Hzd Skizzy

He needs to know your max dimensions or he could make a box that doesn't fit someway and that would be on you. Go out to your car with a tape measure measure the Width (side to side) Depth (Front to back) Height (bottom to top). Until then, I don't think he can help you.

Big Dog Line-X. Did my tint for 160$ on a 4 door sedan. No bubbles no streaks. Tint was legal limit 35%. Brother got his Nissan xterra 4 doors done in 35% and the rear window in like 15% i do believe. All for just under 200$ Once again, no problems there either. It looks like a shotty place from the looks and how they run, but dont judge a book by its cover, they do a great job and get it done. They are in the Charlotte/Pineville area.

Because of the title, I thought this was going to be one of those "I haven't gotten my Q in 3 weeks" type of thread haha. Happy Birthday Nick!!

Be aware that every setup is different and just because this dude ran 2k to a Q doesn't offer the suggestion that anyone can do it. Also, the cooling package raises the thermal capacity of the subwoofer and not the mechanical capacity. So heat may not be a problem but over excursion could be pushing the mechanical limits.

Nope you get 2 D2 Dcons and wire them to 4 ohms. When you bring the two subs together they will drop down to a 2 ohm load. I don't think they make D2 Dcons, according to the store, but get 2 S4, "Single 4 ohm" Dcons and when you wire them together it will make a 2 ohm load. This is the diagram of how to wire the 2 S4 subs.

Keep in mind that he has 2 D2 subs so he has to wire to 2 ohm or .5 ohm which will not be anyones recommendation. So the amp has to supply the power he wants (which the OP did not state) at 2 ohm. New question: How much power do you want to have? You can push a BTL with 500 watts or 20,000 watts.

Sweet, so how are you gonna set this up? Got a design yet? Looking forward to seeing this setup.

550w @ 20hz is the rms on the website, I'd stick to the recommended specifications. Remember, ib3's are infinite baffle subwoofers. Not designed to be thrown into a standard enclosure.

BL's are for ported applications. Your probably going to need to use aero ports because they take up much less displacement than a regular slot port does. those dimensions alone with .75 wood will give you about 5.8 cuft. But thats not even with subs and aero displacements. You could always send it back and pay for a recone, and recone it to 15". That way you will have space.

Yeah maybe.

I love the songs where you would have no idea it would have large amounts of bass like Lento, then its just like BOOOM.

Did you make sure you were pushing down on the dead center of the cone? If you push on the sides, it will definitely rub.

yeah, mine did.

You know a good person to talk to is Bromo. That is his username on the forum. He does "Eclectic Enclosure Designs". He gives a whole spreadsheet of the design, volume, tuning, displacements, dowel bracing (if added), and cut sheet. Really helpful if you're planning to build your own box.

Is it on the list?

Alpine mrp-1000 puts out 1000 @ 2ohm. But just because you have a sub that can take 1000 watts, doesn't mean it has to be. Keep your electrical in mind. You'd be wasting money on a capacitor. Do the big 3 and get a better battery up front. SSA is having a 15% off all XS power batteries in the store plus shipping is 24.99 flat on all batteries. Go as big as you can on the battery up front.

Honestly like stated above, it's worth the wait. Do something else to progress your build. For example, sound deadening, wire your amp, do the big 3, upgrade your speakers, replace the head unit, make your box, or have someone make it for you if you don't have the proper tools. Then, when you have your sub all you have to do is throw the sucker in and have fun. Fi is going all american with the steel now I believe, if they were to get it from across the sea, then theyd be rolling these things out like theres no tomorrow (literally, the world ends tomorrow haha). Sometimes you got to be patient for great products by great people.

Broad Questions=Broad Answers

If you plan on upgrading power in the future then the ssd. May have to wait for the SSD's though. Still coming out with the new neo ones. That is if your buying new. SSD's will obviously be a little more expensive as well. No such thing as under powering a subwoofer. Good Luck with your choice.

When this was happening, text was smaller after his posts on my laptop but on my desktop everything was normal. Both use IE.

I gots a kicker l5 12" it got the sq you be looking for.

Hello I have a 2007 Mazda 3. It is a 4 cylinder 2.0 liter engine. I will be running an saz-2500d and another speaker amp so probably 2800 watts total just in car audio. I just want an alt that can support that without spending too much money. Hopefully best bang for my buck under 400$?

Is there an email i could have that we could further this conversation in?

if you are going to recone to d1 then the amps listed above are great. But like rodney said, you can keep it d2 and get that amp. It all depends on how much your willing to spend. In a car, you sure you can properly fit 2 15's without a wall? If your sure you can, you can either go subs back port back or subs front port front and seal it off from the trunk. Usually the 2nd one yields more output but more work will be involved.

Hey, I was wondering if I could buy one of these units?