not you... Your problem on your car with the 2.0, is your alternator has more mounting points than you can shake a stick at (5), they are all tangential to the mounting surface, they ALL bolt to the block.. So, not only do you have to get passed the mounting issue, Mazda is the ONLY OEM who uses this system, and Mitsubishi is the ONLY manufacturer that supplies Mazda.. Needless to say, your car, is in the top 3 biggest pains in my but because of this... There is just no good solution that I've found, yet.... Sorry to rant, but this just touched a big nerve because it never ceases to amaze me at the lack of knowledge by some people (again, not you).... Wow, seriously i would of had NO idea. I'm just your average consumer. Are you saying I should not get the 200amp alt at all? I mean just by you saying this im not getting the adjustable voltage. Either way I need a high output alternator, I'm running 2,500 watts of extra power and I don't think my stock electrical will like this. Now I need advice on what I should do. My system rests at 14.0-.1 car on. I just want to have that 14.5-14.9 that seems like everyone else has. Now that I see I can't do that then I just care about having the power to make the power. I'm glad you told me about this so i didn't blow my money away. What do you think I should do power wise? I'm kind of back in a dead lock. I didn't mean to make you mad, I don't have much of an idea, I guess I just trusted something I shouldn't of.

This would be better in the fabrication section but, usually you'll have more output subs up port back in an suv.

Okay thanks for letting me know. The only place that has an alternator for me is Excessive Amperage and i'm getting an adjustable voltage with it. I wanted to inquire about yours because while EA doesn't get very good reviews and I don't know much about them and DC gets good reviews and I know a little more, I wouldn't mind maybe paying a little more for something that is made with a little more quality from you guys. Let me know how your research goes man.

= blown sub. I doubt you'll hear a difference between 1000 and 1700 anyways. Usually takes double the power to make an audible difference. By the way, 4 cubes ported seems a bit small for 2 15s. For me, I'd go 7-8 cubes ported for 2 15's. Sa-15s will blow kickers away if you install them correctly. I would suggest just getting 2 sa-15s. An sax-1200d or saz-1500dv.2 and it will be plenty loud.

With just a mere use of the search function you could have come up with this.

for 2 BLs id go for 4.0 cubic foot and low tuned like 30-32hz.

Cameras make the sub look "wavy". FPS on the cam cant keep up. It does the same thing when the guys points the cam at the side mirror. To the very low excursion thing.. he must of accidently wired it for less power or just doesn't have over like 300 watts lol.

Honestly with that power, i would just get maybe a BL 15 or 2 SSDs maybe. But from your very vague question, for me it would be 2 BL's because the cone area is doubled and thus be louder and you have more coils to dissipate heat and be more efficient.